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I have a 1989 s10 4.3 Tahoe, when I first bought the truck…

Customer Question
sir I have a 1989...
sir I have a 1989 s10 4.3 Tahoe , when I first bought the truck it was running ok but the engine light would blink very fast and it would lose power , well after further investigating it was the fuse box the Ecmb fuse and eco fuse was shifting out from the back it had a bad connection , so what I did was cut those wires powering that and tied them together and when I did that it ran perfect the best it ever did , also after I cut the wires the instrument lights went out as well with all the gauges and lights , I killed the truck and now it won’t start almost like it’s lost all power I even tried jumping it off and it won’t crank it turns over but that’s it , could something I cut maybe cut the power to other things I needed ? Please help and thank you
Submitted: 1 month ago.Category: Chevy
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I meant ecm* and shorting out
Answered in 12 hours by:
12/27/2017
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago
Pete
Pete, Auto Service Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 31,119
Experience: 14 years GM dealer Technician.
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My name is ***** ***** I am a professional here at Just Answer. I noticed that your question had not received a response and thought I would see if you still need help with this.I apologize for the delay and I hope I can still assist you with this here.

In allot of cases the power input to a fuse is also a power input to other fuses and if you cut the wiring you cut out power to other electronics.I suspect this is what has happened here and you will need to repair the cut wiring and either wire in a wired fuse separate for the ECM B replacement keeping the wires tied in properly to power other components or replace the fuse panel itself or the terminals in it.http://www.car-part.com is a place I use for lots of used good parts and they can ship to you as well.

If more help is needed, use the reply tab to continue our conversation. If no further assistance is needed, kindly rate my service, your 5-star rating is appreciated ( should be a link to click on here or above).You can rate at any time and we can continue to work on your question as this will not close out your question.I work on delivering the best answer and help here but in some cases, it can be difficult to do without seeing the vehicle.

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Is there any way to remove panel off of another truck like mine without cutting any wires like is there a plug or something, because I went to the salvage yard and pulled another fuse block and snipped the wires to connect to my existing wires , can I just buy the whole assembly new or maybe go back to the salvage yard and pull another fuse block without cutting anything
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Unfortunately on these older models they arent a plug and play connection.The power feed for this fuse you cut the wiring on feeds the T/L CTSY 20 amp fuse above the ECM B fuse and the HORN/DIM 20 amp fuse above that.If you can feed the 12-volt signal to these two other wires you would be o.k.

Let me know if you need anything else and feel free to rate my help here or above ( should be a link to click on ) as this is how I receive credit for my time, this can be done at any time and you can still come back here and reply if needed.Your 5-star rating is appreciated

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Well all the wires are snipped now what I really need to know is what needs power to make the truck run again like what fuses need to be powered to have spark and fuel
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

You need power on ECM B and ECM 1 as well as CRANK fuse when cranking to engage the starter and IGN/GAUGES fuse.Once all of these have the power it should start and run.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3whwi28ewl0988/ign-12-27.pdf?dl=0

Let me know if you need anything else and feel free to rate my help here or above ( should be a link to click on ) as this is how I receive credit for my time, this can be done at any time and you can still come back here and reply if needed.Your 5-star rating is appreciated

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Do you know of any wire in the fuse box possibly powers the alternator or charging system ?
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

The IGN-GA fuse which is a 20 amp fuse powers the charging system.It needs power with the key on and engine running.

Let me know if you need anything else and feel free to rate my help here or above ( should be a link to click on ) as this is how I receive credit for my time,this can be done at any time and you can still come back here and reply if needed.Your 5 star rating is appreciated

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
because the battery pretty much stays dead now unless I jump it off , would not having proper voltage to the components make them not activate ?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I will get back with you tomorrow thanks Pete
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

I apologize for the delay as the web site has been having some issues lately.

Does it stay running once jumped off or does it slowly die out to and when it stalls do you have to jump start it again?

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Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Hi, just checking in to see how things are going. Do you need further assistance?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have everything worked back at the fuse box , still no start up , it just cranks and cranks , I don’t ha e a pulse at the injectors and I also have no spark , I noticed two plug ins on the back of the distributor, the connector with a red and white wire has power going to it when the key is on but the other connector with different colors does not have any power going to it I’m assuming this is my issue maybe it’s not giving the signal to pulse the injectors or spark
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Wired back up ***
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Have you had the ignition module tested at all?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
The icm tested good
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

From what I see you should only have one wire with power on it to the module at the distributor.The other wires are leads from the engine computer for signals in and out.

