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It won’t start unless we take the battery to be fully

It won’t start unless...

It won’t start unless we take the battery to be fully charged at autozone. Then it’ll run for a day and back to square one. Battery is good, alternator is good

Mechanic's Assistant: Have you checked the battery, particularly the terminal connections? Are they corroded?

Yes. Battery is good until it sits too long and needs charged back up. Terminal connections are brand new

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model/year of your Chevy?

2004 Silverado

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Silverado yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yes. We’ve replaced the battery, new battery terminal connections, checked some fuses.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

The pcm b fuse is not giving a reading even with a brand new fuse in place

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
We’ve been trying to figure out what the deal is for a few weeks now.
Answered in 33 minutes by:
3/17/2018
GM Tech (Cam)
GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 30,400
Experience: GM Grand Master Technician 2007. 14 years experience.
Verified

Hello there, I am Cam.

I am Licensed technician at a GM dealership with more than 16 years experience. 
Like you, I am a user of this website and as such, any billing questions should be sent to customer service.

I ask that you please provide details and communicate with me so we can make your experience here worth 5 stars! I am around most days but not every minute of every day. If you reply while I am offline, I will respond when I am next online. 

I am reviewing your request and will post in a moment.

Has Autozone checked the battery?
Have you replaced the battery trying to fix this?
The next day, does the truck even try to start?

PCM b fuse gets power only when cranking and running as its supplied power by the fuel pump relay.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
autozone has checked the battery and we have replaced the battery while dealing with this issue. The truck does not start the next day.

but does the starter try to crank or is it dead?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It does nothing at all. No lights, clicks, Cranks or anything

OK so we have a drain on the battery. So next step, do you have a multimeter that can measure amperage?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It seems like we get the battery fully charged and then when we try to start the next day it’s dead. But we’ve replaced the battery twice with the same problem. Yes I have a multimeter

yes, if you have a drain, it kills the battery and then it won't start.

Follow this test with a full charged battery EXACTLY as listed and let me know the results.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Ok thanks

I suspect you will have a large drain, 2-3 amps that is keeping it awake.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Went to have the battery charged again and it came back bad this time so have to replace it again.
Ok, perform the test with a new battery.
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
We have the new battery and have the door latch blocked with a tool.. negative terminal is also detached from battery. not so sure what a fused jumper wire is, sorry!
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I bought this thing hoping that’s what you mean
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
If that’s the right thing to use, the fuse did not blow. It connected but didn’t blow. So now we have a multimeter, do we connect the black tip to the cable or the terminal or does it matter for this step since the cable and terminal are both negative?
Black lead to battery negative terminal and red lead to negative battery cable. Reversing will only show a negative reading.
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Your meter is on the wrong setting. You have it on volts, turn it all the way clockwise to the dc amp setting.
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Yup. That should be 0.03 or less. 5 amps is huge.
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It’s still going up. :( Will let ya know when it stops at a number.
But let’s see how long it takes to settle down the reading. It takes time for the modules to go to sleep. Make sure the door latch is tripped so it thinks the door is closed and remove anything in the power outlets. And pictures make it easier on my end
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
It’s staying on 5.17 been 15 mins
Ok, that’s your base line. Start pulling fuses. When you put one back in, wait until it reads 5.17 again to pull the next. Pull every fuse and list what each does. It will take time but we will find it. Your on the right track.
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Ok thanks so much!
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
None of the fuses under the hood have did anything. A couple bounced around when reinstalled but landed back to 5.17
Ok, and left dash fuse block?
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
On it now
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
None of the fuses on the driver side panel made a change. Some are missing like the lock fuse doesn’t have a spot to go. Are we suppose to check the relays as well?

OK, if none dropped the power down, then I need to ask if you removed the larger fuse in the underhood fuse block. IF so, then next we need to look for things wired in directly to the battery, the starter is one, alternator is another. After that everything is supposed to go through the fuse block.
You might need to remove the fender brace and look under the fuse block for rodent nests and such.

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On your picture, you have that ADD A FUSE at the top, did you take that whole thing out for testing?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
took it out for testing.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Did not test the larger fuses under hood

Take out EVERY fuse in turn, large fuses, circuit breakers (metal ones), even relays.

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Dont worry about that, its just a blank to be replaced if you want to power the trailer plug.

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HAs the cover been missing from that fuse block?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Ok good deal no it has a cover

Ok, moisture in the fuse block would cause issues as the block is not just a block but a bussed electrical centre.

Any results from any of the fuses?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Just finished the relays, now working on the big fuses
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Broke the teeth on the tool to remove them so trying to find something to improvise with to get the last few out

ok

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Ok checked all fuses and relays and none changed

Ok, so that leaves 3 things.
Alternator, starter or fuse block.

Take the battery cable off of each in turn. The fuse block you can get at once you remove the fender brace and the large cover. There is a bolted on power stud. Remove that and if you find the drain goes away, replace the item you disconnect.

I cannot stress enough that you must make sure you took out EVERY SINGLE FUSE, if you miss even one, then you may replace a fuse block for no reason and that you must also check for any items directly spiced to power.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I made a list of all the fuses as we were going. Some were missing. I can share the list with you
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
25a flash same
15a tbc 2a same (those wouldn’t fit on the last photo)
What about the Lbec, MBEC and large fuses? I see no listing for the change when you removed those.
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
did those, the big ones were the last ones we did

Ok so remove the cables for the fuse block, alternator and starter in turn and se what makes it drop out .

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Do you happen to have steps or pictures on how to remove the cables from the alternator, starter and fuse block? We had to take a break from the last time since it started raining and finally stopped. We set the door back and got the multimeter back to the high baseline

for each, take the large cable off each. In all cases its held on with 1 bolt or screw.

GM Tech (Cam)
GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 30,400
Experience: GM Grand Master Technician 2007. 14 years experience.
Verified
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