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CAT D5M FTC HARSH STEERING. 22.5 VOLTS AT STEERING SOLENOIDS,

CAT D5M FTC HARSH STEERING...
CAT D5M FTC HARSH STEERING. 22.5 VOLTS AT STEERING SOLENOIDS, 4.5 WHEN DEPRESSED. COULD BRAKE BE ENGAGING BEFORE CLUTCH. FTC MODULATION GOES FROM 22.5 VOLTS TO 4.5 RIGHT A BRAKE ENGAGEMENT WITH NO IN BETWEEN. BRAKES HIT REAL HARD WHEN ENGAGED, NOT SMOOTH AT ALL, HOW CAN FIX THIS
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Answered in 1 minute by:
6/23/2012
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
catmastertech
catmastertech, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 3,970
Experience: Field service technician for CAT 19 years.
Verified

catmastertech :

Perform the brake touch-up calibration.


 

catmastertech :

Are you still there?


 

catmastertech :

Have you posted this question before?


 

catmastertech :

Do you have the 4C8195 service control box?


 

catmastertech :

Full Size Image


 

catmastertech :

I am having connection problems too. I will use either but, Q&A is working better for me.

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Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Does this help with your connection?
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Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Here is how to view the modes using the monitor.
Access data using the monitor
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Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
If you have the tool or make one, here is the procedure to follow;
Brake touch-up calibrations.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
no on clicker box, ordering on monday. yes i have service manual, my concern is when i unplugged sterring solenoids and checked voltages there was no modualtion, 22.5 volts untouched and 4.5 depressed to brake with no variation in between. seems there is no way to feather clutch like this. its either on or off. are you daying that can be calibrated with the box or is there something wrong with my steering controls.
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
If you have an electrical problem, the ecm should log a fault code.
Brake slamming is common when a new operator is on this type control for this first time. I usually tell them it is normal and they will need to adapt to the tractor.
If they still want it smoother, I perform the brake adjustments.
If you feel the brakes are not working correctly, follow the pressure setting procedures in the manual for the brakes. Test other pressures for priority and steering.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
i forgot to mention that when you press service brake it does the same hard slap. sounds like its coming apart
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Oh?, that would be entirely different.
Do you have any fault codes?
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
(NNN) NNN-NNNN08 is only code that has serv code beside code
temp sensor
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago

Yes, that is the engine temperature sensor.

Some codes will not show as active unless the fault is currently present.

Please list all the codes stored in the order they scroll past. This could relate to other problems I have seen.

How many hours are on the tractor?

Have the brakes or steering clutches are been rebuilt?

How is the shifting of the transmission? Has it ever been calibrated?

Have you checked any pressures on the transmission or brakes and steering?

Are the tracks tight? Could the noise be from the tracks slapping the final drive sprocket?

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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
3400 hours, not sure about brakes and steering clutches, transmission seems to shift ok-except it will not shift into 2nd gear. that just started. has not been calibrated since we owned dozer. have not checked any pressures, tracks are adjusted to 1.5 inches
codes

