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j_ramsey, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 972
Experience:  ASE certified engine repair a/c automatic transmission steering and suspension
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New rebuilt Chevy 350 turns over but it will not start. New ...

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New rebuilt Chevy 350 turns over but it will not start. New Eldebroke Carburator in place carb is spitting out. I have turned the carb 180 still no fire. I have checked for spark and there is spark. I asked about this earlier here and was advised to move the dist over 1 tooth, but it only goes in 2 spots 180 apart. Im stuck. Optional Information: Pre- 1983 Chevrolet Camaro 350Already Tried: checked firing order, gets spark, gas in the card. Turned the Dist 180 tried multiple positions with dist.
The distributor will go in more than two positions,the oil pump drive rod will rotate as the distributor are repositioned.Is it trying to start ? Did you try what I mentioned with moving the distributor ? Is the rotor pointing at cylinder #1 plug wire when aligned at TDC mark on crank ?
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to j_ramsey's Post:

It was trying to start but not as much yesterday. I could move it over 1 position but the distributer would not go all the way in, it there a trick to rotate the oil pump drive rod? Can being out of time cause the New Eldebroke Carburator to be spitting out? I can try this afternoon to see if the rotor is pointed at 1 when the compression is in Cylinder1. I thought I tried this before but cant be sure it was pointed at 1 I wasn't sure it was at TDC. I was just trying to feel for the compresion cycle with the spark plug out.


The oil pump drive rod will move with each distributor reposition, but only if you move one tooth at a time, any more than one tooth and it will not allow the distributor to go all the way down. Yes, the timing being off will cause it to blow out through the carburetor,the rocker arms being too tight will also. I would mainly make sure it is at TDC and the rotor points to #1 on the cap . Just keep posting back on this post until you get it running.I'm here to help you until it runs and runs right. James
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to j_ramsey's Post: I checked the the compresion in 1 and 2 cylinders and I get 70 to 75 I removed the valve cover from the even side and checked the rocker arm and there was some very loose arms. I tightened them at .030 roughly and rechecked 2 thru 8 and got 2=100 4=100 6=105 8= 110. on the odd side before removing valve cover 1=70 3=113 5=105 and 7=80. I ran out of time tonight so I couldnt adjust the rocker. will tomorrow.
Hopefully there are just rocker arms that are too tight.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.

While researching I see many different #s for compression, around 80 lbs. or higher is usually good, what is your thought?

Also there was some info about new motors being hard to measure because there hasn't been any oil the circulate and seal the rings and it is at cold temp. some suggest putting a little oil on each cylinder to help seal, what do you think about that?

I normally oil the piston rings and the cylinder walls when I assemble an engine,so yes,oil in the cylinder will help. 80 or higher is ok for initial start up,but after the rings seat you do not want to see more than a 5 psi difference between cylinders or it will run rough/ bad.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to j_ramsey's Post: Well I have the 120 to 125 in each cyl. with the rockers adjusted. I brought 1 Cyl to the compresion and placed the Dist with rotor at 1 I got an almost. the clostest I got, I got a backfire through the carb.
Sometimes when I get a stubborn one to start for the first time I will leave the driver side valve cover off,rotate the crankshaft clockwise and watch for #1 cylinder intake valve to open and then close. After cylinder #1 intake valve closes I continue turning the crank clockwise to the TDC mark, that is WITHOUT A DOUBT when cylinder # XXXXX should fire -just after the intake valve has dumped fuel into the cylinder and closed.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
will being out of time cause drag draining the battery faster?
Too much ignition advance will cause the starter to drag .
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to j_ramsey's Post:

I rechecked the compression in 1 and 3 and they dropped. They were low before and I was told to put a little oil in the cylinders to seat the rings and I did which pulled the compression up to 120 to 125 per cyl. when I checked 1 and 3 tonight 1 was 75 and 3 was 105.


I just bought a standard 350 kit from AutoZone. the timing cover is a custom chrome and the dist was a new clear.


I wonder if I put more oil in if the rings might seal. to create a seal?

I would try cranking with a little oil in the cylinder to see if the rings will seal, they may if you can get it to start and run .
Customer: replied 9 years ago.

How mush oil do you think I should put in each Cyl? Before I used a small piece of tubing and I would pull up approx. a cap full (cap off oil bottle). + or - I was afraid to put to much in.?

That is about the right amount, it doesn't take much to settle around the ring area on the piston.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
okay, its running, got everything put together tonight and fired it up for a while. THere is quit a bit of smoke from the exhaust. I would think there would be some because I put oil in the cyl to seal the rings but how much? I could only run about 5 minutes because of oil leaking through the valve gasket. there was a lot of smoke in the shop, I did have every door and window open.
Yes there should have been smoke from the oil in the cylinder,but it would have cleared up in less than a minute. If oil was leaking from the valve cover then the smoke was caused by oil running onto the hot exhaust manifold.
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