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Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 3406
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/ Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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Chrysler Sebring Touring: Have a 2009 Chrysler Sebring sedan.

Customer Question

Have a 2009 Chrysler Sebring sedan. The engine light is on for loose gas cap. Replaced the gas cap nothing happened. Took it to a car shop they did a smoke test. Found no leaks suggested I just replaced the gas cap. Replaced the gas cap for a second time. Still engine light is on. What you suggest I do?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Chrysler
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 2 years ago.
Hi, my name is Ed. Welcome to JustAnswer!. Most of the false alarm-type evaporative system leak codes I see are caused by the failure of the actual evap system leak detection cop, called the Evaporative System Integrity Module, or ESIM. It's a simple pressure-vacuum switch that's plumbed into the same vapor atmosphere of the fuel system that your gas cap is, called simply the evap system. Its job is to provide a weak seal to the outside world, allowing a test to be performed while driving or sitting in the garage overnight that tells the PCM (engine controller) whether the evap system is sealed or not. A failure of the ESIM to do its job is taken at face value by the PCM, believing that a leak does exist at that point and your GAS CAP prompt may go on, along with the CHECK ENGINE/ MIL lamp. The only way to convince the car that you have no leaks present at that point is to have a successful run of the Leak Monitor, but your evap leak "cop" probably has the flu. I'd have the luxury of scanning your vehicle to see if I can elicit a reaction from the ESIM, but you probably don't have a full-featured factory scan tool lying around. If you want to replace the Public Enemy #1 for erroneous GAS CAP warnings, it would be the ESIM. It is a white plastic device that's attached to your evaporative system's vapor canister, mounted to the rear of the back wheels. It has but one large 1/2" diameter hose (the vent) and one 2-wire connector to be disconnected, at which point a black plastic release tab at the twist-mount base needs to be lifted for removal. The rubber gasket that sits between it and the canister should be replaced at the same time, taking care to avoid road crud entry to the canister. It's really pretty easy to replace, provided you can safely lift the car a bit to gain access to the underside. Expect both of these parts (ESIM and gasket) to run about $50. Ed