030 0096 03

030 0110 08 serv code

030 0263 03

030 0271 06

030 0324 06

030 0819 02

030 0821 04

113 0168 04

113 0117 04

113 0618 02

113 0622 02

113 0673 02

113 0674 02

113 0675 02

113 0689 05

113 0691 05

113 0691 07

113 0692 05

would like to check pressures but not sure where test ports are
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
OK, Wow it does have allot of codes!
I will review them and post something back later.
The transmission test port are inside the transmission for performing the fill and pressure calibrations. Steering and brake taps are on the steering and brake valve. (obvious?)
The Priority is either on the priority valve or next to the filter. A check and easy check for some transmission pressures can be done at the transmission filter.
Follow the calibrations section to find all the test ports.
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Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
To check for modulation of the steering and the brakes, use pressure gauges on each port and you will know for certain how much control the lever is sending out in response to input. The 4C8195 control box can display a value on the monitor for each sensor. This may help if you still feel it is electrical.
Your don't have any logged codes for park brake or secondary brake solenoids. This would be you brake pedal control, this seems to be normal. That leads me to believe the problem is the brake hydraulic system. I would do the testing for the steering and the brakes to see what is loosing pressure. Low pressure would make the brakes drag and lock up easily when any slight input is made.
By the way, always remember, the steering clutches have pressure to engage them. The brakes are pressure released and spring applied. Low pressure cannot hold the springs released. If this has been happening, the oil should be overheating and/or the tractor would loose power (brakes dragging).
If you find you need more help, feel free to contact me again and I will be glad to help.
catmastertech
catmastertech, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 3,970
Experience: Field service technician for CAT 19 years.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
what are the pressures for brake and steering. is 200 to 0 correct. also this is my first time using just answer, so i want to start another topic with you. what is the best route fot this. Thanks for your help. Derek
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
You can continue on this question or start a new question and just say it is for me at the beginning, I will see it and respond as soon as I am back online. I usually work late nights here and try to answer as much as I can before midnight est.
Here is the pressure chart for your machine.

Pressure Charts for the Transmission, Steering and Brake System

 

Table 1
Power Train Oil System
Machine Condition: Brakes On Brakes Off Brakes Off
Actuating Control: Parking Brake

Test Location
ER1 Engine Speed (RPM) 850 ± 30 (1) 850 ± 30 (1) 2340 ± 30
Transmission Gear Neutral Neutral Neutral
Power Train Oil Type (Weight) SAE 30 SAE 30 SAE 30
Q1 Power Train Oil Temperature 75 ± 5°C (167 ± 9°F)
75 ± 5°C (167 ± 9°F)

75 ± 5°C (167 ± 9°F)
B1 Left Hand Brake Pressure 0
2600 kPa (377 psi) Minimum

2600 kPa (377 psi) Minimum
C1 Left Hand Clutch Pressure
2140 ± 150 kPa (310 ± 22 psi)

2140 ± 150 kPa (310 ± 22 psi)

2240 ± 150 kPa (325 ± 22 psi)
B2 Right Hand Brake Pressure 0
2600 kPa (377 psi) Minimum

2600 kPa (377 psi) Minimum
C2 Right Hand Clutch Pressure
2140 ± 150 kPa (310 ± 22 psi)

2140 ± 150 kPa (310 ± 22 psi)

2240 ± 150 kPa (325 ± 22 psi)
P Transmission Main Relief Valve
2925 ± 100 kPa (424 ± 15 psi)

2925 ± 100 kPa (424 ± 15 psi)

3100 ± 150 kPa (450 ± 22 psi)
PV Priority Valve Pressure (2)
950 kPa (138 psi) Maximum

2925 ± 100 kPa (424 ± 15 psi)

950 kPa (138 psi) Maximum
M Torque Converter Inlet Pressure N/A N/A
610 ± 70 kPa (88 ± 10 psi)
N Torque Converter Outlet Pressure N/A N/A
470 ± 70 kPa (68 ± 10 psi)
L1 Transmission Lube Pressure
12 kPa (2 psi) Maximum

12 kPa (2 psi) Maximum

200 ± 30 kPa (29 ± 4 psi)
LB1 Left Hand Clutch/Brake Lube Pressure N/A N/A
100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)
LB2 Right Hand Clutch/Brake Lube Pressure N/A N/A
100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)
( 1 ) LOW IDLE
( 2 ) The priority valve regulates the flow at high pressure under any of these conditions: (a) the engine speed is less than 1300 rpm. (b) The transmission speed or direction is changed. (c) The power train oil temperature in sump (Q1) is less than 40°C (104°F). The valve remains at low pressure when the parking brake is engaged.
Table 2
Power Train Oil System
Machine Condition: Left Brake On Right Brake On Both Brakes On
Actuating Condition: Hand Control Hand Control Foot Control
Test Location
ER1 Engine Speed (RPM) 2340 ± 30 2340 ± 30 2340 ± 30
Transmission Gear Neutral Neutral Neutral
Power Train Oil Type (Weight) SAE 30 SAE 30 SAE 30
Q1 Power Train Oil Temperature
75 ± 5°C (167 ± 9°F)

