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1992 silverado stepside off road z-71 5.7 TBI. Old fuel pump…

1992 silverado stepside off...

1992 silverado stepside off road z-71 5.7 TBI. Old fuel pump assembly float was bad. Changed in-tank assembly and NO power to the fuel pump. Connected the old pump--won't work. Fuse is fine. I believe I may have tripped a sensor. I don't know--gas lines were empty of course. Have a good ground.

Mechanic's Assistant: Is the power loss consistent, or does it fluctuate?

Neither the new pump or the old one will turn over since I first tried to start the new one in place in the tank--read no power

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Silverado yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yeah--------Checked the fuse--it's fine. I see there are fuseable links just below the fuel pump switch--wonder if one blew or, possibly tripped a sensor with the lack of fuel pressure-------trust me all was well except the tank float on the old pump.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Truck's red

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Answered in 4 minutes by:
3/27/2018
Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 5,628
Experience: ASE Master Technician, L1, Master GM Technician. Over 20 years of bumper to bumper GM experience.
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There is no sensor that will cause this to happen. You have verified that there is no power on the gray wire going to the fuel pump?

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
nor the pump fuse on the firewall--fuse is good

OK, the fuel pump relay is right next to that fuse. Does it click when you turn the key on? It will only click on for two seconds, then click off until the engine is cranked.

Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton, Chevy Technician
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See attached.

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
Hi Jerry,
Have a new test light--napa pos, but functional. I have continuity on both sides of every power lead coming off the distribution block on both sides of all fused links. I have continuity from the fuel pump fuse to the end of the grey wire at the pump 3 prong connector and between the ground and the the grey wire on the pump.

Is there power at the orange wire of the fuel pump relay connector?

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
Yeah--that's the hot lead

Yes, so you have power there. If you put a jumper wire between the orange wire and the grey wire at this connector (essentially closing the switch) does the pump run?

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
The cover plate refers to that 5 connector as "optional relay".--but I 'll do that now
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
bingo!!
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
grounded it to the - term on battery

So the pump runs when jumpered like that?

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
no click at all

You mean you grounded the relay pin and it doesn't click, is that what you're saying?

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So a new relay will fix this up then!

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
I'm off to the parts store.
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
Napa sold me one that doesn't work--put the jumper in and it fires the pump right up

Are you getting power from the ECM to make that relay close? Should have power on the dark green wire for two seconds at key ON.

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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
I can't read that PDF at all--it's fuzzy on the screen--to test that i need a ground--is there a ground wire in that module?
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
Or can I hook to the power/orange and just touch the green?
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
I'll have to test it standing looking at the multi-meter. Disconnect the battery, turn the key on and with the meter hooked to the orange and a ground------touch the neg battery lead to the post to complete the circuit?
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
are we still connected?
Customer reply replied 26 days ago
One issue--when I got the new relay the battery was low. It's re-charging now.

I am here, I'm sorry, I had to leave for the afternoon.

Let me try that PDF again, I see what you mean about it being fuzzy. It's clear on my end.

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See if you can read that one.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Old fart that I am I forgot I bought a service manual CD when I got the truck. section 3-49 is the won't start fuel pump test info and it states that how to probe the fuel relay module. Step #2 "engine off probe A to D with the test light and the blight should come on for two seconds. No light = faulty ECM".
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
in short--I tested the grey lead from the relay to the connector and it has continuity. I hooked up the old pump with the jumper in between orange and grey and it ran. Leaves me with still no power to the relay from the ECM.

OK, you are not getting this power from the ECM on the green wire? You've verified this with a test light or multimeter?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
That schematic reads just fine. Thank you. Needed nothing this afternoon as the battery was about dead and is re-charging now. A fully charged battery may be the key to powering the ECM--i
Answer: No power from the ECM, but battery power was very low when I installed the new relay switch.
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I'm done for today. My charger is a battery genius and runs slow, so I won't do any more work till tomorrow.

