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1999 Chevrolet Blazer: start position..loud..belt..the first start…

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Upon starting my 1999 Chevrolet...
Upon starting my 1999 Chevrolet Blazer it attemps to start before the key ignition is in the start position and when it starts a loud screeching sound comes from the belt area. It is cold out approx 30 degrees F and it is the first start of the morning. It has just happened and has never happened before.
Submitted: 7 years ago.Category: Chevy
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Answered in 2 hours by:
2/3/2011
Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
Dave Nova
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Satisfied Customers: 19,452
Experience: ASE Master Certification. GM World Class Certification
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Hello and thank you for using JustAnswer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will do my best to help you with your Chevy problem.

 

I would suggest removing the belt and turning all of the pullies by hand. All but the bottom pulley should be able to be easily turned by hand. If any of the pullies will not turn by hand, this indicates that the component is locked up and will need to be replaced.

 

graphic

 

Move tensioner in the direction shown to remove the belt.

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hello David,

 

Thank you for your assistance. I pin-pointed the squeel to the top idler pully, but that doesn't explain why the car starts before the ignition key is turned to the start position. The car turns over and starts before the dash-lights light up. I have never seen such a thing before and absolutley shouldn't happen.

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
This would be due to a faulty ignition switch. Replacing the ignition switch will fix this problem.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Any tips or instructions on how to remove this switch? I have the steering wheel off and bottom steering column cover off, but cannot remove top cover because there is a torx nut which I do not have the size to fit to remove the top cover. Does the top cover need to be removed, and should I inspect the key cylinder?
Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago

You can use a small 6 pointed socket to remove the upper column cover, it is not necessary to have the torx socket. You will need to remove the upper cover to replace the ignition switch. Part of the harness on the switch goes to a small switch at the key lock cylinder, see first picture below. The ignition switch is released with two small tabs. The ignition switch is held in with two small tabs, you can release these tabs with two small screwdrivers and pull the ignition switch down out of the housing. After removing the ignition switch you can inspect the ignition lock cylinder, this part is simple and there is really no way for it to fail, that is why the problem will be in the switch itself. Make sure the new switch is correctly oriented before installing it.

 

graphic

 

 

 

 

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

It was a pain in the neck to remove the 2 pin connector behind the steering column but finally got it off.

 

While I have all this apart, I also am going to also replace the turn signal switch as I know there is a problem with that too because I would hear the flasher unit clicking behind the glove compartment while driving without the flashers being turned on.

 

Turn Switch and ignition switch $275 + Steering wheel puller, Idler pully and tensioner assembly = $360 in parts. Pretty sad right now, but I guess I'll have to deal with no heat until I get my Tax rebate which IRS will not accept until Feb 15.

 

Thanks for lettling me vent a bit.

 

Want me to accept Answer now or after I do the repair in the snow tomorrow? lol

 

Thanks for your help, Nick

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
You can accept whenever you like. I will leave the question open and continue to provide follow up with you even after you've accepted the answer.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Replaced the ignition switch and turn signal switch and tried starting it and it still starts before the switch is in the start position. Still have loud screaching sound too. is it possible there is a bad starter?

Customer reply replied 7 years ago
The engine started up fine with first start up, like it has before replacing parts, it would run for about 15 seconds then I would hear a hollow grinding type screech noise. I would turn the engine off. I attempt to start again and the engine tries to turn over before it gets to the start position with the key switch and if I leave it there the car tries to start but will not, and there is sometimes this screeching noise while this happens. It's the same as before with all the parts I have changed. This is very bad news.
Customer reply replied 7 years ago

How the heck do I get the starter out from under the engine? No matter how I position the starter I cannot get it past the housing for the flywheel and the frame for the front suspension arm. It seems impossible.

 

How come I am not getting answers back?

Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Brought starter in to Advance Auto for bench test, they said it didn't work, so I replaced and installed new starter. I still get the same screech noise. I removed belt and ran for a little and still got screech noise, and it gets very loud. I am afraid to drive it. Also the Guage light was lit while it was running for a bit. I also tried swapping the defroster relay in the starter relay slot, since they are both the same relay part number, and I still get the same result.
Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
The starter may be staying engaged. Since the starter is engaging too soon, it may be keeping power to the starter and keeping it engaged. Use a test light or voltmeter to test for power at the yellow wire at the ignition switch or the purple wire at the starter after starting the engine. If there is power at either wire after starting the engine, then the problem will be tht the ignition switch is out of time. You will then need to pull the ignition switch and reorient the gear on the switch and reinstall it.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
<p>You have to remember that this problem existed before I put in the new ignition switch. I also made sure that the key was in the off position when I installed the new switch. I turn the key to all positions, and seems to mechanically work correctly; such as, when I turn it to the START postion, then release, it goes to the ON position automatically, and when I turn it OFF, I can turn it back one notch and the radio turns on, so the gearing has to be correct. You have to recall that the dash lights don't even get a chance to turn on when it trys to start in the ACC and ON postions. There is something more to this, maybe a stuck relay some where, and I do not think it's the ignition switch at all; since it has produced the same exact result as the original ignition switch. Maybe a bad transmission bearing or something. I really don't know, but all of what you have sugested has not pin-pointed the cause.</p><p>Oh, one other thing. The closest the sound this comes to is if you are turning a steering wheel with low steering fluid in the pump. The is closest to what the sound it makes. Like I said I removed the belt, ran for a few seconds, and it made this noise, so it isn't a pully that the belt attaches to.</p>
Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
You can remove the 3 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel and push the torque converter towards the transmission about 1/4" and start the engine. This will totally separate the transmission from the engine and will let you know if the problem is in the transmission or not.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Sorry for not answering any sooner, but I needed go to work at my job or I cannot pay bills. Had to carpool so I had no time to read email or do anything other than work, eat and sleep.