75 ± 5°C (167 ± 9°F)

75 ± 5°C (167 ± 9°F)
B1 Left Hand Brake Pressure
325 kPa (47 psi)
Maximum

2600 kPa (377 psi) Minimum
0
C1 Left Hand Clutch Pressure 0
2240 ± 150 kPa (325 ± 22 psi)

2240 ± 150 kPa (325 ± 22 psi)
B2 Right Hand Brake Pressure
2600 kPa (377 psi) Minimum

325 kPa (47 psi)
Maximum
0
C2 Right Hand Clutch Pressure
2240 ± 150 kPa (325 ± 22 psi)
0
2240 ± 150 kPa (325 ± 22 psi)
P Transmission Main Relief Valve
3100 ± 150 kPa (450 ± 22 psi)

3100 ± 150 kPa (450 ± 22 psi)

3100 ± 150 kPa (450 ± 22 psi)
PV Priority Valve Pressure (2)
950 kPa (138 psi)
Maximum

950 kPa (138 psi)
Maximum

950 kPa (138 psi)
Maximum
M Torque Converter Inlet Pressure
610 ± 70 kPa (88 ± 10 psi)

610 ± 70 kPa (88 ± 10 psi)

610 ± 70 kPa (88 ± 10 psi)
N Torque Converter Outlet Pressure
470 ± 70 kPa (68 ± 10 psi)

470 ± 70 kPa (68 ± 10 psi)

470 ± 70 kPa (68 ± 10 psi)
L1 Transmission Lube Pressure
200 ± 30 kPa (29 ± 4 psi)

200 ± 30 kPa (29 ± 4 psi)

200 ± 30 kPa (29 ± 4 psi)
LB1 Left hand Clutch and Brake Lubrication
100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)

100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)

100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)
LB2 Right Hand Clutch and Brake Lubrication
100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)

100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)

100 ± 25 kPa (15 ± 4 psi)
( 2 ) The priority valve regulates the flow at high pressure under any of these conditions: (a) the engine speed is less than 1300 rpm. (b) The transmission speed or direction is changed. (c) The power train oil temperature in sump (Q1) is less than 40°C (104°F). The valve remains at low pressure when the parking brake is engaged.
377psi is the minumum before the brake may apply.