If there is no power from the ECM, check all fuses with the test light and make sure they all have power on them with key on (except for a couple that are not supposed to have power). Running the fuel pump is one of the most basic functions of the ECM, it should always do that as long as it's powered up. If there is power and ground to the ECM and it's not running the pump, you need a new ECM.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
ED Zackery!! I'll read the fuses in the morning first. I believe there is a fusable link between the battery and the ECM also

OK, I'll check in on you tomorrow then.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
this guy goes to a Chinese doctor and gets a series of tests and the doctor finds nothing---guy keeps going back and insisting there's something wrong and the doctor is getting fed up with the patient--------finally the Chinese doc tells him "U got Ed Zackary disease"
Patient: "wtat the hell is that?"
Doc: "You head rook Ed Zackary rike ur ass"
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
me or my truck have the same ailment ---------I'll check with you tomorrow if I make enough headway.

lol OK, Chief.

:-)

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Good morning.
All fuses are visually good with continuity across the poles and circuits complete with each fuse in place. NO power to the pump with the new switch on the fuel relay.

OK. Let's get to the ECM. It's behind the glove box. Pull it out, and we're going to use a test light to check the power and ground circuits to the ECM.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
ok
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
got it in my hand

What do you have, two connectors on that?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
need a part number?

OK good. Like I said earlier, the wiring schematics for these are sketchy, just wanted to verify.

If you look closely at the back side of each connector, where the wires go in, the cavities are numbered. Can you see how they're numbered? You should see A and B on one connector, and they're number 1-12, and then C and D on the other connector with the cavities numbered 1-16. Do you see what I'm talking about?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
double pins numbered right to lefe on each side and 1-12 rt 1-16left
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
left

Exactly.

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Pin A6 should be a pink wire with a black stripe. Do you see it?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
on the back of the short of the short plug
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
a-plug is on the right

Yes. Did you identify that wire?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
it's identified

OK. Put the alligator clip of your test light on a good ground. Find a piece of clean shiny metal under the dash. Then prove this circuit with the pointed end of the test light. With key on, this circuit should have power/turn on the test light.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
with the module hooked up?
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I disconnected the ECM and it's here with me at the puter

Nope, we are just testing wiring. Leave the ECM on your desk. We are seeing if the circuits going to the ECM are doing what they should be doing.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I probed the female pin connector with ground to neg bat terminal--no light.

Key on, yes?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
good circuit---key's back off

OK, that tests good.

Next, pin B1, orange wire. It's not clear whether key should be on or not for this one, if it doesn't work with key off, try it with key on. It should also light up a test light when probed.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
the orange #1 is in the same plug
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
orange in each plug and both are hot/key off or on

OK good.

Next, take a paper clip or something like that, and insert it into the orange wire that was hot, and attach the alligator clip of the test light to it. So, the test light clip is now connected to power.

Take the pointed end and touch pin A12, a black wire with a white stripe. Test light should light up.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
a-1 to a-12 key on?

Nope, B1 to A12. Key on.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
that's black & white to black & white?

B1 should be the orange wire you tested earlier.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
these are not marked a and b---

You found this orange wire earlier and tested it, no?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
clarification: A and B are assigned to the two rows of pins on one connector and c and d are on the other connector? They are not clearly marked---numbers are clear--letters not

That is correct, you'll find A and B on the smaller connector, and C and D on the larger connector.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
b-1 to a-12 key on lights up
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
in fact there's a light key on or off

OK. Plug the ECM back into the truck. Identify pin A1, it's the green wire with a white stripe. Do you see it? This is the very same green/white wire that leads to the fuel pump relay. When you turn the key ON, this wire should have power on it for two seconds, then it goes out.

So, with everything connected, backprobe this wire with the pointed end of the test light, with the alligator clip connected to ground. Turn key on, test light should light for two seconds and go out.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
it does exactly

Then it should do exactly the same thing if you put the test light to the fuel pump relay connector on the green/white wire.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
remember what I said about the switch I got from napa? Works like a charm---jury rigged with duct tape so I can see it from the cab

Does that circuit light up at the fuel pump relay?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
for a couple seconds when the ignition comes on--bright light

OK. Put your test light across two pins at the relay: the green/white terminal, and the black/white terminal. Turn the key on, does it light up for two seconds then go out?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
lights up for two seconds--bright light

Then the relay should be closing, and the fuel pump should be getting power for two seconds with the key on, on the gray wire at the pump.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
hooked to the old pump it works perfectly for the first time---ignition on runs for a couple seconds and full time when I hit start--up until we did the probes it did nothing
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I guess I can put this mess all back together. Somewhere we closed an open circuit
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
What's your take--other than I may be mentally deficient?

