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roadsidejerry, auto mechanic
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2948
Experience:  Auto Mechanic 39 years, 30 with NYPD Fleet Service Division
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1997 Tahoe 5.7 V8 Problems with #9 fuse blowing when we ...

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1997 Tahoe 5.7 V8 Problems with #9 fuse blowing when we turn on the light switch, have disconnected rear tee to tail lights,replaced light switch itself,checked wires for tow package....still blowing fuses??????Help
Hi Jagzoo, I am sending the wiring diagram for your truck.You will see that Fuse #9 20amps. shown in the right upper corner of the diagram feeds more than the tail and tow connecter, it feeds the front parkgraphic and marker lights also. The will have to be inspected for shorts to ground.
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Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I just checked the front yesterday and came up with nothing again, I've been using I think this same diagram from my repair manual. I'm wondering if it may be in the switches for the power windows/locks because of the illumination in them, I think it feeds off of this circuit also.
Hi Jgzoo, you will have to disconnect all items that turn on when you use park can unplug the window switches and try it. If you follow diadram you will see a splice that is near the base of the steering column. Splice 210, all the wires are brown , you can take the wires off it and start connecting one at a time until the fuse blows then trace that circuit.Lokin the middle of the diagram a little to the right ,you will see the splice.Jerry
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Thank you for your continued help on this issue. I'm not getting very far though, frustrated right now, taking a break for lunch. I think I have found that splice, I now have the drivers door skin off, my wife had a policeman slim jim her door last week, thought maybe he nicked a wire, didn't find anything there,dash is apart and my next trick is to do what you suggested with the 210 splice, is there anything I need to know about that splice that would make it an easier task? It's the splice under the dash right, not on the firewall? Thanks again Jerry
Hi Jagzoo, don't get upset,electrical shorts can be time consuming. Is the short always there?Or does it come and go?If it's always there you can buy a circuit breaker in an auto parts store,20 amp,make up 2 jumpers with spade connectors on the ends and hook across the fuse location in the fuse box.It will reset and save you from replacing multiple fuses.The splice should be close to the bottom of the steering column,all brown wires.I will be waiting to hear your results,Jerry.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
It started last Sat, and it only blows the fuse when we turn on the headlight switch. We had the drivers door slim-jimmed late last week so I checked the door wiring, it looks good no nicks in any wires that I could find. I have noticed that it takes a few moments for the fuse to blow when the vehicle is cold, not sure what that's all about, but once it warms up it blows immediatly when we turn the headlight switch. I've had enough time when it's cold to replace the fuse and check all the lights,blinkers,hazards,dash lights,by myself. All the lights work like normal. My cousin is coming over to help this afternoon, we are going to try working with that splice you mentioned...I'll let you know....
Thanks for getting back,let me know how it goes ,I am interested to hear what you find,Jerry.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Now I'm really confused.....All I did yesterday was unplug that splice at the bottom of the steering column,then put the fuse in and turned on the light switch....fuse didn't blow.....that was good so I plugged the splice back together while the fuse was in,light switch on, and to my surprise the fuse never blew...everything worked as normal. So I decide to put everything back together thinking that maybe it was in that connector...while putting everything back I left the power on just to see if it would blow again(took @ 45min),it never did. So I decide to take it to go get pizza (7 miles away),as I started down the road I noticed that the speedometer/rpm gauges and the blinkers weren't working and then the 'check engine soon' light came was running perfect????? So I come home,eat, check the codes and came up with a PO740 Torque converter....I have no idea why that code came up, but I clear it and it comes back immediately. The confusing part to me is that the fuse hasn't blown since and I really didn't do anything to fix it...I'm going to check that splice again, maybe it's loose somewhere(I doubt it) but after that I think I'm taking it to my least I've troubleshot it and can give him a heads up on what I've done and how it's doing. Unless of course you can give me some more ideas. I really do thank you though, I'd never got this far without help.        Josh
Hi Josh, The question reopened,did you get the PM I sent? Check all the fuses,look for any loose conections going to the instument cluster .Since you lost the tach and speedometer it will cause the code p0740 TCC problem.Jerry
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I disconnected that splice at the base of the steering column, checked #9 fuse,it never blew,I put that connection back together, checked fuses again still didn't I decided to put the car back together...45 minutes later I finished and checked the fuses again and they were fine. drove it to get pizza noticed I now had no blinkers/rpm gauge/speedometer and the check engine light is on but EVERYTHING ELSE worked fine...Codes are PO740/P1860...Mechanic now has the car and says the ignition switch is the current problem...$373.00 parts/labor later...but has little or nothing to do with the original problem and no-way to check the ignition switch except changing it out....He says I may have shorted something out when I unplugged that connector,hopefully ignition and not computer,asked me if I unplugged the battery before undoing that connector....nope....uhhggg

Any suggestions? This is getting expensive,and I may still have a problem once this gets accomplished...
Hi Jagzoo, I would go ahead with replacing the ignition switch, they can cause all sorts of problems when they fail. They frequently have an intermittent connection internally. I dint think you shorted anything, since if you did it would have blown a fuse. The computer would not be damaged because you didn't disconnect the battery. Please let me know results after the switch replacement,Jerry.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Turns out that we replaced an ignition switch that wasn't was a wire rubbing the inner fender that went to the blinker lights,but by unplugging the 210 connection we ended up with more problems,doing that sent an error message to the computer which made the check engine light come on,tach/speedo not work, and a mechanics troubleshooting bill that was a little tough to swallow...and now it's back in the shop for drive- ability issues which I have yet to hear any news doesn't want to start period,but if it starts it acts like it has a miss and then seems to flood itself and smokes(white)real bad,after it warms up it seems to drive better,less smoke,but the miss is still there. We have never had any problems whatsoever with this vehicle,and I know electrical problems are a pain or can be anyway and you tried to help us out...We appreciate it...this is why I'm accepting.
Hi Jagzoo,Thank you for accepting. Sorry to hear all the trouble and the new problem. The white smoke at start up does't sound to good,where you using coolant?I hope its not a head gasket problem.This is a test kit used to find iut if thats the problem,the shop may to this test to confirm if thats the problem.If you want let me know the outcome Jerry.graphic