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I have a 2001 Chevy 3/4 ton HD 6.0L that I bought used. It

Customer Question
has 130000 mi. Engine is...
I have a 2001 Chevy 3/4 ton HD 6.0L that I bought used. It has 130000 mi. Engine is noisy at start-up (sounds like a diesel). If I don't let it warm up good it sounds like a diesel when accelerating. The "change engine oil" always displays at start-up even if it's warm. The oil pressuse always goes right up to 60lbs. I change the oil every 2000mi using 5w-30 oil. The last oil change I switch to Mobil1 Syn, It helped a little but it just doesn't seem right. Thanks for your help.
Submitted: 7 years ago.Category: Chevy
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Answered in 18 minutes by:
2/15/2010
Chevy Mechanic: Tim's Auto Repair, mechanic replied 7 years ago
Tim's Auto Repair
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 16,167
Experience: Have owned a repair shop for 25 yrs.
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hi

this oil light is just to let you know it is time to change the oil...you need to rest it after you change the oil each time....the lifter noise may be caused form the o-ring at the oil pick up strainer,the oil pan would need to be removed to replace this

thanks

 

 

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  2. Service and Repair

    GM OIL LIFE SYSTEM - RESETTING

    The engine oil life monitor will indicate when to change the engine oil - usually between 5,000 km (3,000 miles) and 16,000 km (10,000 miles) since the last oil change. Under severe conditions, the "CHANGE OIL SOON" light may be displayed before 5,000 km (3,000 miles). The vehicle must not be driven more than 16,000 km (10,000 miles) or 12 months without an oil change.

    The engine oil life monitor will not detect dust in the oil. If the vehicle is driven in a dusty area, be sure to change the oil every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) or sooner if the "CHANGE OIL SOON" light is displayed.

    Reset the oil life monitor when the oil has been changed, use the following procedure.

    1. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
    2. Fully push and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds.
    3. If the "Change Oil Soon" light flashes, the system is resetting.
    4. Start the vehicle.
    5. The oil life will change to 100%.
    6. If the Change Oil Soon light comes back on, the system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
Engine - Knocking or Lifter Noise

File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 02-06-01-038

Date: December, 2002

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace 0-Ring)

 

Models:
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).

Cause

The 0-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.

Correction

Inspect the 0-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

 

 

Parts Information

Parts are currently available from GMSP0.

Warranty Information

 

Oil Pan Removal

 



Important: The original oil pan gasket is retained and aligned to the oil pan by rivets. When installing a new gasket, it is not necessary to install new oil pan gasket rivets.

DO NOT use the oil pan gasket again. When installing the oil pan, install a NEW oil pan gasket.

It is not necessary to remove the oil level sensor prior to oil pan removal. Remove the oil level sensor if service is required.


 

  1. Remove the left closeout cover and bolt.

 



 

  1. Remove the right closeout cover and bolt.

 



 

  1. Remove the oil level sensor from the oil pan, if required.

 



 

  1. Remove the oil pan bolts.
  2. Remove the oil pan.

 



Important: DO NOT allow foreign material to enter the oil passages of the oil pan, cap or cover the openings as required.

Use care not to gouge, score, or damage the oil pan sealing surface.

 

  1. Drill (3) out the oil pan gasket retaining rivets (2), if required.
  2. Remove the gasket (1) from the pan.
  3. Discard the gasket and rivets.

 



 

  1. Remove the oil pan baffle bolts and baffle, if required.

Installation

Note: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems



Important: The alignment of the structural oil pan is critical. The rear bolt hole locations of the oil pan provide mounting points for the transmission housing. To ensure the rigidity of the powertrain and correct transmission alignment, it is important that the rear of the block and the rear of the oil pan are flush or even. The rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block and transmission housing plane.

 

  • Do not use the oil pan gasket again.
  • It is not necessary to rivet the NEW gasket to the oil pan.
  • It is not necessary to remove the oil level sensor prior to oil pan installation.
  1. Install the oil pan baffle and bolts, if previously removed. Tighten Tighten the oil pan baffle bolts to 12 Nm (106 lb in) .

 



 

  1. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378521 (Canadian P/N 88901148), or equivalent, 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.

 



 

  1. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378521 (Canadian P/N 88901148), or equivalent, 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the rear cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.

 



 

Important: Ensure to align the oil gallery passages in the oil pan and engine block properly with the oil pan gasket.
  1. Pre-assemble the oil pan gasket to the pan.
4.1.Install the gasket onto the oil pan.
4.2.Install the oil pan bolts to the pan and through the gasket.
  1. Install the oil pan, gasket and bolts to the engine block.
  2. Tighten bolts finger tight. Do not overtighten.
  3. Place a straight edge across the rear of the engine block and the rear of the oil pan at the transmission housing mounting surfaces.

 



 

  1. Align the oil pan until the rear of engine block and rear of oil pan are flush or even. Tighten
  1. Tighten the oil pan-to-block and oil pan-to-front cover bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft) .
  2. Tighten the oil pan-to-rear cover bolts to 12 Nm (106 lb in) .
  1. Measure the oil pan-to-engine block alignment.
9.1.Place a straight edge across the rear of the engine block and rear of oil pan at the transmission housing mounting surfaces.
Important: The rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block and transmission housing mounting surfaces.
9.2.Insert a feeler gage between the straight edge and the oil pan transmission housing mounting surface and inspect to ensure that there is no greater than a 0.1 mm (0.004 in) gap (a) between the pan and straight edge.
9.3.If the oil pan alignment is not within specifications, remove the oil pan and repeat the above procedure.

 



 

  1. Install the oil level sensor.
Tighten
Tighten the oil level sensor to 13 Nm (115 lb in) .
Tim's Auto Repair
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 16,167
Experience: Have owned a repair shop for 25 yrs.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hey Tim,

I thought I would let you know how the project went. I wish that was as easy as the instructions. I had to drop the front differential and the exhaust to get the oil pan out. It really sucked. And to top it all off, the engine still rattles after installing the new o-ring. It helped a little but for the amount of work to do the job I'm not very happy with the results. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Randy

Chevy Mechanic: Tim's Auto Repair, mechanic replied 7 years ago

hi

is the oil pressure good now?

is the rattle on top of the engine,or,the bottom?

tell me all you can

thanks

Ask Your Own Chevy Question
Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Hello,

Oil pressure is between 60 and 70 lbs. The noise seems to be from the bottom end. It doesn't sound like a lifter. It's not a tick sound, more like a knock sound. It's not as loud the warmer the engine gets.,

Thanks

Chevy Mechanic: Tim's Auto Repair, mechanic replied 7 years ago

this don't sound good at all

to me it sounds as if you have a bad connecting rod bearing...if this is the case,you will need a complete crank kit installed....you will need to remove the oil pan again and shake the rods that connect to the crank,sense it does knock,,,you should find the one that is loose

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