Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi! Welcome to JustAnswer. Thanks for coming! I'm Ron Z and I'll be helping you with your question today. Please give me a moment to review your question and prepare your answer. Be right back.
Thanks for holding!
If the electronic power steering is not working, first, check the fuse labeled "EPS" in the under-hood fuse block. It's a 60a fuse. If the fuse is good, then more commonly, this will be a problem with the electric motor itself. The motor is located under the driver's side dash, mounted to the steering column. Inspect the electrical connector for any loose, broken or damaged wires and for any signs of water intrusion. If the visual inspection checks ok, replace the power steering motor. I've wrapped up the procedure to replace the motor into a PDF file, here: https://goo.gl/rJ09bO
Please remember to leave a rating using the 'stars' or click 'Accept'. A 5-star rating is much appreciated! Rating or accepting my answer does not cost you extra.
Hi! I noticed this thread was still open, so I wanted to check in and see how you made out with this? Any other questions you had? Was there something you wanted addressed that I may have missed in my answer?
Ok. Sounds good. Make sure to double-check that fuse I mentioned as well. Especially if the vehicle had recently been jump-started, or used to jump another vehicle. Let me know how you make out!
Sorry for the delay. The next item to look into would be the steering control module. But, unfortunately, I can't seem to find a testing procedure for it. Check the fuse "EPS/STR WHL CNTRL" in the fuse block on the right side of the center console.
The only other thing I can think of, like I say, would be the control module. It's a little further up on the column from the motor. It has 3 electrical connectors- 2 black, 1 grey. Like I say though, no testing procedures. Which probably means the only way to test is with a high-end scan tool. No electrical info provided. I'd hate to see you spend the money without testing.
It would require a shop that has a scan-tool that can interact with the body control systems. It's a higher-end scan-tool. It does not need to be programmed. Unfortunately, no repair manual procedure on the replacement either. No idea why. It is a control module, so yes, it will be on the expensive side. This is why I said I hate to see you spend the money without proper testing.
Drive it a bit. If the fuse pops and/or the dash light reappears, good chance the module is the culprit.