Thanks for the accept and the bonus! I will be looking forward to your questions.
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Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
How did the testing and adjusting go?
Did you have any fault codes concerning the brakes?
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
tested steering clutch high pressure today right and left-both 325 range, not sure where to put gauge for low pressure steering clutch. Also when i put gauge on low pressure steering brake i got nothing on right and left. book says 7psi +-5.
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
All steering pressures are recorded from the steering port on the valve.
All brake pressures are recorded from the brake ports on the same valve.
Only the lube pressure is tested out on the housing.
Can you send me more details of the test you are trying to perform?
Did you do the brake touch-up calibration? How did it work, could you tell a difference? If not re-calibrate again but, make sure tracks are clean and idlers are not dragging the speed down. I like to do this with the machine raised off the ground. It is not very accurate when tracking on the ground unless the road is very flat and hard.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
are you saying there is only one test port on each solenoid and high and low presure can be checked on same steering clutch valve, if so how do i do this. I checked high pressure on steering clutch and i chanced submode on box to 8 for low pressure and pressure stayed at 325. i want to check low pressure on steering clutch. I also want to check low pressure on steering brakes-how do i get a accurate reading. when i checked earlier i got nothing for either steering brakes. do i need to depress ftc for any of these tests
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
I don't remember a low pressure setting for steering, only low pressure for brakes. I think you were on the wrong tap.
Steering clutches are pressurized to drive the tractor, pressure is dropped to allow gradual turn. Brake clutch is spring applied and pressure releases the clutch to allow the machine to move. Spring force on the clutch is the parking brake.
When the lever is squeezed, the steering pressure will gradually drop to zero, this must happen at the center detent of the lever. At the center detent as you continue to pull the lever in the brake pressure that is hold the springs back is gradually dropped and the brake clutch will begin to grab. The low pressure is maintained to improve the response of the brakes as you release the lever and the brake pressure rises. the brake springs will be forced back the brake will release. As the lever moves back out past the center detent, the steering clutch pressure will begin to increase and the clutch will begin to drive again.
To see this in operation, install gauges on all four ports. Squeeze both levers at the same time. You will see steering pressure drop, then brake pressure drop.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
at half way depresses on ftc should the clutch pressure be 0 before brake engages. could the brake be engaging before clutch is releasing. very hard direction change and it is happening before ftc control meets resistance at halfway. also do i need to check pressures at 850 rpm or 2350
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
At half way point (detent) steering clutch pressure must be 0 psi.
Brake pressure will be full pressure (brake released).
As you continue to pull the FTC lever inward, brake pressure will fall and the brake will apply. (for hard turn, brake turn)
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Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
You can check pressure at both speeds. Low pressure at low speed could indicate leakage if pressure is normal at high idle.
Brake should not engage until brake pressure falls below 250 psi on average. Your tractor could be different.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
ok tested steering clutch to detent both go to 0. brake pressure 375 at detent, then as depressed it plunges to 280, from 280 to zero seems good. Is that initail jump normal. The initial release of the break is where the problem is. Will a brake touch up help
Customer reply replied 10 years ago
The last test brings up another question. The steering clutch pressures moved up and down with infinite control but when operation dozer i dont have the same infinite control. turns only when lever gets real close to engaging brake. what to do
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
I have not done this recently so, I can't say for certain how much it drops at first movement. I do seem to remember a quick drop then the slow drain.
Yes, touch up pressure is the main calibration to improve fine control. You will likely need to do this several times to get the feel you want from the brakes.
It is normal for the tractor to not turn when you only release the steering clutch, you need a load on the blade to force the machine to turn or you will need to pull in the brake to assist the turn or reduce the turning distance.
If machine still does not want to operate correctly, perform all the steering and brake pressure tests. If all are normal, perform all the steering and brake calibrations.
Lubrication pressure do not effect controls and do not need to be of concern. It is mainly when you have a heat or wear problem you need to know the lube pressure.
NOTE: transmission shifting problems are not the same problem. If it slams when you shift, steering and brakes are not usually an issue. Perform shift fill time calibration if that is the issue or if the transmission has over 5000 hours since the last fill time calibration.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
brake touch up did the trick --much much smoother, raised both numbers 9 and 10. any danger of raising to high. Glad to have that fixed, thanks for you help. next 1st gear f and r not engaging. can speed be adjusted at a set rpm. 1st gear seem a little fast at high rpm when pushing and grading. Do i need to calibrate transmision clutch pressures and fill.
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago

If no changes have been made to the transmission valves or pump, just run the fill calibration. The trick here is to hold down the engine RPM. The book says to set it at full throttle, the ecm will cut off the calibration if throttle falls below 1600 RPM. I set the throttle around 1750 to 1800 rpm. Make sure all other controls are off, lights, a/c or heater fans, nothing that could add a load to the engine. This will give a better shift control than at full throttle. It brings the calibration set down to were you would decelerate before shifting.

That should make forward to reverse directional shifts slip in comfortably and stop the transmission banging. Speeds shifts are always harder, this is normal. Just try not to make two speed changes in less than three seconds. the pump needs time to refill the chambers to make the next shift. If you shift before three seconds, it may slam as pressure spikes to the clutch.

Glad things are going well, let me know if you have more trouble.

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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
how do i fix 1st gear f and r. will fill do that
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago

What do you mean by "too fast" ?

The only change you can make to the travel speed of the tractor is by the throttle or shifting the gears.

