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GM Tech (Cam)
GM Tech (Cam), Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 15201
Experience:  GM Grand Master Technician 2007. 14 years experience.
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Cranks but won't start not even with starting fluid in the

Customer Question

Cranks but won't start not even with starting fluid in the TB
JA: Have you checked the engine's fuel supply? And the spark plugs -- are they all working?
Customer: Yes Won't even start with starting fluid just cranks Brand new starter and battery ranand started fine yesterday
JA: What is the model/year of your Chevy?
Customer: 95
JA: Are you fixing your 9-5 yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: I am
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: It started and ran fine yesterday than sat out in the cold last night now it just cranks over
Submitted: 6 months ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

Hello. My name is ***** ***** I will be assisting you. Have you checked the vehicle for codes?

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

If You are getting fuel and spark, then you may have a cam or crank sensor issue.

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

I need your year make and model, please.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
95 Chevy k2500 4WD pickup Ext cab
Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Just went out and tried to start again almost fired over. There is a CEL light on although I only have an OBD2 Scanner so I can not check them.
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

Give me a few, let me check a few things.

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

I'm assuming 5.7?

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Yeah 5.7 TBI
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

Yes. Just a few minutes.

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

I'm back. Right now, I'm thinking ignition control module. I have instructions her for you to access and read the trouble codes.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Okay what do I do?BTW I did
Check that the 8 cylinders are getting spark with a spark tester.
If spark exists in all 8 cylinders, this then wouldnt this confirms that
The distributor cap is good.
The ignition coil is good.
The ignition control module is good.
The crankshaft position sensor is good?
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

No, just because you are getting spark, doesn't mean you are firing on time/properly. Check the trouble codes with these instructions.....

READING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES: The means of communicating with the control module is the Data Link Connector (DLC) located under the instrument panel and is sometimes covered by a plastic cover labeled "DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR." The DLC is used in the assembly plant to receive engine information to determine proper operation before it leaves the plant. The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) stored in the control module memory can be displayed by counting the number of flashes of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) (Service Engine Soon) when the diagnostic terminal of the DLC is grounded. The DLC terminal "B" (diagnostic terminal) is the second terminal from the right of the DLC top row. The terminal is most easily grounded by connecting it to terminal "A" (internal control module ground), which is located to the right of terminal "B" on the top row of the DLC. When terminals "A" and "B" have been connected, the ignition switch must be turned to the "ON" position with the engine NOT operating. The MIL (Service Engine Soon) should flash DTC 12 three times consecutively. This would be the following flash sequence: One flash, pause, two flashes, long pause, one flash, pause, two flashes, long pause, one flash, pause, two flashes. DTC 12 indicates that the control module diagnostic system is operating properly. If DTC 12 is NOT indicated, a fault is present within the diagnostic system itself, and should be addressed by consulting the appropriate diagnostic chart. Following the output of DTC 12, the MIL will indicate any DTC three times consecutively. However if no other codes are present will continue to repeat DTC 12. If more than one diagnostic trouble code has been stored in the control module memory, the DTC's will be displayed from the lowest to the highest with each DTC being displayed three times. DIAGNOSTIC MODE: When the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition "ON" and the engine "OFF," the system will enter the diagnostic mode. In this mode, the control module will: - Display a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 12 by flashing the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Service Engine Soon" (indicating that the system is operating properly). - Display any stored DTC's by flashing the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Service Engine Soon." Each DTC will be flashed three times, then DTC will be flashed again. - Energize all control module controlled relays and solenoids except the fuel pump relay. This allows checking circuits which may be difficult to energize without driving the vehicle and being under particular operating conditions. - Move the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve to its fully extended position on most models, blocking the idle air passage. This is useful in checking the minimum idle speed. FIELD SERVICE MODE: If the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system will enter the "Field Service" mode. In this mode, the MIL "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will indicate whether the system is in OPEN or CLOSED LOOP operation. If the system is in OPEN LOOP operation, the light will flash approximately two and one-half times per second. CLOSED LOOP operation is indicated by the light flashing approximately once per second. Also, in "CLOSED LOOP" the light will stay "OFF" most of the time if the system is running lean. It will stay "ON" most of the time if the system is running rich. While the system is in the "Field Service" mode, new codes cannot be stored in the control module and the "CLOSED LOOP" timer is bypassed.

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Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

I couldn't send the image together with the instructions, but here is the image in reference...

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

I'm confident that you will find that the ignition control module, cam or crank sensor will be your issue. It has to be a problem with the ignition system, and from experience, I would check these things before replacing anything, of course.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Code# *****
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

give me a few to check.

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

Oxygen sensor and Knock sensor...

DTC 13 - Oxygen O2S Sensor Circuit (Open Circuit) DTC 14 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp.) DTC 15 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp.) DTC 21 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit (High Sig.) DTC 22 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit (Low Sig.) DTC 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit Low DTC 32 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Error DTC 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High (Low Vacuum) DTC 34 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum) DTC 42 - Ignition Control (IC) Error DTC 43 - Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit DTC 44 - Lean Exhaust DTC 45 - Rich Exhaust DTC 51 - PROM Problem DTC 52 - PROM (CAL-PAK) Missing DTC 54 - Fuel Pump Relay (Low Voltage) DTC 55 - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

You could have a timing issue. This would create this code and your condition. I would check these issues at hand, but I would still check the ignition control module and verify the timing.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
The CEL has been on for awhile now even after starting and running fine.
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

That was a warning that there was an issue occurring. The problem there, but just not as pronounced. Eventually the circuit died completely, and that has us at this point. I'm inclined to believe that the ignition control module would be you're issue. I would have it tested. I would also test the distributor and also verify the timing.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Sprayed starting fluid in the TB this morning and cranked her over, was about to start than the throttle body caught on fire literally
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

Wow. Did you over saturate it with fluid?

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
A few short burst sprays. But there was probably some left in it from yesterday. At this point idk where to start I don't want to start a fire again I do have am extinguisher close by though just in case
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

If the module is at fault, you spraying starter fluid will not help the issue. If your timing is at fault, spraying starting fluid will not help the issue. What you did was build up the fluid in the TB and when it got to a point where it could ignite, you got your fire. Now, on top of the ignition control issue, you may have damaged something else.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Do you have any recomendations for a rebuilt kit?
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

You can always check online places like 1A-Auto if you are trying to avoid your local auto part store.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
do you have doccuments or pdfs on how to test the ICM with a multimeter and spark tester or test light?
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

I will check.

Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

Here you are...

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
does not really go about how to test the component rather is shows me how to pull codes? yesterday I mentioned it had 15, and 43
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

That's all that I am offered under that section. I would remove it and test for continuity and resistance. Since I don't know the actual specs, I would go to the local auto part store that has one in stock and compare the readings.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Replaced the ICM and the injectors still no start its so close to starting. I can smell raw fuel as well and checked fuses.
Expert:  Todd M replied 6 months ago.

If your plugs are firing, then the vehicle maybe supplying excess amounts of fuel to them. Try disabling the fuel pump(removal fuse) and controlling the flow with starter fluid.

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