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1987 chevy 2500 5.7L motor threw a rod. replaced motor with

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1987 chevy 2500 5.7L motor threw...
1987 chevy 2500 5.7L
motor threw a rod. replaced motor with crate VIN K from Summit Racing, should be Direct replacement for for this truck. came with head, valve covers installed, oil pump and pan installed. i installed all my accessories... new sensors, new water pump, new radiator, new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. i set my timing with light at right on 0 at the notch on balancer. used NAPA Gold 1060 oil filter and Valvoline conventional 5w30 oil.got truck on the road today. first 6 i pulled to gas station to pump gas, parked truck and noticed oil pressure gauge at 15psi at hot idle. running i have about 45 psi. i feel as if that low for brand new engine.
also
coolant temp is staying at like 235 degrees on gauge but when i got out and put my infrared temp gun on hose right about thermostat housing i read 190-195 or so.what should oil pressure be at?
why could temp gauge be getting hot, if new radiator and water pump with green coolant, thermostat and hose all new? i did hook the heat back up up. ran hose from back of intake to core line on right side and left side core line to radiator
Submitted: 1 month ago.Category: Chevy
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Answered in 8 minutes by:
10/13/2017
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago
George H.
George H., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 18,901
Experience: GM Tech ASE Master Tech 15+ years
Verified

Hello I will help,

The oil pressure is very normal, some are at 7psi at hot idle so your clearances are good.

Can you read on the body of the temp sensor? If you still have 190 or so that is good temps. The problem is in the sender.

Did the engine come with a sensor or did you swap from the old engine?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I installed all new sensors. The coolant temp I believe was next to tstat housing to the passenger side on intake right?
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Yes, that is the location. Dark green wire?

I would install the sender from the old engine, they do have senders with different values so it is worth a shot before diagnosis.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
What is the sender?
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

It is the sensor that sends a signal to the gauge. Yours should have a single dark green wire. If you swap it out and the gauge reads normally your replacement had too low of resistance.

Please let me know if you have further questions, if nothing further please complete the rating

Thanks

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I'll have to look for the old one. In the morning.
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Ok, let me know what happens.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
On intake to the right if tstat housing I out a new sensor. It a 2 wire. One black and one yellow.... on the driver side cylinder head I have a 1 wire sensor with a solid dark green wire. That is the old sensor it had on last engine.
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

I forgot about what they did here! They label the one at the stat as the gauge sensor and the one in the head as the computer sensor but if you look at the wiring diagrams and wire colors they are reversed. The one on the head with the single wire is the gauge sender. You can check by grounding the wire and turn the key on for a minute. The gauge should swing full hot, lift the wire and wait and the gauge should swing full cold.

If the gauge swings full sweep then the problem is in the sender. Not sure why your old sender is not reading correctly, you need to check the temp at the body of the sender, you might have a hot spot in the head.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
What could a hot spot at the head mean
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

You may not have coolant flow through that area or an air pocket. If one of the passages from the block to the head were obstructed by a head gasket not punched properly or debris in the hole it could be hotter. You can unscrew the sensor and see if any air comes out but I would measure the temp on the body of the sensor first, if it is the same as the gauge reading then something is not right with the flow but if it is 190 and the gauge is at 235 then the sensor or the wiring is the problem.

Have you check the voltage while running at the battery posts?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Sensor ok n side of head on infrared gun climb to about 325 degrees. Sensor on intake 170-175ish .. hose on tstat about the same maybe a little higher ... shooting laser at the body of sensor
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

325??? How much of the exhaust heat did you catch there? Can you check each pipe on the manifold about the same place and see if they are all about the same?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Got right at the sensor. Idler for 10 min after running 10 miles. It's at like 225.. manifold ports in 400s
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Just drove 6 miles and pulled over. Temp at side sensor is like 285 and sensor at intake and tstat housing in the mis 225s. Can I drive home it's 40 miles away ? It doesn't get any hotter on gauge
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago
We're there heat shields on the old setup that didn't get transferred to this one? Sounds like the manifold heat is getting into the sensor. If you don't get over 225 at the stat you can drive it. Your boiling point is 253 with 50 50 mix and a 15 lb cap at sealevel
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Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago
You should have a cooler stat in this. It may not be opening or the timing may be off. I know you said you checked them but that was at 190. Now you have 225? Something is not allowing heat to transfer out of the engine
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Just got home. Hose right at tstat shows 235 ish and sensor too.. Sensor at side of head was 258ish ... called napa and the tstat I ordered was a 190
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Then you need to pull the stat and be sure the radiator is clear with good flow. The shroud is in place for the fan, the fan is turning the proper direction to pull air through the radiator and double check the timing.