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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
i was afraid of that. tractor will not move in 1st gear for or rev, Thats why i was asking if i need to check pressure on clutch 5 or calibration fill. What should i do to fix i was afraid of that. tractor will not move in 1st gear for or rev, Thats why i was asking if i need to check pressure on clutch 5 or calibration fill. What should i do to fix. also will not stay in 3 gear, always shifts down even on flat ground
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Ok, I will try this answer again, just had something hiccup and lost all my work.
Yes, check pressure to clutch 5. If it is low when cold and very low when hot, the clutch may have failed from wear.
If pressure does not even try to show on the gauge, replace the solenoid and manifold assembly. I never replace the solenoid alone. You can swap the swap the assemblies around but, pressure calibration must be done before you can perform fill calibration.
Make sure you don't have any active or logged codes for that clutch. If you do, follow the troubleshooting guide for that code.
Is the auto-down shift on?
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Not sure how to turn auto downshift on or off. It always has shifted from 3 gear back to 2 within a few seconds. It won't stay in 3. Occasionally it will do same from 2 to 1. Any ideas?
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
You should have a button on the dash to switch it off. Do you ha e a light on the dash?
catmastertech
catmastertech, Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 3,970
Experience: Field service technician for CAT 19 years.
Verified
catmastertech and 87 other Construction and Road Equipment Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Auto kick down was on. It will operate in 3 gear now. I still missing a gear in forward and reverse. I don't understand the concept of autokickdown, will you explain application. Tractor runs in 1st gear and 2nd gear with no speed change, how can this happen? Where are the transmission clutch solenoids--under seat maybe? Transmission light flashing also
Customer reply replied 10 years ago
1
Customer reply replied 10 years ago
I was wondering if you got my last question. Noticed you have been online a few times but I see no response yet. You have been very helpful thus far. I accepted and left tip. Do I need to start another question page or continue with same one?
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Ok, sorry for the delay. Had to go out of town for the day.
Auto-kickdown is to help prevent overheating of the transmission oil by the operator using a gear that is too high. It sees the high load when the transmission and engine speeds drop below the preset limit and will automatically downshift one gear. If speeds do not return to the normal range, it will drop down to first.
This feature is best used with the 1-2 or 2-2 speed select button. If you are working a stock pile and most of your work is pushing a light load to the pile and then carry the pile up the slope, this feature will do the shifting for you and prevent overloading the transmission. This feature will NOT upshift the transmission.
When the 1-2 light is on the transmission will select 1 forward and 2 for reverse for every direction change. 2-2 will select 2nd every direction change. 2-1 (if equipped) will select 2 for forward and 1 for reverse.
So, when you carry a small load to the pile in 2nd, and you hit the pile, the transmission downshifts to 1st and you keep moving the larger pile. If you have selected 2-2 and make your shift to reverse, the transmission will go back up to 2nd without you pushing the speed button. Shift into forward and it will be in 2nd gear even if it downshifted while backing up. This feature will NOT upshift, only downshift. You can manually upshift at anytime but, when the load is too high, it will downshift again.
I hope this is not making it more confusing, the book is not very descriptive about the feature.
To access the transmission solenoids, you must remove the cover on the back of the transmission (not the small cover, this is winch drive). It is a tight hole on a D5M, you can get to the manifolds but be careful. You can drop stuff easily into the transmission.
You can find good details in the system operation section of the manual.
When did this light start flashing? Have you checked for an active code while the light is flashing? You may need to repeat the operation that caused the light to come on to see the active code. Let me know what the new code is and we can find this problem too.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Thanks for explaining auto-kick down. No active codes except motor temp sensor. What are steps to resolving missing gear and if it's 1st or 2 nd gear?
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
I don't under stand how the transmission can not go into a gear and not have a code. I have never seen this before. I am assuming it would at least have the 695.07 code for no mechanical response from the 1st speed clutch (clutch 5) if it is not working in either direction.
I am guessing this is the closest related problem so, I would suggest follow the testing guide for that code.
MID 113 - CID 0695 - FMI 07

graphic


Schematic for the Modulating Valve for Speed 1 (Number 5)

Conditions Which Generate This Code:

This diagnostic code is for the Modulating Valve for Speed 1 (Number 5).

