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Chris
Chris, Technician
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 13765
Experience:  30 years certified Chrysler technician, smog license Certified Master Technician
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Yeah I have a 99 Chrysler Sebring jxi with 2.5 and what it's

Customer Question

Yeah I have a 99 Chrysler Sebring jxi with 2.5 and what it's doing is is it runs fine when its cold for about the first minute and then as soon as it warms up it starts has a lot of hesitation
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Chrysler
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Hello and welcome to just answer. Does it eventually start to run better after it gets warmed up or not?

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
no...it continues to run poorly with virtually no power... anything more than very light throttle pressure and it'll start to die... I had a few mechanics look at it and they all seem to think it was a clogged catalytic converter so I replace the converter today and it still doing the same thing. All of this started when the car developed a no start condition it was diagnosed as a problem with the distributor cap where was arcing through the distributor cap once the cap was replaced the car started but it had this problem.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Another interesting point is that after putting on the new catalytic converter this morning it is actually running worse and barely drivable it was slightly drivable before but very difficult getting it up to speed from a stop... once I got it rolling I could actually get it up the highway speeds with very light throttle pressure I doubt I can do that now
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Ok, possible fuel pressure problem (fuel pump ) or if the catalytic converter came apart inside, then it may have plugged up the muffler. Get the fuel pressure checked next. It should be about 50 psi when running. If it is low, then have the fuel pump replaced. Fuel starvation can cause this.

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
OK, lots more information to follow...at the time of last message the car was virtually undriveable...as a last resort to having it towed I decided to try revving the engine for a while to possible clear the exhaust system or burn off fouling in the combustion chamber...the end result is that the car is more driveable than before he converter was replaced. I decided to drive it back home which is about 25 miles. Here is what is going on: I noticed that it is much more drivable and will allow for larger throttle openings at RPMs over 3000. At around 3500 I can pretty much floor it with minimal hesitation. So I found that the car is driveable by using the lower gears 2 and 1 where it builds RPMs faster. At 70MPH in gear2 and at about 3500 RPM it is very driveable at highway speeds. From a standing start with the transmission in D it has virtually nothing and anything more than about 5% throttle aperture it will just start to sputter and die. I can't see fuel starvation as being a problem because I can gun the car full throttle at 70 MPH and accelerate to 90 normally. Im wondering about your clogged muffler theory (could it be the resonator which is before the muffler?)...the Meineke guy who installed the converter said that it was unlikely to be a resonator because it was a straight through pipe....I didnt get around to asking him about the muffler though. Finally, I should mention that before the car developed the no start condition it was running at idle very very rough...and I ran it quite a bit in this state in order to try to troubleshoot...besides possibly clogging the converter what Im wondering is what could have occurred inside the combustion chamber?...Besides the plugs getting foulded is the throttle position sensor something that could of been damaged?...The reason I ask this is because the cars
driveability seems to correlate very strongly with RPMs and as the RPMs increase the driveability improves...not sure if this could correlate with a damaged TPS somehow or not.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Sorry, I was actually thinking of the crank position sensor above not TPS.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Let me add one more point, given the fact that it runs perfectly when totally cold I would say that this also supports your clogged exhaust theory...also 2 mechanics felt for exhaust airflow and deemed it to be to little. My only problem with this theory is I dont every recall hearing alot of schrapnel sounds of material being blown from the converter through the pipes...should one expect to hear this?
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Well not necessarily would you hear any schrapnel sounds, it would be gradual. By the way, I have never seen a TPS cause this type of a driveabilty issue. Double check that exhaust and fuel pressure.

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Wilco, one more question, could a vacuum leak somewhere cause these symptoms?...Im wondering if ignition timing and how the timing varies as the car warms up and also as RPMs increase could factor in to this.
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

On a fuel injected engine like yours, no. A vacuum leak would cause a high idle and eventually set a code and turn on the check engine light, however a bad EGR valve (stuck open). could cause an issue like yours, but would also cause a very rough idle, just FYI.

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yep, whelp, thanks for mentioning the EGR valve...because my message board research has uncovered alot of comments pointing in that the direction...I had intended to replace that first but of the 4 or 5 mechanics I talked to about this everyone of them would say something along the lines of "if it was the EGR valve you could disconnect the vacuum lines and it would eliminate the symptoms"...I tried doing this and pulling the wiring going to the EGR transducer but nothing made a difference. If I understand correctly the Valve works in conjunction with the EGR transducer which in turn feeds signals to the computer to tell the computer how to do engine management. So yeah, I was ready to do that but was thwarted.
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Yes I had just thought of that when I was typing. The EGR could be the problem.

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Chris I think I'm going to go ahead and replace it thanks for your guidance in this matter and as soon as I have a confirmation that that solved the problem I will let you know
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

You are welcome! It was a pleasure to help you!

Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Hello, just checking back to see if you received my last reply, and if so do you still need help with your problem? Please remember, the website will not automatically credit me from your deposit or subscription without your Rating! Please, use the Rating System Box and Rate our Q&A session today or. If you need to ask more questions, please feel free to ask!

Thank you!

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Well I replaced EGR valve but it didnt solve the problem...I will of course check fuel pressure but I am beginning to wonder if these problems could not be do to a problem with ignition timing and in particular a particular vacuum advance...remember all these problems began when the car would not run do to a damaged distributor cap (arcing literally burned a hole through the cap).
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Hmmmm, are any trouble codes being set?

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
check engine light is currently on the last time I pulled codes it had a few codes which were all related to cylinder misfire
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
One thing I should mention also is that when the car was originally diagnosed and disassembled the mechanic did a pretty bad job of putting it back together again I didn't notice one small part that looked at me like it could be a vacuum line coupling I can take a picture of it I could never figure out where it went or if it even belong to my car again the work done by Pep Boys was pretty bad they actually sheared off a bolt for the EGR tube going to the intake and had the pay me $350 because they didn't have anybody to repair the damage that they did. for the record this was Pep Boys in Frederick Maryland
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

I see, Well if it is only misfire codes, then maybe that ignition coil inside of the distributor is failing when it gets warmed up and causing a weak spark.. If you clear the codes do they come right back? Is it a certain cylinder tat is misfiring?

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Chris yes I was definitely thinking about a problem with the ignition and in particular the nation coil as well it looks to me like the only way to replace the coil on this vehicle is to replace the entire distributor is that correct regarding the codes it was generating a few different codes but they were all for a specific cylinder misfire... it does keep coming back with the check engine light I can pull the codes again today if you think it would help
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Yes that is correct. The coil is not serviceable separately, the distributor will need be replaced. And if you can, clear the codes then drive it until it acts up and then read the codes.

Let me know,

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Okay will do I've never clear codes before I do not like to do is pull the battery terminal off and let it sit for some amount of time
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Yes you can do it that way. Remove the negative cable for 2 minutes and then reconnect it to clear the codes.

Chris

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
ok... I'll try to do that and get the codes shortly
Expert:  Chris replied 2 years ago.

Sounds good!

Chris