This engine is running hot so it is either poor water flow from stat not fully open, waterpump not moving the water from vanes facing the wrong direction (wrong pump for application), pump being turned the wrong direction from improper belt routing, timing incorrect or any combination of the above.

Fan not moving air through the radiator due to missing shroud or turning the wrong direction from belt routing or wrong fan installed or mounted too far out of the shroud.

Timing incorrect?

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Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Your engine should have heat buttons glued to the head, make sure the center of those are intact. If they melted out then your warranty melted with it.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Radiator is new. Water pump is also new. Ordered from NAPA auto parts with them year make and model. . Fan shroud is in place correctly. Used the same fan from old engine..
I can see maybe the timing or belt routing being wrong.
Do you have a belt route diagram? And how should I check timing?. I used timing light and it would light the 0 right at the notch.. could be wrong though
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I never did see any heat buttons or anything. Where would they be
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

I understand new. New only means it never ever worked before so you need to check them..

I don't have a routing diagram, do you have V belts or a serpentine setup?

Is the waterpump driven by the ribbed or V part of the belt or the back of the belt?

https://www.engineheattabs.com/faq

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Belt is on correctly there was a diagram under the hood. WP is driven off the back smooth side of belt.. how I do I check timing and what shoukd it be
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Good on the routing now did you get the right pump? Do you have the brand and part number?

Timing

1 Warm engine\

2 disconnect vacuum from distributor

3 connect timing light to #1 plug wire

4 run engine at 700 rpm and set distributo to show 8 degrees BTDC on the timing tab

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I don't have vacuum hose on distributor. I unplugged the tan wire connection up by the passenger side on fore wall .. is 700 rpm about idle? I don't have an rpm gauge on this truck
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Water pump was from napa auto parts and part number 43114
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

OK, these were transition years so not all the same.

If you have a timing wire then do all of the above except sub the wire disconnect for the vacuum hose.

The spec for your engine is 0 degrees. Computer will control idle speed

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok I'll check that in a bit. Have to go get light from the shop. I'll let you know later
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

OK, that is a reverse rotation water pump so follow the belt and see that it turns the pump in the opposite direction from the clockwise rotation of the crankshaft. With the back of the belt driving it should.

Most things seem normal to this point, you may try watching the timing advance when you speed up the engine. Set it first then reconnect the wire and check that the computer is giving you more advance as the engine speeds up.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Oh man. I just realized my question says 1987 my truck is actually a 1989. That was my mistake. But I think everything we talk about is still on point for an '89
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

That is OK, as long as it wasn't an '86 or before. These were when they changed the whole engine management, front and rear oil seals and intake/head design so the break year is critical. As long as all your parts bolted up you have the correct one. They will not fit the earlier years.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I set timing at 0 right at the center of bigger notch. With the tan wire disconnected. I righted down dist hold down bolt and was still right at 0. When I hook tan wire back up. The line on the harmonic balancer is not at zero
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

When you connect the wire the computer controls the timing. If the timing light has a dial turn it to bring the mark back to zero and read the number from the dial. That is how many degrees the computer adjusted the timing. You set the initial timing with the dial on 0

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It has no dial. Hooked up to battery and spark 1 wire when you turn truck on, light automatically comes on. It has no dial or buttons
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

OK, then you can't measure the computer advance but you can see that it is controlling the timing so that is normal.

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Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Well that is about right. Remember that sensor is right by the exhaust and read much hotter than the thermostat one so real temp is down about 190 where it should be.

I don't think you answered if there were heat shields on the old one that didn't get transferred to the new one? If you did I missed it.

Try wrapping the sensor in aluminum foil shiny side out and see if it reads much cooler. If it does you know what is going on then.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Sorry no shields on old manis.. these are new stock manifolds that have a little shield. I'll take a picture. And will try foil trick after lunch.
Chevy Mechanic: George H., ASE Certified Technician replied 1 month ago

Those are the standard shields so they should work but try the foil.

OK, I will be going to my mom's (she is 99) for Sunday dinner in about an hour and will be offline for about 30 minutes. Back for an hour then off for 1.5 - 2 and back for the rest of the night.

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