How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Dave Nova Your Own Question
Dave Nova
Dave Nova, Chevrolet Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 19452
Experience:  ASE Master Certification. GM World Class Certification
Type Your Chevy Question Here...
Dave Nova is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

99 Cavalier: brake lights..fuses..brake pedal..turn signals, hazards

This answer was rated:

'99 Cavalier experiencing no brake lights, no hazards, no turn signals. Verified all (known) fuses are good, verified power and ground to relay/flasher located near brake pedal. Verified power to multi function switch assembly on column for turn signals, hazards. Replaced MultiFunction switch assembly as well as the relay flasher located near brake mount with no success. Did notice, however, when using a test light on the 20A fuse for the hazards located near driver side door, the light seems to dim and get brighter when the hazards are switched on and off. Reviewed wiring as possible back to tail lights and no apparent shorts or cuts are noticable... Just looking for a possible next thing to test or where to begin looking from here.

Hello and thank you for using JustAnswer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will do my best to help you with your Chevy problem.


Do front turn signals come on at all?

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
No, none of the signals work. All running lights are working intermittently. The drivers side rear running light was working but now does not seem to be working.
Test for power at the white wire coming out of the brake switch with the switch depressed. If you have power on the white wire, then test for power on the dark green and yellow wires coming out of the column from the turn signal switch with the pedal depressed. Let me know what you find.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hello Dave,

I have tested the wires using a 12v multimeter as well as a standard automotive test light. Either way there appears to be no power coming from the white lead from the brake switch, nor the dark green wire and yellow wires coming from the turn signal switch whether the brake is depressed or not. I rechecked all the fuses to just be sure and all fuses are visibly good as well as test out for continuity.

Is there power on the orange wire at the brake switch?


If not, test for power at the STOP/HAZ fuse


Let me know what you find and we can take it from there.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
We do have power coming from the orange wire at the brake switch. Double checked the STOP/HAZ fuse to be sure which is good.

If you have power at the orange wire, but not on the white wire, test at the orange wire while depressing the pedal. If you still have power on the orange wire, replace the brake switch.


Let me know what you find.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

The orange wire has power up until the brake pedal is depressed at which point the power cuts out. I really appreciate your help on this cause its about 15 degree's out and hunting these wire's down without experience would suck.
Sorry for the delay. Your power source is bad. Check again at the fuse while depressing the pedal. If power maintains at the fuse, then check connections at the fuse panel. Let me know what you find there.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
The power cuts out on both sides of the fuse when the brake pedal is depressed. The vehicle is currently outside in the dark and from what little I can see with a flashlight it appears the connection is solid into the fuse panel but I will have to wait until daylight or until I can get it into our garage to be sure.

But as I said for now, the power does cut off at the fuse upon depressing the brake pedal for the STOP/HAZ 20A fuse.
Since the power is cutting out on both sides of the fuse, the problem is on the input side of the fuse panel. Before tearing anything apart, test for power at the BATT2 fuse in the underhood fuse panel. If power maintains at this fuse with the pedal depressed, then you will need to check connections at the dash fuse panel and on the backside of the STOP/HAZ fuse.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Power does maintain at the BATT2 (40A) fuse under the hood when depressed. It's currently 10:30PM where I live an about 5 degree's out now. Tomorrow I will hopefully be able to put the unit in a heated garage and start looking into the connections on the back of the fuse panel.

Is there any simple way to get to the back of these fuse panels or is it as complicated as it looks in the dark?

Thanks for your help Dave, as soon as I get this problem fixed I will def. give you the credit for all your help.

Removing the fuse panel is not too terribly hard to do. Instructions are below.



  1. Remove the battery ground negative cable.
  2. Remove the glove compartment.
  3. Remove the dash panel access hole cover from the dash.
  4. Remove the electrical connectors.
  5. Remove the fuse block from the tie bar (6).




  1. Remove the fuse block (5) from the instrument panel


Dave Nova and 4 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hey Dave just an update. Still waiting to get the car into the garage to pull the fuse block. Haven't forgot about you :)
Sounds good. I will leave the question open in case you need to ask for any more information.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Sorry for the delay. I have finally got the car in the garage and was able to get the fuse block unmounted. I reviewed the connections on the back of it and it appears the input connection for the STOP/HAZ fuse has no incoming wire for power, but is rather apart of a single bar for many other fuses in that row. I looked as best as possible at the connection on the back of the fuse block but cannot get down inside the connection with all the wires in the way.

I see a blue bar that is used to hold all of the connections in place, however, all the wires are the same colors and seem like they will come right out as individual wires if I remove them.

Is there a simple way that you would know of to be able to remove the fuse block as a whole, but not create a single giant harness of the same color wires without knowing where they go back to?
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Also after looking and testing some more we noticed that all the fuses in the same line that are past the STOP/HAZ fuse experience a dimming of the test light when the hazard switch or brakes are activated. The fuses in this same line that are before the STOP/HAZ do not experience this issue. When released the light returns to full illumination.

There is also a DTL daytime running light relay in this fuse panel. If the relay is removed and the STOP or Hazards are activated, the test light does not dim. When that DTL relay is in place, the dimming occurs.

When a direct hot lead from the battery is connected to the output side of the STOP/HAZ, the circuit functions properly and all lights are working.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hey Dave thanks for all your help on the issue. I accepted your answer so you should be credited. The supply wire from the BAT2 fuse to the fuse block in the car was corroded at a junction. We removed the connector and cleaned out all the crud and corrosion, reconnected, and all is well.

Thanks so much for your expertise.
Sorry I was not around this afternoon. Glad you were able to get the problem fixed. Thanks for using justanswer.