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John, triple chrysler master tech
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 2251
Experience:  43 years,triple chrys ,ase master tech,l1,t2 b5 a1-a8 Hev spec.
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2001 pt cruiser 99,0000 miles - wont start / no crank jumper

Customer Question

2001 pt cruiser 99,0000 miles - won't start / no crank
jumper from bat positive to starter b+ terminal, crank but no run

cable at positive terminal looks like crap - no corrosion, but looks like cables are 1" too short and are in constant tension, 3/4" exposed copper where wires exit terminal - some oxidation of copper

negative cables are great! replaced them last year when i replaced battery

start fuse in pcm is fine
feed circuit resistance tests are fine

start relay tests ok, replaced anyway - same result
relay circuit test fails - no voltage at the cavity terminal 86 with switch in start position, but wiring to switch looks okay

wiring in cabin / on column all appears fine (as much as i can see of it)

documentation i have does not show ign swith connector cavity layout and no numbers on connector/wires/harness so running out of info

i lack pin drilled 10m torx bit to remove start switch so cannot examine it physically without breaking something.

what's most common fault in no crank situation?

start relay?
automatic shutdown relay?
transmission range sensor?
ignition switch?
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Chrysler
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
Hi my name is john.

Did you test the little wire at the solenoid for 12 volts?

You can just try a different ASD relay if you want.

Check fuse 1 under the hood , than pin 6 at the ignition switch for power when the key is in the start position, than
Pin 84 at the ASD relaay for power when in the start position.

let me know what you find out.


Customer: replied 7 years ago.

hi john


i believe there was 0 volts at "little wire" on solenoid with everything connected and key in start - but ran those test last weekend in the dark in the pouring rain!


will double check


thanks for ign switch cav pinouts and diagram!

will run other tests you recommend in next 30 min or so and advise results



Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
Sound good let me know
Customer: replied 7 years ago.





little wire @ solenoid:

jumper to solenoid, measure to batt ground with everything connected,swith in start


.7 millivolts in park, ign switch OFF

1.5 millivolts in park, ign switch RUN

3.7 millivolts in park, ign switch RUN, foot on brake pedal (brk lites on)

3.5 millivolts in park, ign swith START, foot on brake pedal

no 12v - perhaps my method is faulty but don't believe so


fuse #1 under hood

- continuity okay, 15ohm resistance


pin 6 on ign switch

.2 volts key in OFF position

12 volts key in START position


pin "84" at asd relay

- cannot find or understand properly your reference to pin 84

- diagram you included mentions a "B4" (perhaps your eyes are as bad as mine)

- on relay itself i only have pins as follows

_ _

30 86

_ _ _

85 87a 87


are there different terminal numbers in the cavity itself?


diagram below is from doc i have - showing start relay, but all relays in pdm of this type are identical for horn, fuel pump, asd, start, a/c compressor & hs fan .... right?


cannot identify which of 30, 86, 85, 87a, and 87 i should test as "84" ... sorry


thanks very much for your kind consideration


Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
Ok the ignition switch is good.

Here apicture with different number but it will work for the test.

Pins 4,5 should be hot in the start position with 12 volts.

Pin 1 should read 12 volts in the start position.

Pin 2 should go to ground with the PCM to make pin 1 hot
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

ok will run test & advise


making the following assumptions


all tests in this "round" to be performed on ASD relay cavity as follows


connect voltmeter POS to cavity pin 4 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg

- read 12v in start

connect voltmeter POS to cavity pin 5 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg

- read 12v in start

perhaps you mean measure across pins 4 and 5 ?


connect voltmeter POS to cavity pin 1 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg

- read 12v in start

connect ohmmeter POS to cavity pin 2 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg

- read continuity in start


will standby for 5 min in case you want to (HIT ME WITH BRICK) get me to run tests differently than above


thanks again

Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
at the starter relay is there 12 volts.

At pin 3,1 with the key on.

Is there power at pin 5 with the key in the ignition switch in the start position
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

i regret to inform you that i cannot perform your last requested tests as the ignition key will no longer rotate the cylinder


this is something that my wife informs me has been happening for the last couple weeks and she just remembered - now that it's doing it to me.




it's apparently the interlock linkage that will not allow cylinder to rotate unless in park/neutral (and foot on brake?)


i know this is a new issue for you but just wondering if you know of any tricks to address this short of using a drill, steering wheel removal etc.


tried turning wheel from lock to lock, banding on wheel with palms of hands, and tapping column (gently) in general area of bottom of ign cylinder - no luck, now i can't even tow the darn thing!



frustrated in maryland ..... grrrrrr!

Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
Is the battery up to 12 volts/

you can also try tapping on the ignition switch with a plastic hammer several times while tring to turn the ignition switch with your foot on the brake pedal
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
Some of the owner manual tell you how to release the brake interlock.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
going to read hers now!
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
I can tell you how to take the cable off to put it another gear if you want.

Is this a automatic or manual transmission?

Customer: replied 7 years ago.

no info about releasing brake interlock in her owners manual - just mentions that there is one


automatic transmission


you should know that i can see the little yellow "tang" move when i try to move the shifter, but the shifter will not move out of park. so the cable between shifter and column appears to be working - must be the "brake pedal pressed" system causing this problem


would be grateful to at least know how to unlock the brake interlock it so i can tow the darn thing over to the dealer



Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
Depress the tab on top of the cable connector and remove the cable from the back side of the steering column ignition cylinder housing Interlock Cable

If that don't work you can disconnect the transmission shift cable at the transmission and move it two position to be in neutral
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

i tried pressing the clip and sliding the cable out of the ign cyl before i came back in and it would not come out - seemed to be requiring switch cylinder to rotate to some position to release, but perhaps that's because it's jammed at the shifter end of the cable - i'll have a look



Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
That sound like it wasn't working right to start with.

You can just slip the end of the cable off the transmission and move the lever
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
If that doesn't work for you, you can remove the center consloe and unhook the brake inter lock cable there also
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.

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