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Died on me and no start. 2004 chevy silverado 2500hd 6.6l

Customer Question
died on me and no...
died on me and no start
JA: Will the headlights turn on? Is the battery fully charged?
Customer: yes
JA: What is the model/year of your Chevy?
Customer: 2004 chevy silverado 2500hd 6.6l duramax lb7
JA: Are you fixing your Silverado yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: yes and i have tried alot
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: has a lift pump good batteries, crank cam sensors are good, ficm is good, and ecm is good.
Submitted: 1 month ago.Category: Chevy
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
was driving, did hear some knocking but was not constant with the rpm. have been having heating issues (had a water pump and other things ship in that morning) the temp started to rise to 240 so went to pull over and the truck just shut off. did not want to crank very fast after it cooled down. got it towed back home. checked the codes and got a p0374 code. well checked the cam and crank reluctor wheels no play. pulled glow plugs checked compression a 300 avg with a gauge that reads less than normal. (one glow plug broke off in the head, drilled it out and tapped but is leaking air slightly after i put the new ones in) im going to have to figure that one out, even step drilling it it still isnt 100% centered. anyway put all new glow plugs in and straps. turned over by hand no play in the crank. used a buddies truck and put my crank, cam, ficm, ecm, and tcm on his truck and is started no issue. so im left with wiring and injectors? i do have some frayed wires but only on a ground wire. i ohm the plugs. i am getting 45kohms out of the cam sensor plug on the cam signal wire. but only when the harness is plugged into the ecm. is this normal? i am getting .12 amps out of the ground wire on both the cam and crank sensor plugs. again is this normal? or should i be pulling the harness and looking for more of a short to ground? i have not gotten this code after i have cleared it. only one that keeps showing up is p0700 a trans code. but doubt thats my cause for no start. also would like to note that if i try to hold the key cranking it over it will start to crank slower and slower until it doesnt crank over any more.batteries have been tested (and are fairly new), i ended up braking the starter so have a brand new one to put on it now but the old one did test good but a bolt fell out of it and cracked the starter housing with one bolt. lol
Answered in 12 hours by:
10/19/2017
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago
GM Tech (Cam)
GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 29,591
Experience: GM Grand Master Technician 2007. 14 years experience.
Verified

Hi there, I am Cam.

On your truck, are you able to see live engine data, specifically the actual fuel rail pressure when cranking?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I had a tech 2 for a couple hours and it did make spec fuel rail pressure I forgot off the top of my head but i know I did check that first. Infortunatley a scanner is as good as the user and I wasn't familiar with the tool at all. I did get missed pulses from the cam and crank sensor tho.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I know the ficm, ecm, tcm, crank, and cam sensors are all fine. I put them on a buddies truck and his ran fine. I have a 12v power and ground to both the cam and crank sensor plug. The ground has a .12 amp draw with the key on. And the reference wire has a 45k ohm resistance when hooked only to the ecm. The righ bank injector plugs both had two .12v pins and two .08 bolt pins with the key on.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

What pressure did it make? Please let me know.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
5k I believe
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Did you check the wiring around the 2 large connectors on the side of the engine, drivers valve cover?

Verify integrity of wiring from one end at the sensor to the ECM?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Truck has a 165 lift pump with a fuel filter and water filter and no factory fuel filter housing
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I get continuity from the reference of the cam sensor all the way to the actual ecm plug.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

How about return fuel flow when cranking, if you take the return line of and measure the amount that comes out from exactly 15 seconds cranking?

How about Crank sensor?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I did not test continuity from the crank sensor just yet that goes to the ecm. And I can pull the return line and measure the return fuel rate. If the injectors are not being told to fire will it still return fuel?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok just got continuity from crank sensor plug to ecm plug and both the motor harness and ecm harness had infinit ohms so no short in that wire in the harness.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

The infinite ohms, where was that reading taken?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Taken at the plug on the reference wire with the ficm unhooked and ecm unhooked. So that's what it should be? Which show no brake in the wire or short to ground. Can there be short to positive? I didn't check that.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

If you are testing end to end, you need less than 0.3 ohms. Infinite ohms means the circuit is open. It should read the same as touching the leads pf the meter together.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I put the starter in and cranked for 15sec and got 2oz on the return line by the fuel tank. Should I have measured closer? There was fuel already in the line. The crank stopped at 15 sec completely and drastically slowed down at 10sec
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
No I didn't test end to end. I already checked for continuity end to end which it did. I checked for short to ground by opening the circuit and putting one probe on the reference wire on the plug and one on a ground on the motor.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Ok that may be it. Spec is 1.6 oz, I would check again and be sure to compensate for the fuel that it takes to fill the lines.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Where is the return line on the motor?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

They meet at the quick connects at the valve cover on the drivers side, smaller one is the return.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Also when I did the short to ground check I got 45k ohms from the cam reference plug when hooked to the ecm and infinite on the crank one I believe
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Is there a reason the cranking would drastically start to slow down?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

The cranking starting to slow down suggests the battery may be very weak, or possibly the timing is pushing this too far advanced.