If you remove the distributor cap and rotor look down on the rotorshaft and you will see what is called the pick up coil.See if there is any corrossion or rust on this coil/shaft.This is a separate coil then the external coil and is very common to fail.You can test it.Locate the two wires from it that connect internally to the ignition module inside the distributor and test these for between 500 to 1500 ohms resistance:

To test the pickup coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinity requires replacement of the pickup coil.
Pickup coil continuity is tested using an ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is 500-1,500 ohms

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok i will try this today or this week sometime , i’m getting a whole new distributor soon , do you know if that comes with a new pick up coil and a new ICM attached ?
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

It will come with a new coil and usually the ICM as well.The pickup coil was a common component to cause a no spark and in some cases no injector pulse signal when it failed.

Let me know if you need anything else and feel free to rate my help here or above ( should be a link to click on ) as this is how I receive credit for my time, this can be done at any time and you can still come back here and reply if needed.Your 5-star rating is appreciated

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Also another ? Could a blown fusible link cause an issue with certain components I was thinking maybe when I was rewriring the fuse box I might’ve grounded something out perhaps
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

It sounds like you have the power signals needed so it doesnt sound to be a fusible link issue.I would test the pick up coil for any issues.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Think that may be it got someone to crank it while I had the multi meter connected to the connector and it showed nothing
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

The pickup coil was a common fault.Let me know if the issue is resolved with the distributor is replaced as well if you need anything else.

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I changed the pick up coil and still no crank
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Are you sure all wiring at the fuse panel is o.k. and all fuses are o.k. as well?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
everything is wired correctly , I did noticed when I had that distributor out the little magnet at the top was all cracked up old and fragile , also I believe the ICM might be bad as well just because it tested good at a auto parts store does not mean it is really good , i’m going to change the distributor shaft the ignition coil and Icm and see what happens
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I believe the ignition coil should have some type of resistance unplugged some type of reading
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I don’t know if every connection on the ICM should be receiving 12 V or not because the side that connects to the ignition coil is receiving 12 volts but the other side that connects to the pick up coil and other harness that goes in the back right next to the connector from the ignition coil is fluctuating low volts no greater than 6.4
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Here is the diagram for the ignition module.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x906zijhymn3rth/ign-01-09.png?dl=0

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Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Unfortunately my info does not show that info on those wires.I did find this chart if this helps:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tnshhkaqm5rw8e3/c-01-09.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bni4l16zm3eusbh/co-01-09.png?dl=0

Test Description: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.

1. Two wires are checked, to ensure that an open is not present in a spark plug wire.

1A.If spark occurs with EST connector disconnected, pick-up coil output is too low for EST operation.

2. A spark indicates the problem must be the distributor cap or rotor.

3. Normally, there should be battery voltage at the "C" and "+" terminals. Low voltage would indicate an open or a high resistance circuit from the distributor to the coil or ignition switch. If "C" term. voltage was low, but"+ "term. voltage is 10 volts or more, circuit from "C" term. to ignition coil or ignition coil primary winding is open.

4. Checks for a shorted module or grounded circuit from the ignition coil to the module. The distributor module should be turned "OFF", so normal voltage should be about 12 volts.

If the module is turned "ON", the voltage would be low, but above 1 volt. This could cause the ignition coil to fail from excessive heat. With an open ignition coil primary winding, a small amount of voltage will leak through the module from the "Bat," to the tach terminal.

5. Checks for an open module, or circuit to it. 12 volts applied to the module "P" terminal should turn the module "ON" and the voltage should drop to about 7-9 volts.

6. This should turn "OFF" the module and cause a spark. If no spark occurs, the fault is most likely in the ignition coil because most module problems would have been found before this point in the procedure. A module tester could determine which, is at fault.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok Pete, I changed the whole distributor the ignition coil and the module along with the pickup coi, it’s getting fuel now but still no spark so im down to this problem now just no spark
Chevy Mechanic: Pete, Auto Service Technician replied 1 month ago

Did you follow the diagnostic chart above to see if it lead to the component at fault?

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