Unplugging and reconnecting the ECM probably did it.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Yup--probably caused the Puter to restart and analyze. I'm putting it back together now. You've been great and I appreciate your patience.
I was on several Saturation Diving platforms and other systems, but the SAT systems are really touchy at times. The main power and strength cable on the Mark-2 systems was 7 inches in diameter with 72 pin connectors and slip rings so the cable could swivel a bit with the PTC at depth (Personnel Transfer Capsule) at depth. We made a 1000' dive and numerous shallower dives. Point being, change of ambient pressure from 14.7 to hundreds of pounds combined with the differential pressures caused a lot of problems with the micro circuits and one trick was to power-down and re-set. Now I gotta tell you that requires recapturing the divers//if possible. That's why we had emergency gas. But particularly with the instrumentation the first step was switch analyzers and re-cal hourly. Still went bad a few times.
I think you hit it right on the head. If you ever get the chance read Blind Man's Bluff by Sherry Sontag. Spooky down there.Think I'm good now. Learned a lot and I thank you. If it crashes and burns I'll get back to you.
V/r.
HTCM/MDV R.L. MacDanold USN (ret.)

Pleasure working and talking with you, Chief. Good luck with it.

-Jerry

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
much for that--It runs but is not moving fuel. Does it require priming? There's just about 3 inches of gas in the tank.

It's wired backwards. It happens, you'll have to remove it and swap the wiring if it's not moving fuel like it should.

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
swap grey and green--correct?
Customer reply replied 24 days ago
wrong--grey and black with white stripe
Customer reply replied 24 days ago
pump is wired grey, purple center and black with white stripe. Power is grey, so black would be neutral?

Yes.

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
Does it have to be re-wired inside the tank?

That's the way it should be done. Theoretically, you can do it at the plug, but that just screws the next guy to work on it, because the plug won't be wired right.

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
Whole new problem today. Had no power to the pump . Bottom of the relay tests ok so I pilled the ecm for an hour. When I put it back in it fried A-12 and D-1. Burned the pin off A-12

If it got hot, it's due to a poor connection. Look at the female side, see if it's misshaped. Reshape it as necessary to improve contact, and put a new ECM in it. You have to swap the PROM from the old ECM to the new one, it's not hard to do.

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
just ordered one. The female end pulled out of the female A-12 socket and I didn't catch it. Suspect it grounded. I contacted the fuel pump vendor--waiting for a reply. Checking with the auto parts sellers all these new fuel pumps are made in china. The one I have is NOT going back in. I'll check the wiring hook-up. It's supposed to be grey and ground to the pump but all the new ones change color on the inside connectors so I can see how it would get screwed up in china--rice-burned confliction. It just costs money. What circuit is D-1 associated with please?

I don't see D1 at all in the schematic we've been using, it looks like an empty cavity, at least in the schematic. What color is the wire?

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
Black with a white stripe just like a-12

That is a ground, then.

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Customer reply replied 24 days ago
Have a nice easter

Same to you sir.... err, Chief.

:-)

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
As an aside//I ordered new pump and control mod. This pump actually has the same color code in the pump. BUT, after I cleaned up the garage the mail came and I received an old Rockford pocket watch in the mail. It's a Plymouth King Edward --kind of rare and costly. Seller wrapped it in two thin bubble wrap sheets and stuck it in an envelope. Pallet jewel was damaged in shipment so the balance is locked-up so, I guess it's just my turn in the barrel. I'm 100% rated on E-bay so I have no trouble with returns--but this ain't been a productive week. My acid re-flux is back!!
Customer reply replied 22 days ago
Just pulled the gas tank--fuel in the return line. All of that exercise for a backassward pump. New one is pictured with same wire code as the harness. Pocket watch is headed back to Florida and the Dog is well!!
Customer reply replied 18 days ago
I guess we're disconnected
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