AS for testing resistance through the ECM, we never do that as there is no procedure or spec for that. WE test the outside circuits and if they are good, the ecm is bad.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
The batteries have been tested two times now lol. Load test then a special test at the store that drained them charged them out a load on ext. starter is also brand new. I put the ecm on my friends truck on his started right up. Found it a little weird that it didn't need to do a relearn tho? I am going to the store to pick up fuel line disconnects as I missed places mine. To get an accurate reading. And maybe a cup that measure ml. Because after I placed the cup on level ground it was just under 2oz but no measurements under 2oz or ml.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Ok, let me know how may mls.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Also just out of curiosity do you have a pin out for the ecm? Curious if there's a wire that is connected to the reference wire going to the ecm through the pins. Because when I was checking for a short to ground I checked the 8th pin on the right connector (blue) on the ecm it's self and got infinite ohms. But when I put just that connector on the ecm I get a 45k ohm resistance. Also a possible pin out for the reference wire on the ficm so I can check for 5volts while I have someone crank it? I can probably just check for continuity with the multimeter if you can't find a pin out on the ficm. But for the ecm I don't want to probe through the wires trying to see if there's continuity on a wire coming out of the plug for the reference besides the 8th pin. Just thinking its possible that the return reference wire to the ficm could have a short but it would be between the ecm fuse box and the motor harness? Just not sure what wires connect to where.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
like I said the tech 2 had multiple missed pulses from the crank and cam. Is why I have been chasing wires. Even with a some what out of spec fuel return rate would that still cause a no start? Feel like if it's just a little off it should still run with a hung injector unless it was more than one but the fuel return should be even more that 2 oz? If 1.6 is spec.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Also do u know how many amps the should be drawn from the battery while cranking? Or how many volts it should drop?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

It must not drop below 9.6 volts, and typically the starter draw is around 200-250 amps.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so not gonna amp test that. Built I will test the volts
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Volts is not the way to test, the 9.6 is a rule of thumb,.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
This was right out of the small return line on the motor
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

That is too much. Spec is 24-36 mls. That means your injectors are dropping to much pressure. WE need to get the tech 2 back and look the actual fuel rail pressure again. Spec to start is 10 MPA. Below that the injector will simply not fire.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have a fuel pressure gauge. I can wire it to to stay on. That should give me accurate pressure?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I thought 1.6oz was spec? Isn't that 47ml?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Spec is 3-5mls per injector depending on fuel API. Winter fuel gets closer to the 5mls, but without being able to test that, we need to go with 4 mls per injector so that is 32mls with is less than 1.6. 40 mls is 1.6oz.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok I'll hook up my fuel pressure gauge and watch it and do one more test with the bottle to make sure. Cuz I did it a second time and only got like 25ml but the it started to crank slowly. Possible that it's getting false pulses for injection and it's filling my cylinders with fuel and is why it slows down?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

It has to crank at proper speed for this to be accurate.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Fuel r
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Fuel rail pressure was went to 5k and abt hit 7k
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok did it again. And for the 15 sec. I have a fuel pressure video I'm trying to figure out a way to send it to u or post a link. The fuel pressure goes from 5k and rises as the motor begins to slow down. When it slows down the most right before 15sec it hit 10k fuel rail pressure
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
https://youtu.be/XutPYoTBINU
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Posted the video on YouTube so you could see the rail pressure
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

OK so we need to look at other electronics, the FICM, how did you tell it was good? Is it getting power? Communicating with the ECM?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I put the ficm on a friends truck and it ran without issue. Did this with the ecm Tim crank sensor and cam sensor too. One at a time till all the computers were on my friends truck.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

They work in his, but that does not rule out wiring to the FICM from yours.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Right. That's why I have been focusing on the wiring. And followed that resistance to the ecm. I'll have to find the reference wire pin on the ficm and follow it to the ecm. I know the ficm has ground and so does the ecm. I believe I checked that already
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

