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With my foot on the brake pedal what would cause there to be…

With my foot on the...
With my foot on the brake pedal what would cause there to be no reaction when I press the gas pedal and then the car just dies out?
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Answered in 2 hours by:
3/5/2022
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago
Daniel Lehrman
Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 391
Experience: An automotive and light-duty truck mechanic for almost 50 years. ASE Certified, specializing in transmissions, engines, and drivability problems of any type.
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Welcome to JustAnswer. My name is***** will assist you today. If I don’t respond immediately, I’m typing. To whom do I have the pleasure of speaking?

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Hi Danny. Name is Seth.
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Good day Seth. Unexpected and troublesome automotive problems are not on anyone's schedule. Thanks for trusting JustAnswer and me to solve your problem.

I offer Expert repair assistance catered to your skillset, or an Experts understanding of your problem, in terms you understand, and direction if you're taking it to a professional.

Let's start by clarifying your problem: When your foot is on the brake pedal, and you press the gas, there's no reaction, and the car dies out?

Does it misbehave in all gears? Of just forward and reverse?

What is the make and model of your car, please?

Have you noticed an engine warning light? 

May I have the engine size, please?

I may not respond immediately-I'm reviewing your question or typing an answer. Please send pictures or videos that better describe your issue. Additional questions may be requested to improve the focus of my solution. If you are a mechanic, please say so. Thank you. Danny L ASE

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Sorry for not including all of that information. I've been frustrated with this damn vehicle for a month and a half now.2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Non-AFMI haven't actually driven the vehicle in about a month. Last 2 times I drove it I only got about ½ mile down the road before check engine light qould start blinking with code, you ready for this..... P0300.
Fast forward to today and with the question I asked.....
I've been trying to do a ckp relearn with an old school scanner(snap-on mt2500), but just can't seem to get I done correctly. I went to try the procedure again today and right after start up I quickly went into the relearn and went to mash the gas pedal. Rpm needle pretty much didn't go anywhere and then it died.If I had to explain it another way, I would imagine I don't know...... someone put a sock somewhere between where air enters the engine and where it exits. His information may/may not be helpful: misfiring on all of Bank 1(in order of misfire most misfire counts 7,1,5,3) , no misfires on Bank 2.
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

That's a little odd. Trouble code P0300 is a general and random misfire code, which means that the code is not going to tell you which cylinder is causing the misfire. Something is causing cylinders to misfire at random, which is a lot less cut and dry than a cylinder-specific misfire code.

When you do the crankshaft sensor relearn, does it accept it at all? Or is it rejected immediately?

Does that scan tool support live data? I'm wondering if the ECU is making the proper commands. Not every problem shows a code. 

Having said the above, can I have the vehicle identification number, and is it a four-wheel drive?

Thank you for cooperating and your patience; sometimes, it takes a little time to solve these issues using text.

Danny

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
VIN: ***************** and 4wd, yes.For the relearn: I have gotten it to register 2 times where it would go into testing and it had to do with timing and luck apparently. Other than that it will take me to where it says "waiting for full throttle". It shows what the rpms would be and coolant temp. But for some reason it doesnt register the rpms EXCEPT for the 2 times it did and then it said "testing in progress" test completed relearn failed. And I think it failed because I didn't know what I was doing and haven't been able to get back to that position.Mt2500 will read live data, yes-which i mainly use for the misfire counts
But I also have the bluedriver which read live data but doesn't give me misfire counts for my vehicle and doesn't do the relearn.
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Thank you, Seth.

Does live data show RPMs and TPS percentages?

Do you know how to perform a pinpoint test of the ECU connector? I'm inclined to think you might have a bad driver inside the ECU.

Danny

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
both scanners will show RPMs and if TPS is throttle position, yes they both will show that data as well.I have never done a pinpoint test, but there's also a lot I haven't done up until about a month and a half ago. I'm willing to learn how to do one, if that's an option.
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

You are easy to work with. We need to take a logical approach. I would be glad to try and teach you how to do a pinpoint test. It's a bit tedious, but not very hard to do. I have your VIN to locate the correct connector and factory procedure.

  • Do you own a voltmeter? 
  • Do you know how to test load? I will teach you if you do not know how to?

I'll do my best to locate and load the pdfs on pinpoint tests today. I'm having a super busy day, and I go offline at six, so I'm not sure I can outline the pinpoint test this evening.

Would you mind if I presented the requested and needed information in the morning? I do not want you to think I abandoned you.

Thanks for your patience and cooperation; we'll get your problem solved with a bit of patience.

Danny

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
No problem at all, Danny. Tae your time to get everything together and I'll look into pinpoint testing and load testing so I'm somewhat familiar with what to do when you tell me what to do.I own a multimeter. And when you ask about testing a load, what exactly are you referring to?
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Load or voltage drop tests the integrity of the wire. Continuity only shows the voltage. A 12 strand wire cut in half will show 12 volts, but it won't hold a load. Thus, if a load is applied, voltage drops. I use a handy cost-effective tool that plugs into my voltmeter called a Load Pro.

We will have some fun, Seth. I like teaching people, and you seem eager to learn.

Thanks, ***** ***** a great evening,

Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Greetings Seth. My database with some of the information you I offered you is down this morning. I understand you said no rush, but I like to stay in touch with my customers. As soon as the information required becomes available I will send it to you right away. In the meantime I will prepare a guide on how to test for load/voltage drrop and do a pinpoint test to get you aquanted.

I prefer to stay in communication so you know I did not forget about you. 

