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GM avalanche: I have an 04 avalanche with 334 thousand miles…

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I have an 04 avalanche...
I have an 04 avalanche with 334 thousand miles about this time last year started having problems with reduced engine power maybe once every 3 dayswhich eventually led to much more frequently up to 20 to 25 times a day. if I disconnected the negative cable and hook it back up it would start and run fine for who knows how long eventually led to a no crank situation, found the throttle body control motor circuits were shorted to each other which led toa fried PCM. Made repairs & all was good until now...reduced engine power again only this time it's much more random before It would just shut down to almost an idle and now this time will go off and the display will show reduced engine but it will maintain speed maybe flutter a little bit and then eventually start slowing down. I Know the PCM & throttle actuator control motor was the effect... could you please tell me what the cause was then and now. 5.3, 4x4 w/ 0 aftermarket parts. Oh yah, sometimes just before going into reduced engine power the doors will unlock and lock and unlock Again and then shut down and upon restarting the driver side a_c vents blow really hot air while the pas.r side continues with cold air and trust me the driver is already hot. thank you
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Chevy
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Answered in 6 hours by:
6/10/2015
Chevy Mechanic: BOBBYSS, Master Technician replied 2 years ago
BOBBYSS
BOBBYSS, Master Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 17,580
Experience: ASE MASTER CERTIFIED, AA DEGREE AUTO/DIESEL TECH
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Hello, my name is***** for the question. If I am not online when you return please give me some time to get back to you. It sounds like you either have a short in the wiring or a failing ignition switch. If the door locks are cycling then it makes me think it is the ignition. I would start by checking the wiring under the driver side of the dash. Follow it from the accelerator pedal to the kick panel and make sure that there is no damaged wire or corrosion. If nothing is found then replace the ignition switch.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
iously, that is my answer. is that a SS after your name or are those dollar signs. I am no certified GM tech by no means but I definitelay have more knowledge and skills then the average Joe when it comes to a vehicle . that being said I have already checked all the obvious scenarios I would refer you back to my question and the solutions tried topic I filled in I've been over this truck with a fine tooth comb replaced many many wires as well as replaced just about everything involved with this unbelievably stupid electronic throttle system. You got to do better than that I have checked the ignition I have checked the wiring like I said there was a fUll year gap problem free from the last time I had the same problem, if it were the ignition switch I would have continued to have a problem, do you not agree
Chevy Mechanic: BOBBYSS, Master Technician replied 2 years ago
I am sorry if you feel as if I do not know what I am talking about. The SS is simple for "supersport" (Chevy SS Fan). If you have checked all of these wires then I would not follow that path I mentioned. As for the ignition switch, they do not simply fail on this vehicle. The can create internal resistance and in the right amount of heat cause a loss of voltage. It only takes a small loss of voltage to cause this to occur. I have also seen a poor connection at the fuse box under the hood cause this, and on rare occasions when just the right amount of heat and vibration occurs. As you mentioned, the very stupid electronic throttle system. When it intermittently happens it will be hard to find as you will need to run tests when it is occurring.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Sorry if I came across rude, never meant to imply that you did not know what you're talking about just a little frustrated with the whole situation and I posted my question 8 hours ago and never got a response until yours and forgive me it just seemed generic to me at the time it is definitely a hard problem to find as I can attest spending evenings for a good part of two months crawling around all over the thing. as I stated in my original question first time it happened last year it was a distinctive loss of power like throwing Out a parachute, this time you can literally feel the engine hesitate & get sluggish like pulling a heavy load up to 3000rpm at which time it either goes into reduced engine power or clears up completely With good midrange power.I could be in cruise at 70 and go into reduced engine power but may continue at 70 miles an hour for another 10 miles before slowly dropping to a crawl and other times it just shuts down completely like I believe It is supposed to do on reduced power. the door lock cycling is somewhat rare maybe once every 12 or 13 times it does this what's your thoughts on the AC blowing hot air on the driver side only upon restart. one thing I forgot to mention also and I remember hearing it a few times last year when I had the problem and I've heard it several times this year. I have found that pulling over turning off the ignition &waiting for about 20 seconds resets something and it will start back up and run fine for a while but while waiting you can hear like a spring or something on the firewall be released it's almost like a like a relay clicking and it's at that point in time when the vehicle will refire properly. Maybe TCModule??? Any thoughts...sorry for rambling on
Chevy Mechanic: BOBBYSS, Master Technician replied 2 years ago
Thank you for the info. I did not take it as rude, I am just here to help. The noise you are hearing may be the release of the throttle plate, but it can also be coming from the throttle control module. I have replaced too many of this over the years. I would ohm the wires out between the throttle body and the module and make sure there is 0 resistance. I am going to assume you already did this and also checked the ground on the back of the engine for the module.
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