The FICM gets power on the 25 amp EDU fuse through each connector.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Has one 12v power on each plug. My probes are to big to fit in the small pin holes
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
After I turned the key back off I can watch the volts slowly drop on the power to both connectors but doesn't seem to 0 out .01 or .02 volts still
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Thats odd. It should have solid 12v on 1 large pin in each connector.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It does when the key is on. Let me check the volts of it rn and see if it went down to 0 yet. Key has been off
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Both had a full 1.0v and counted down to .02 again
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Un hooked the bottom plug of the ecm harness on the motor and voltage went right to 0 on both connectors. Possible short?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so this would be short to power? So I have to follow that on the wiring to hopefully find my problem. Just follow the low voltage prong to prong?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Wait, you say you only have 1 volt??

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
1-.5 volts on that power wire with key off. I have it at the fuse too. I unplug the clear left connector to the ecm and the volts 0 out
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

you should have battery voltage, 12-15 volts. IF not swap the EDU relay around.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I should have that voltage even with the key off?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

No only run and start.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so pulled the relay and inspected it and it looked a little cracked on the bottom. So put a different one in it and for shits and giggles tried to fire it. Still No fire but got p0193 and p0090 gonna check where the gauge ties in to make sure wires are not broke.
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Ok, also check under the fuse block for signs of rodents.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Getting continuity for the where it ties in to to the plug. Anything else that would make throw those codes? I can pull the fuse box out and check. Any fuse that can control the fuel pressure?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so tested fuses all seemed good and replaced gummy looking ones for the heck of it. Cleared out the connector back on fuel pressure sensor and cranked. Cranked slowly and threw a p0700
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Can't get the truck to crank fast now. Drops to 4 volts while cranking batteries are at 12v
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

P0193 is a fuel pressure sensor issue, often that is wiring. P0700 is simply that the transmission module is requesting the check engine light be put on and that it has its own codes stored.

If the batteries are dropping that much then we must get them back. Dropping that low will not allow modules to work.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
What do you mean get them back should I have them load tested again? The read 12 volts and was cranking they same until I I changed the relay and swapped fuses. Possible draw from somewhere?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

No, but I suspect your batteries are too weak, if voltage is dropping to 4 volts and its cranking slow, we need to fix that next.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I will have to take the batteries in and get them tested but go back to work tmw. So will try to tinker with it b4 and after. If batteries test good I will take the starter back to be tested. It's brand new as of td. But doesn't mean it couldn't Be bad
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

It could be bad connections as well. either way lets reconnect when its cranking better. .

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so let it charge on 10amp whir I was gone. Got back and it cranks good now for a full 15sec. I can check the return flow more accurate now i feel. But no codes after three 15 sec cranks.. ugh all that work and square one again? Lol
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Ok, how about the power at the pink wires at the fuel injection control module?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Gets 12v with key on but still doesn't 0.00 out with key of .03-.01 volts
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Ok, how about testing with the test light, 12v is a potential, but what about actual power handling capacity? Test light that shines bright is the test.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Should aluminate with the test light no problem with the key on its making 12.53v and has ground to both connectors o can check that tho when I get back home. The .03-.01 volts with key off won't light it
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

It should yes, key off it won't and thats fine.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
since it's still getting these volt readings with the key off that's an issue I need to find correct? I followed it up to the ecm. When I unplug it at the ecm it drops to 0. Is there an electrical diagram for the power wire to the ficm? So I can narrow down where the voltage is coming from? Or is it possible bad relays not completely shutting off the power?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Its more likely that you 0.01-0.03 volts key off is in the meter. spending any time looking for that is a waste of your time.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok. So what is my next step? Still have not gotten any codes. Check for voltage coming from cam and crank sensor to make sure there isn't an issue with the reluctor wheels? I know they are not loose and didn't see any teeth missing on the crank besides the gap it is suppose to have. But wasn't able to visually inspect cam one very good. And since it is cranking better I will get an accurate return rate I will do that also. As much as I don't mind head ache problems because those are freeing.. a bad computer module would have been nice at this point -_-
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