See Systems Operation, "Solenoid Valves" for help with the identification of the locations of the solenoids.

This diagnostic code is recorded when there is a speed difference between two transmission components.

System Response:

The components of the transmission should be locked by the clutch that corresponds to the recorded CID.

Test Step 1. CHECK FOR OTHER RECORDED DIAGNOSTIC CODES.


View the log of the diagnostic codes. Check for recently logged diagnostic codes for speed sensors.
Expected Result:

There are other diagnostic codes that are active, or there are recently logged diagnostic codes for speed sensors.

Results:


YES - There are other diagnostic codes that are active, or there are recently logged diagnostic codes for speed sensors.
Repair: Other diagnostic codes may indicate the reason for the speed difference between the transmission components that corresponds to the diagnostic codes. Exit this test procedure and perform the procedure for the diagnostic codes that are active or logged. The diagnostic codes for the speed sensor are listed: CID 0671 FMI 02, CID 0672 FMI 02, CID 0673 FMI 02, CID 0674 FMI 02 and CID 0675 FMI 02. Operate the machine. If the CID 0695 FMI 07 is still present, return to the test procedure for CID 0695 FMI 07.

Stop.


NO - There are not other diagnostic codes that are active. There are no logged diagnostic codes for speed sensors. Proceed to Test Step 2.
Test Step 2. CHECK THE SUPPLY PRESSURE.


Check the supply pressure to the transmission modulating valves. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.
Expected Result:

The supply pressure to the transmission modulating valves is correct.

Results:


YES - The supply pressure to the transmission modulating valves is correct. Proceed to Test Step 4.

NO - The supply pressure to the transmission modulating valves is not correct. Proceed to Test Step 3.
Test Step 3. RECHECK THE SUPPLY PRESSURE.


Repair the cause of the incorrect supply pressure to the transmission modulating valves. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.

Operate the machine.

Stop the machine and place the parking brake switch in the ON position.

Determine if CID 0695 FMI 07 is present.
Expected Result:

CID 0695 FMI 07 is present.

Results:


YES - CID 0695 FMI 07 is present. Proceed to Test Step 4.

NO - CID 0695 FMI 07 is not present.
Repair: Resume normal machine operation.

Stop.

Test Step 4. CHECK THE CLUTCH PRESSURE.


Check the pressure to the reverse clutch. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.
Expected Result:

The pressure for the reverse clutch is correct when the machine is in forward or reverse.

Results:


YES - The pressure for the reverse clutch is correct when the machine is in forward or reverse. Proceed to Test Step 6.

NO - The pressure for the reverse clutch is not correct when the machine is in forward or reverse. The pressure for the reverse clutch is incorrect. Proceed to Test Step 5.
Test Step 5. CHECK THE CLUTCH PRESSURE.


Repair the cause of the incorrect reverse clutch pressure. R Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.

Operate the machine.

Stop the machine and place the parking brake switch in the ON position.

Determine if CID 0695 FMI 07 is present .
Expected Result:

CID 0695 FMI 07 is still active.

Results:


YES - CID 0695 FMI 07 is still active. Proceed to Test Step 6.

NO - CID 0695 FMI 07 is not still active.
Repair: Resume normal machine operation.

Stop.

Test Step 6. CHECK THE PRESSURE OF THE PRIORITY VALVE.


Check the pressure of the priority valve. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.
Expected Result:

The pressure of the priority valve is correct.

Results:


YES - The pressure of the priority valve is correct. Proceed to Test Step 8.

NO - The pressure of the priority valve is not correct. Proceed to Test Step 7.
Test Step 7. RECHECK THE PRESSURE OF THE PRIORITY VALVE.


Repair the cause of the incorrect priority valve pressure. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.

Operate the machine.

Stop the machine and place the parking brake switch in the ON position.

