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A list of issues. 1994 g20 2500 5.7 van conversion. I am…

A list of issues ...

A list of issues

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model/year of your Chevy?

1994 g20 2500 5.7 van conversion

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your 2500 yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yes I am working on power steering, fuel pump, control arm remove and replace

Mechanic's Assistant: When was the fluid last checked? Have you heard any whining noises while turning the wheel?

No noise just no control over the vehicle it zero steers

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Wheel bearing

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Answered in 5 minutes by:
3/25/2018
Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 5,628
Experience: ASE Master Technician, L1, Master GM Technician. Over 20 years of bumper to bumper GM experience.
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What do you mean it "zero steers?"

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It's like a boat kinda turn the wheel more than needed to get it to steer

OK. The best technique I use to find this freeplay is to have someone sit in the driver's seat and move the wheel back and forth, just enough to make the wheels actually turn from side to side a tiny bit, while I crawl under the vehicle and watch the linkage to see where all of the freeplay is located. Tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms will all reveal their freeplay this way, it will be very evident. If there is no linkage freeplay, you have to see if it's all within the steering gearbox, you'll be able to see if the input shaft is turning a lot, but very little pitman arm moving is taking place.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I need to replace the control arm shaft assembly front lower, control arm w ball joint front upper, both tire rod ends and an idler arm
K. Wiggins
K. Wiggins, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 3,400
Experience: ASE Certified Technician, Associates Degree in Automotive Technology, 15+ years in the trade
Verified

Hello, it's often cheaper to purchase the entire control arm with new ball joint and bushings installed. Would you like instructions on replacing the items you mentioned?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have the front upper control arm w ball joint. But not the shaft assembly it's a bit harder to locate will this be an issue

It's best to replace the parts in pairs, you can definitely do one set at a time. I would do the tie rods first, then steering box then control arms. Let me see if I can find the UCA shaft with bushings real quick

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The shaft for the control arm can be purchased HERE. For special tools I suggest a ball joint/tie rod popper like THIS. It'll be a few minutes and I'll get you info on how to replace these parts.

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Below is info on the wheel bearings and ball joints. You'll need a ball joint press which most parts stores have in their loan a tool program. I'm gathering the rest of your info.

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Below is info for the gear box, it's manual but if you have power the only other step is to remove the lines.

The idle arm will just be an unbolt and bolt back on deal. Same with tie rod ends, once you use the tool to remove them from the steering knuckle back off the lock nut and count the turns until it comes off then thread new one on.

The control arms are also pretty straight forward. Once you take the ball joint out, remove the through frame bolts. You'll need to rent a coil spring compressor to safely remove the spring to service the control arms.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
My order says I need front lower control arm assembly
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
You sent the upper control arm assembly

Sorry about that, the lower shaft and bushings are very hard to find and THIS VENDOR is the only one I know of who has them. That listing is for the right side it should be flippable for the left. I would contact them to confirm.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok thank you could you run me thru the fuel pump as one last favor...maybe the whole assembly just In case the wires or tubes are bad

Sure thing, you'll have to drop the tank then use a brass bunch to remove the retainer ring. ONLY use brass as it doesn't spark when hit with a hammer.

Once you have the ring off you can pull the sender and pump assembly out. The pump has a short piece of hose and two clamps that hold it on the sender. Most new pumps come with a new wiring harness which you just cut the old one off and crimp new wires on. IT's pretty simple. Below is detailed info.

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Should read brass punch, sorry about the typo.

K. Wiggins
K. Wiggins, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 3,400
Experience: ASE Certified Technician, Associates Degree in Automotive Technology, 15+ years in the trade
Verified
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