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191 Olds Cutlass 350 with Accel points eliminator. Yesterday…

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191 Olds Cutlass 350 with...
191 Olds Cutlass 350 with Accel points eliminator. Yesterday I was driving and car died. I was able to start it immediately. 10 sec later it died and restarted immediately. I died again within a minute and would net restart. I replaced the coild and condenser, and it fired right up. Drove for 10 minutes and it died again. Restarted after 10 min. Died again 20 min later, Got it towed home. Need to diagnose a fix. Power at coil with key on.
Submitted: 4 months ago.Category: Classic Car
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1/18/2018
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago
Roy Belding
Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic
Category: Classic Car
Satisfied Customers: 7,420
Experience: Grew up with most of the 50,60 and 70 high performance cars
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hello, my name is ***** ***** I will be glad to assist you. please allow me a couple of minutes to gather some basic info.

Roy

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Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

ok

you need 12 volts to the positive side of the coil key on engine off. you need this voltage cold and hot.

test the negative side as well. then use a test light and crank the engine over, you should see the light flash quickly. that is telling you the distributor is working. if it is not, then the issue is indie the distributor.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I'll run that diag and get back with you. Thanks
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

your welcome

Please take a moment and rate my service 3 stars or better. that is the only way the site will pay me for my efforts.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Car fired right up this morning no problems. Drove it around to the other side of my house and it wouldn't restart. I do have a flash from the negative side of the distributor coil. However only 6.6 volts on positive side of coil
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

ok, you need a full 12, especially with the upgrade. you will need to run a new wire to the positive side of the distributor from the fuse box. find a fuse that has 12 volts with key on only. use that fuse. there should be a stud on the box for that.

the 6.6 comes from the resistor wire from the old point set. it delivers 12 cold and when it warms up, it drops to around 7 volts.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
That's amazing. Car ran flawlessly for the last 15,000 miles with that setup. I wonder what changed?
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

age of the harness. 40 plus years.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Good thought! So the question now is, where and or how do I bypass the resistor wire to have switchable power?
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

as I stated, you need to run a new wire from the fuse box to the plus side of the coil. you can remove the old wire. tape it back into the harness itself.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I understand. Is there a specific fuse connection at the box that feeds the coil? Do you have access to a diagram that would show it so I don't have to search around for it?
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

dont have a diagram, too old for my information system.

look for a 10 amp fuse controlled by the ignition switch. thats where you want to take your feed.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I'll respond after it's done and I've tested it. Thanks for your help.
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

your welcome

Please take a moment and rate my service 3 stars or better. that is the only way the site will pay me for my efforts.

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I ran 12 volts directly to the plus side of the coil. The car did exactly what it did before. Ran for a little while and then shut off like I cut the ignition. When I remove the 12 volts from the plus side of the coil the engine kicked a little bit. Like it received Spark.
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

ok, you still need 12 volts to the coil. that needs to be addressed.

the only other thing is the module in the distributor. I assume it has been upgraded to a module and not points???

did they give you a new wire from the distributor to the coil??

Roy

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It seems to me that the standard installation involves the stock ballast resistor wire. That's the way it's been running for the last year or so. I don't know if that ballast resistor wire reduces voltage? Regardless, I ran 12 volts to the positive coil post and it still shut off.
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

as I stated before when the engine warms up the voltage drops from 12 to around 7 volts. that was the original.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
1) I'm stating that for the last year I've run that original ballast wire with the current points Eliminator kit without issue.
2) I'm also stating that I ran straight 12 volts to the positive side of the coil as you suggested. The result is the same.
3) The points Eliminator kit instructions suggested I use the original ballast wire that drops from 12 volts to 7 volts when warm.
4) So to recap, the original wiring causes the car to quit. Bypassing the ballast wire with 12 volt constant also causes the car to quit.
Classic Car Mechanic: Roy Belding, Classic Car Mechanic replied 4 months ago

I know this, you have stated it several times.

your distributor is the only thing left.

I will opt out and let someone else try to help you

have a great night

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