Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
hello, my name is ***** ***** I will be glad to assist you. please allow me a couple of minutes to gather some basic info.Roy
by doing that tells me it is running lean. you need to adjust the idle mixture screws at the bottom of the carb.
no, you can do it your self. remove the air filter assembly. use a light and see if the screws have regular flat heads or torx heads. you may need to get the tool for them if they do. parts stores carry them for about 10 bucks.
then with the engine warm, adjust one side at a time out a little bit. the engine rpm will rise. back out the screw until the engine does not increase rpm any more. do it to both sides.
you bet. send me the pictures
like I said before, you may have to remove the carb and remove the caps to access the screws.
it is not that hard
yes you did and I responded to that saying they cannot adjust a carb to your engine without it being on the truck.
you will need a 5/8 line wrench to remove the fuel line.
a 3/4 wrench to remove the line for booster in the rear.
flat head screw driver to remove vacuum lines and choke wire.
3/8 rachet, 3 inch extension and 1/2 inch socket to remove the 4 bolts that hold it to the manifold
after you remove it, the caps have to be removed and then re install the carb. then you will adjust the carb with the engine running
they are on the bottom of the carb in the front
yep, I hear you. we will deal with that once you get the caps off.
the site will block it. cannot give out personal info. I know what the carb looks like. I have rebuilt hundreds of them over the years.
yes there is.
the fuel enters through the venturi in the carb. the gasket does not seal off fuel, just vacuum
the accelerator cable has a clip you remove and it comes right off.
the trans cable underneath you have to slide the black connector forward to remove it from the linkage.
no need to worry about the black caps. they are vacuum blocks
the trans cable on the bot***** *****nkage, take the black piece, hold the throttle closed and slid it forward to release. you need 2 hands to do it.
you have the accelerator cable off.
the bottom cable that goes to the bracket. the end that is on the carb linkage slides forward to remove.
yes that is the cable. the black end on the carb linkage slides forward to remove. it is tight but slides forward.
just take a screw driver and pry it off. it goes over the rubber on the carb mount
got kid duty. be back on around 3
nice, caps are already off. they are the screws.
you need the tool for adjusting.
let me see if I can find it
now you have a great view of the screws you will be turning.
also, good experience for you.
yep, paint away
is it the line or the carb that is stripped??
yep, that is a problem. you are going to need to find a fitting with longer threads to grab the good ones inside. you can try NAPA.
easy to remove. remove the belts, fan assembly lower hose and heater hose at the top. the alternator bracket and power steering brackets have to be moved. then 4 bolts and it is off.
a new one is cheap. a rebuilt is about 30 bucks
no, the new pump will come un painted. you can paint it prior to installation.
yes, air compressor and ratchet are good tools. good addition to your tool box
ok harbor freight has a 21 gallon stand up with 125 psi. more than enough for you. only 149
compressors are not quiet at all. they have a motor running to produce the air pressure.
you will need a 25 foot air hose. you will need fittings to attach the air hose to the compressor and also to the air equipment you are using. you can get them at any parts store as they are extremely common. not expensive at all.
as far as the air tools, I would go to a harbor freight and they have kits that have air gun, ratchet and hammer in one kit. you will need sockets as well.