Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
If you have a bad ignition switch,what would the symptoms be? Mine runs for a second and then cuts off.
A guy came over and replaced the starter. When he couldn't get the car to start, he tried to start the car from the starter solenoid with a jump wire. The car ran for about 2 seconds before cutting off. We left the car alone for 6 months and had a mechanic come and look at it. He says that the guy burned out the magnet in the key cylinder. He replaced the key cylinder and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a while, but the car still only ran for about 2 seconds. The mechanic say's that the ignition ignition switch itself is bad, not the key switch since that part has been changed. Before the mechanic changed the key switch,the theft light would blink constantly and never stop. Now the theft light just stays on. Is the Mechanic on the right track ? Or do you have any advice?
I do not believe they are on the right track, this sounds more like a security issue to me so I would try the below procedure.
Below is a relearn procedure that is typically needed to be done after replacing the ignition switch/lock cylinder so I would try that.
1. Perform a security system relearn. 2. Let the vehicle sit for more than 10 minutes with the key off. 3. Attempt to start the engine, leave the key in the run position monitoring the security system indicator. 4. After 10 minutes, the security indicator will change state (turns off or stops flashing). 5. Turn the key off and wait 10 seconds. 6. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine stalls, wait another 10 minutes with the key on. 7. After the second 10 minute timer has expired, turn the key off for 10 seconds. 8. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine stalls, wait another 10 minutes with the key on. 9. After the 3rd 10 minute timer has expired, shut the key off for 10 seconds. 10. The security system will relearn on the 4th starting attempt and the engine should start and run.
I watched the mechanic do just what you said today. The mechanic said that my car has a 30-minute learning curve and he did just what you said 3 times, but the car still won't crank. That's when he said that the that the switch (ignition?) the key turn's is bad. He say's that the switch is only working in the start position and not the run position, that's why it cuts off when he releases the key.
I really appreciate your feedback, but your answers haven't addressed my concerns. I want to know what's wrong and what needs to be done to correct it.
I thought you just wanted to know if the mechanic was on the right track and if he tested the ignition switch for the problem then he is probably correct. For me to say it is one thing or another you will need to do some electrical testing for me so that I can determine the cause if this problem, if you can do that let me know and I will tell you what to test.
The mechanic came over today and changed the ignition switch (black box with 2 plugs), he did that reset procedure again and the car crank right up.
An ignition (starter) switch is a control that runs the internal combustion engine of a vehicle. The switch stimulates the primary electrical system. Besides giving the vehicle power to the starter and ignition, the switch also helps power other electrical systems such as the radio, power windows, and headlights.
In most vehicles, a key is inserted into the ignition to start the vehicle. Inside the ignition is the ignition switch. This switch activates the electrical system providing power to the starter solenoid, engine control unit, ignition coil, and starter motor. A person can hotwire the vehicle to bypass the ignition locking system.
If the vehicle is stalling, this might be a good indication that the ignition switch is bad. Below is a list of troubleshooting options to determine if the ignition switch has gone bad.