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Master Auto Tech.
Master Auto Tech., A.S.E. Certified Master Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 600
Experience:  Over 20 years working on imports and domestic cars
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2003 Silverado Base 2WD; I recently replaced clutch. After

Customer Question

2003 Silverado Base 2WD; I recently replaced clutch. After completed job several things happened. Valves pinging with acceleration; after about 5 miles engine goes into limp mode. The engine will not shut off when key turned off. ( To turn off I need to put in gear with brake on let out clutch. None of these issues prior to removing transmission for clutch replacement
JA: Is the car in "Park" or "Neutral?" Do you know if your car has a "wheel lock" feature?
Customer: Standard shift , in neutral or first gear when stopped. No wheel locks.
JA: What is the model of your '03 Chevy?
Customer: Silverado 1500 2WD base reg cab (no bells/ wisles)
JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: Hope to fix myself. Do most repairs and maintenance myself. Clutch job was a bit more than i anticipated.
I've checked vac hoses. wiring. plugs that were disconnected to remove tranny. All seem OK.
JA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?
Customer: Last night when I was driving, when I turned on bright lights, engine went into limp mode. Also AC has not worked since clutch job. I keep thinking there is a shorted wire somewhere and all is related.
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Chevy Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
I'm sorry you are having problems with your vehicle. I will try to help.I'm a full time mechanic and have been a mechanic for over 20 yrs and I work part-time here on JustAnswer to help you and others repair their own vehicles, and I get credited by your ratings.. So before leaving the site make sure and leave me a rating. You can still reply to me as many times as neeed, even after the rating.. I will need for you to be my hands and eyes since I'm not there.So there are a few grounds that hook to the engine and transmission that you may have left off. Especially I believe right behind the intake the hooks to the bell housing bolts. It could cause some of thes problems.Let me know if this helps.Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will check later today and let you know
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
Ok cool. Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ground seemed to be OK but I might want to bypass it with a back up ground as I can't access past the first 3 inches of wire, it is buried in the harness above the bell housing. But the Problem still exists: valves pinging, engine won't turn off, AC not working (could be unrelated to other issues). I will be happy to get engine to run well again and turn off when key is removed.
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
Did you remove your intake when you did the job?
Also would you mind telling me what engine you have? V6? 4.8? 5.3?And besides the transmission what else did you remove?Battery cable? Intake? Starter of course. Everything you remember. It will help.Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Well this clutch job probably separates the men from the boys; should have stayed in boys club. It is a V6 4.3 L, transmission is 5 speed; drivetrain 2 wd. Besides transmission, drive shaft, pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing with slave cylinder I removed the following: Rear Cross member, I started to remove y pipe but got into trouble with manifold studs so I left it and actually was able to do the job with it in. Removed starter but did not disconnect wires just rested it on front crossmember. Unplugged transmission from harness (2 plugs), all 4 O2 sensors (prior to bailing on y pipe removal), brake line bracket (attached to top bell housing bolt). I did not remove battery cable, intake or exhaust manifolds.
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
Ok cool. I'm assuming all 4 o2's are plugged in and in the right spots?
Also would you mind checking all fuses both inside and under the hood?And I don't think you should give up on repairing yourself. This is a fluke thing. :-)
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
Let me know what you find.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks. All 4 O2 sensor plugs plugged into right place but will recheck. I will check fuses, then get back to you.
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good. Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
All fuses check out ok. Not sure about the relays but none look fried. Agree this is a fluke thing. Checked again under truck for any loose wires/ grounds. Cant find any. I was sure there was a ground to one of the cross member bolts but could not find a loose one anywhere. And I installed all of the bolts without wires. Seems like something is shorting out the ECM or the Body control module.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Also the ignition wires to starter look frayed. Was going to check these next time I can crawl under the truck, ran out of time today.
Expert:  Master Auto Tech. replied 1 year ago.
Yea I agree it sounds like something is causing the ecm to go wacky. I still think it's a ground issue of sorts. Do this, hook jumper cables to the battery ground both of the cables to the ground on the battery. The other side hook to the engine block and to the body somewhere. See how it runs and see if it shuts off with the key.Let me know
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I tried grounding battery to block and body, also to frame, no change, still won't shut off, valves detonating with acceleration in any gear.
One weird fluke keeps happening...when I turn on the bright lights, the engine immediately goes into limp mode and stalls. Definite short somewhere. was going to try taking off the steering wheel shroud make sure the wiring isn't shorting to the ignition switch at that level or under dash.

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