Determine if CID 0695 FMI 07 is present.
Expected Result:

CID 0695 FMI 07 is present.

Results:


YES - CID 0695 FMI 07 is present. Proceed to Test Step 8.

NO - CID 0695 FMI 07 is not present.
Repair: Resume normal machine operation.

Stop.

Test Step 8. CHECK THE MODULATING VALVE.


Check the modulating valve. If there is not a problem with the electrical wiring, the sensor, or the priority valve, check the modulating valve of the solenoid. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.
Expected Result:

The modulating valve is correct.

Results:


YES - The modulating valve is correct. Proceed to Test Step 10.

NO - The modulating valve is not correct. Proceed to Test Step 9.
Test Step 9. RECHECK THE MODULATING VALVE.


Repair the cause of the incorrect modulating valve. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting manual for the power train of the machine that is being serviced.

Operate the machine.

Stop the machine. Place the parking brake switch in the ON position.

Determine if the CID 0695 FMI 07 is present.
Expected Result:

CID 0695 FMI 07 is still active.

Results:


YES - CID 0695 FMI 07 is still active. Proceed to Test Step 10.

NO - CID 0695 FMI 07 is not still active.
Repair: Resume normal machine operation.

Stop.

Test Step 10. CHECK THE SOLENOID.


Exchange the solenoid valve with a known good solenoid valve of a different clutch.
Expected Result:

The low pressure stays with the original clutch.

Results:


YES - The low pressure stays with the original clutch. Proceed to Test Step 11.

NO - Low pressure moves with the solenoid valve to the new clutch.
Repair: Replace the solenoid valve. Recalibrate the solenoid. See Testing and Adjusting, "Calibration".

Stop.

Test Step 11. CHECK THE CURRENT OF THE SOLENOID.


Turn the disconnect switch and the keyswitch to the ON position. DO NOT START THE ENGINE.

Place the transmission in the gear that uses the solenoid valve.

Place the parking brake in the OFF position.

Measure the current to the solenoid valve.
Expected Result:

The current is at least 0.57 amperes.

Results:


YES - The current is at least 0.57 amperes.
Repair: The current is correct. There may be a problem in the transmission.

Stop.


NO - The current is not at least 0.57 amperes.
Repair: Perform CID 0695 FMI 07 again. Exit this procedure and perform the diagnostic code procedure again. If the problem persists, the ECM may have failed. Prior to replacing an ECM, always contact your dealership's Technical Communicator for possible consultation with Caterpillar. This consultation may greatly reduce repair time. See the Testing and Adjusting, "Electronic Control Module (ECM) - Replace".

Stop.



Let me know what you find. I am always glad to help.
This post is getting long, a new post would be easier to search.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Last post a little overwhelming-will take a while. To clarify the gear problem, the tractor moves in all gears forward and reverse, but there is no speed change between 1st and 2nd. The tractor never stops while changing between 1 and 2---stay at constant speed. It switches gears on display but stays at same speed for gears 1 and 2. 3rd gear will speed up. It's like it shows having 3 gears on display but only has 2 actual speeds. Does this change tests I need to do or continue with previous post.
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Wow this tractor gets weirder by the minute! I completely misunderstood your question.
I would suggest opening the rear cover and connect to the test ports on all the solenoids. Mark out a list to indicate which clutches are responding (1 thru 5) and what pressure each port has then, post it here.
You may have heard it before but, this is the first time I have heard of this problem. It caught me totally out in left field. Please ignore the previous post and accept my apologies. I will try to ask better questions next time!
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Will test solenoids and post pressures tom.
Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
Ok, thanks for understanding. I will be out until the evening hours. Weekends are just too short!
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Getting active solenoid or speed sensor fault eo1. Wont allow test. How do I fix
Customer reply replied 10 years ago

just found plug that goes through transmission wall for the solenoids had tape all over it. when i took it apart three pins were broke. its a bendix 20-29, 17 pin connector. pins are broke off in female side of connector--do you know of a good way to get them out and is there a special to i need for the pins. The plug had been worked on. all ends were soldered on instead of crimped.

Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
That is the factory assembly. I have no repair option for that plug except to replace harness. It is the whole transmission harness too. I have had to replace a few of these and the first one was from a log jammed into it while backing up a trash pile of tree tops. Machine was down for three days. It took me a full day to swap out the harness.
I have made a temporary plug with just the pins and tape but, it won't hold up long.
CAT does sell some plugs but, they must be soldered to the wires. I have not tried to locate any plugs and am not sure how you would find them other places.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

i ordered a new plug from newark electronics. cut and soldered wires to new plug. all gears are working and trans light is off now. adjusted pressures for all clutches. 1st gear was 345 and 2nd was 390 the rest were good. while doing pres test the pressere was fluctuating between 2-4 psi. should that be a concern. 2nd question---looking through access hole to trans clutches fluid was kinda spraying sputtering from some type valve on right front wall toward top of trans compartment which seems to be adding lots of air in fluid. Is this normal? will that cause overheating? 3rd do i need to do a fill callibration after adjusting pressures. 4th should have asked this first. pressure test at 2000 rpm-----is that ok

Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago

Glad to hear you fixed the wiring.

Pressure fluctuation should not be a problem. Do check the oil for foaming. If you do see foam or allot of aeration oil, check suction lines or scavenger to convertor for allowing air to enter to system. Hard or cracked hoses and loose clamps will let air enter without always showing a leak.

It is normal for fluid to spray around in the valve body. Pressure is normal, so no problem is present. Some air will be in the oil but, it should not be foamy. Make sure suction screens are tight and seal is good. NOTE; oil must be drained to remove main screen.

Please do the fill calibration, it will make the shifting as smooth as possible. Set rpm to 1700 rpm for the fill calibration.

Setting the pressures at 2000 rpm is correct.

You will soon have this machine is top-notch shape.

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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

I would like to check screens. i have manual but im not the best at 2d drawings. how do i access screens. Is there any thing else i should check pressures on to make sure everything is working properly. I have seen other taps on very back and under floor board. should this machine always spin tracs under load cutting roots and pushing tree over. I would like to make sure torque converter is working. I still have a battery light on and the exclamation light blinking by the key. Whats the simplest way to check charging system. Batterys do run down after a couple of weeks of starting. What type of fluid should i use for hydraulic, trans oil, and final drive oil

Mechanic: catmastertech, Technician replied 10 years ago
The screen in the convertor is under the bottom of the convertor. A plug (24mm I think) has to be removed to access the screen.
The transmission screen is beside the suction hose to the transmission pump. This is the pump with two lines on top and is on the right side of the convertor drive.
Magnets are inside this screen and can break if dropped.
The four taps together under the floor pan and steering and brake pressure.
Others are for transmission pump pressure and priority valve.
The one on the rear is transmission lube (very low pressure and no adjustment).
Not much to worry about unless you have noise or shifting problem.
Priority valve shifts extra pressure and flow to transmission after each shift request from the controls. This is the pump surge you hear after releasing the parking brake and make a shift while the engine is above 1300 rpm. Priority is always on below 1300 rpm and parking brake released and it is always off when the parking brake is applied.
(A little complicated but, solenoid failures are the only trouble that happens occasionally)
No simple way to check charging. The green wire must have at least 0.2 volts with the key on. With the engine running should have system voltage. The system has much more to check to find the true problem. If the charging system is not working, you cannot use this machine. The voltage needed to operate the solenoids will kill the battery. When the voltages falls too low, brakes will drag and lock, transmission will lose gears and not respond at times.
I would clear the codes and start over to see what the charging system returns. These codes will begin with 030 for the monitor. The transmission may have low voltage codes too. Please post the serial number, I want to be sure I am on the correct info. If a tag is on the alternator, please include the number it shows as well.
It would be easier to search this file in a new question, if you don't mind. I am scrolling up and down trying to keep up with the last posts so I don't repeat myself too much.
Just note the question is for me. Thanks, Donnie.
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