 

Are these bolts and torque converter easy to get to? Any instructions or diagrams for location and such?

 

As soon as I find the cause I will click the accept button. So far everything we have discussed and replaced has not revealed the cause.

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago

Remove the starter, then remove the cover at the transmission (see picture). There will be three bolts securing the flywheel to the torque converter.

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

There is no way I can get under my Blazer while it is on a sheet of ice to get to the transmission, but I did something a bit easier and I know what is causing the noise.

 

The transmission is not the cause but the starter circuitry is.

 

I tired something I read on the Internet.

 

One person said his starter was engaging while in park but didn't do this while in gear and in neutral, so I tried to start the Blazer in neutral and it made the same noise, but when I pulled the starter relay it stopped and I can drive the blazer and rev it high without any noise. There has to be a short or something sticking somewhere that is keeping power to the starter relay. If I disconnect power at the battery for a timely amount and hook it back up the ignition switch works correctly for starting the Blazer, I would soon after hear the starter still engaged , producing the sound, I turn it off using the ignition, then attempt to start it again, but it tires to start at the ACC position and will not start because no fuel getting to the engine, and starter stays engaged unless I pull the starter relay. I have already tried, a week ago, to place the defroster relay in the starter relay socket and the same deal happens, so the relay is not the cause, but something in the wiring circuitry for the starter, not the ignition switch, is the cause. If I was to install a momentary pushbutton in the sockets that start the starter and press it when starting and releasing the pushbutton after it starts, the blazer runs like a champ and without the starter saying engaged, but this is only a band aid for the problem and I would like to get to the bottom of this problem.

 

I hope now you can see this in a whole new light.

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
Locate the wiring harness coming from the ignition switch and test for power on the yellow wire coming out of the switch. This wire should only have power in the start position. If it has power in the other positions, we can then track down what is backfeeding power into this circuit. Let me know what you find.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

I tested this with the starter relay out and I had power in the ON and START Positions.

Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Any reply? I only have a few hours of daylight here.
Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
Sorry for the delay. Remove the IGNITION C fuse from the underhood fuse panel, then check the same wire for power in the on and start positions. If you have no power in any position, this would indicate once again that the ignition switch is bad. If there is power on this wire, there will be a short in the wiring. Let me know what you find.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

Removed Fuse Ignition C and got 4.77 Volts on the Yellow wire on the ON and START positions.

 

With Fuse Ignition C in its socket, I got 4.77 Volts on the Yellow wire on the ON position and 12 Volts on the Yellow wire on the START position.

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
There is something backfeeding voltage into the circuit. With the voltmeter connected and the key on, remove the other fuses one at a time until the voltage drops from 4.77 to Zero volts. Let me know which fuse it is and I can help you to determine where the short may be.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

Do you mean by other fuses: Ignition A and Ignition B, or if there is any others which ones?

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
Start with the larger fuses IGN A and IGN B, then go to the smaller fuses.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

The Large 50 Amp Fuse "INT BAT" on far upper left side of Fuse Compartment drops the voltage to 0 when pulled.

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago

The INT BATT fuse feeds the circuits shown in the diagram below. Remove the fuses shown in the dash fuse panel one at a time to see which one drops the voltage.

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

It's the CTSY LP (Fuse 8) 10 Amp Fuse that drops the voltage to 0 when pulled.

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago

If you have any aftermarket accessories installed, try disconnecting them first. Then refer to diagram below and check for anything that may be tied into the wiring or you may have to disconnect each of the components one at a time until the voltage drops to zero.

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Well the ignition and turn signal switches are after market but wouldn't make any sense to disconnect to take a measurement. I did replace the alternator a few days prior to when this starter problem happened. As far as that, that's the only after market electrical parts that I know of that are installed onto this Blazer.

 

Now where is the Transfer Case Shift Module? I removed the glove compartment but didn't see one there.

 

Also where is the Inadvertent Power Lamp Relay?

Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

I finally found the Transfer Case Shift Module. Is behind the passenger lower left side panel near the floor, and I unplugged it and the voltage dropped to zero. To replace this it's going to cost about $400. Any sugestions, maybe try a junk yard?

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago

Sorry for the delayed response. I would check the salvage yards for a replacement transfer case control module. Just make sure the part number matches and you should be okay. These seldom fail, especially short circuiting in the manner that yours has.

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Dave,

 

I did find one at rockauto.com for $166 made by Dorman. Think it's worth it or still better off at a salvage yard?

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago

They will be cheaper at a salvage yard, but the new part may have a longer guarantee. Try the link below, I use this website to find used parts all the time.

 

www.car-part.com

 

Dave Nova
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hi Dave,

 

To follow up, I received the part, installed it and it has eliminated the problem.

 

Thank you,

Nick

Chevy Mechanic: Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician replied 7 years ago
Thanks for the follow up. Thank you for using justanswer.
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