We need to follow through the attached no run diagnostics. I have a feeling that the limited scan data may be our stumbling block but see what you can do.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so checked a couple things. Fuel rail pressure is Normal now 5-6k psi not spiking 10k on crank. Cranks normal for 15sec got 46-47ml of fuel from the return line on the driver side valve cover. Those is with the ficm hooked up. Safe to say the injectors are not firing? I will go through that list as soon as I can and check what I can
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok so was really thinking about possibilities. If the ignition switch goes will this cause my symptoms? I ask this because. When the truck died I lost my prnd123 lights but I thought it may because I tried jumping it at the starter and the ignition 1 fuse was blow. A week before this happened I would randomly get a p0840 and truck would jerk like fuel was getting shut off and back on. Not in the last few times I have been trying to start it, but I was getting a p0700 code (obviously a tranny code) but just trying to crank it, also noticed when I turned the key to the On position the dash lights didn't come back on until I turned the key off and back on again. Any way to properly test that switch?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

For this issue the pink feed at the switch is the ignition feed.
Pop the tilt lever out and take the lower trim of the column off. With your multimeter set to DC volts, place the red lead on the red wire. With the switch turned on, test the other leads with the black wire. Record the reading and let me know what those are. Repeat the test on the red/white wire. Let me know the results.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok will do when I get back home from work. Been working 1pm Friday to 4pm today with 4-5 hour down time. I work as a heavy duty diesel mechanic ironically Lol. Ticks me off I can not grasp head way on this issue. Compression, cranking rpm is reading, ecm, Tcm, ficm worked on my friends truck. injectors are not stuck open, fuel is good to my knowledge was just filled from Kroger the night before. I did think maybe my dp5 switch for my tuning was the issue but took that apart and it is not. On the factory tune setting. And the switch drops the voltage to efi spec. Will definitely check that voltage when I get back tho! Thank you for your help this far! Wasn't sure where I could get all the information I needed to continue diagnose with out a tech 2. And if this keeps up I may order one of amazon for 200-400$ just to have. Is there a way I can order a indepth service/trouble shoot manual like the links you are sending me? Would be nice to have in the future
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Also I have the stock fuel filter housing removed because of the air fog 165 G2 lift pump that has filters. I don't believe there was any sensors on the stock filter housing besides the water separator correct?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

The stock filter had the water in fuel sensor and a fuel heater, so nothing that would be required to make it run.

AS the one I sent is from the GM manual, the closest is Alldata. They actually have paid for the rights to reproduce GM's manuals. This is important for the schematics. Some others only make their own and there are mistakes. I can only assume ALLDATADIY uses the same but specific to one vehicle.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Wondering if I can get my hands on a gm one through my friend who I borrowed the gm tech 2 I will have to ask. Will the amazon tech 2 be able to diagnose this issue like the gm one? I know some techs at his shop use that because it's a lot cheaper than factory gm. And would you be able to tell me over the computer by chance how to run the diagnostics? I couldn't seem to get into any injector information with out the truck idling and the only crank and cam sensor checks I could get were the missed pulses. I had the scanner for maybe an hour or two trying to figure it out. Lol
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
At ground (black)
Acc
Orange
Pink
No power
Key on
12v to every other wireWhen at hot (red)
Rear 3 wires have .01 volts
Pink
Red
Black
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

If the tech 2 has the proper programming in it then it should do everything the GM one does.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
If my fuel rail pressure regulator was stuck closed how would I test that?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
My fuel rail pressure gauge is tied in to the wire for to the sensor. So would that show actual rail pressure or desired?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Closed or open? The regulator on the pump if it has no power it demands full pressure.
The rail pressure sensor only shows actual, and only if the sensor is operating properly.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
If the fuel rail pressure regulator was stuck closed? Would this cause a no start? Or only if it's stuck open?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Its possible, yes, but then why would the actual rail pressure show what it does, unless your gauge is incorrect.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok. Just making sure. The gauge is tied into the wire on the fpr. Which I'm assuming there's a 12v power and a ground then a reference wire?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

I think a 5 volt, ground and signal.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hmm I know it has 12v and ground could that be something to look into now?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
none of those wires should have 12v?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

Not the fuel pressure sensor, no.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok. I will have to look into it because I checked it when I had the plug out and the plug had a 12v power a ground and a reference wire which I thought was right. But now I'll have to look into it
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Also any way a bad coolant temp sensor or fuel temp sensor can cause the fuel injectors to not fire? When this happened the truck temp went to 240. And sitting on the side of the road with the key on temp kept rising and then coolant hot light came on. But no coolant out the over flow or anything?
Chevy Mechanic: GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician replied 1 month ago

I have not heard of the coolant temp sensor causing the injectors to cut out.

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Ron Z.

Ron Z.

- Chevy Tech -

2,682 satisfied customers

18+yrs experience. State Inspector and Chevy Diagnostics

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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

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