Thank you for your patience, Danny

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
I appreciate you getting in touch with me to let me know that. Go ahead and send whatever information you think will be valuable.I am wondering about something though- dielectric grease- is that stuff okay to put over the ground connections? If so, is it possible to put too much on?
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago
Greetings. Good idea. I separate each connection, then I use an electrical cleaner and dielectric grease on all of my connections. I try not to have excessive dielectric grease outside the connector so it does not attract dirt. 

That’s a procedure I recommend and perform.

I’m working on an explanation of voltage drop off pinpoint testing now. 

Thanks for listening, it’s the little details that count, Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Greetings, as promised, a definition and information concerning voltage drop. Please take your time to understand it. If you have any questions, please ask me.

Continuity, voltage, current/load draw, resistance test procedures are necessary to confirm the integrity of a wiring system.

As current starts flowing through a wire, resistance is second to conductance, which can be checked only by flowing current through the wire.

Voltage drop/load is measured by reading across the load. You can only test voltage drop or current load if the electrical system is hooked up and turned on.

A digital voltmeter can’t detect high resistance or voltage drop (Load).

If you cut a ten-strand wire in half, it will show 12 volts but only carry half the current draw. Continuity and voltage check okay, but load drops voltage when applied because the wire is compromised—the single most confusing and misdiagnosed electrical procedure.

The best way to add an electrical load to a circuit is with a Load Pro or a light bulb. (headlight)

Probe the connector end of your load tool into the pin in the connector of the wire and circuit you want to test-hook the other probe to the other end of the wire and apply a load to the circuit in question. 1. Push the “load” button on your load tester-If the voltage drops, you have a faulty wire, connector, or component. Or, add the load (headlight bulb) to the circuit to mimic a load. If the voltage and load are within range, go to the next pin.

Note: A voltage drop of .5 to 1.0V is standard and is expected based on my experience.

  • If the voltage drop is more than 1.0V, the wire has failed the load test.

  • The four types of faults you’re testing for when checking a circuit:

  • A short to ground.

  • A short to power.

  • A short across circuits and

  • An open wire or high resistance.

Short to the ground and short to power are straightforward. Either power or ground exists in a circuit where it shouldn’t be. (Copper to copper).

Thank you for hearing me out. I know I put a lot to think about.

Have a good evening, Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Good morning Seth. My database is up and running. I appreciate your patience. I thought I would send the factory CKP reset procedures just in case you wanted to make sure you are setting it correctly.

My research indicates the crankshaft position sensor can cause your problem. Please go through the factory reset procedure once again. If that does not work, We will proceed from there.

I'm looking for a CKP isolation test now.

Thank you, Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Good morning; after further research, trouble code P0300 can be caused by anything from old spark plugs to vacuum leaks to low engine compression. It’s difficult to give an accurate synopsis without first diagnosing the issue.

Code P0300 is a generic code having to do with multiple misfires, as you already know. Multiple misfires can be caused by many reasons, from a faulty ignition system, fuel system, or internal engine failure. 

The most common reason for this to happen is faulty or worn-out spark plug coil packs, especially if it’s been a while since you had a tune-up.

  • Faulty, tired spark plug wires
  • Damaged ignition coils
  • Vacuum leak
  • Low fuel pressure
  • Camshaft and crankshaft sensor defective
  • Engine timing incorrect
  • Leaking head gasket
  • Low engine compression

Having had plenty of time to evaluate your problem and not knowing if you renewed the above components, I would begin with examining and confirming the above components, especially the CPS, are in specs. Note: A CPS can cause your problem. If the CPS is not reading correctly, the ECU may be offering incorrect air-fuel ratio/mixtures or incorrect timing, causing your engine to feel lifeless. Having said that, the throttle body may be another culprit.

I loaded a factory pdf on code P0300-diagnostic aids, causes, and solutions. 

Thank you, Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago
Greetings and good morning. I like to check in every day and find out if you have made any progress in diagnosing why your car stalls out when you press the gas pedal with the guides I provided? Is there any more information I can offer you?

Thank you, Danny

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Good morning, Danny. I went to message you last night when I was underneath my vehicle however my phone died.So anyways, as I was in the driver seat I s noticed the dash did something my mustang would always do when the bass would hit..... The lights dimmed. Except with it being synced with bass, it was synced with how my engine was running. Which pointed me towards the battery and doing positive voltage drop.
I'd like to do a negative voltage drop but how would I go about doing it with the ground connected on the engine block without having to stick my arms between the pulleys and belt that are waiting to cause some damage if I stick my arm there? Any suggestions on how I could do a positive voltage drop for the fuel pump if my leads don't reach from battery to the pump?Also, I'm waiting for my other phone to charge all the way so I can get the photos I took while under the car of some wiring, which by the time I get done testing the battery, it should be good to turn on.
If for some reason the battery is bad, which it really shouldn't be considering it's not that old, but IF it is, doing voltage drop with a crap battery would be pointless, huh?
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Good morning. It sounds like you have a voltage drop—a compromised wire. Perhaps a wire that is severed but not cut in half. I'm sorry, I have a doctor's appointment soon so I will be away from my computer until about 1 pm today.

Please have your battery tested for LOAD at the closest auto parts store...it is free. 

I'm going to include a guide on voltage drop below to read and understand. 

  • Continuity, voltage, current/load draw, resistance test procedures are necessary to confirm the integrity of a wiring system.

When current starts flowing through a wire, resistance takes a back seat to conductance, which can be checked only by flowing current through the wire.

Voltage drop/load is measured by reading across the load. You can only test voltage drop or current load if the electrical system is hooked up and turned on.

A digital voltmeter can't detect high resistance or voltage drop (Load).

If you cut a ten-strand wire in half, it will show 12 volts but only carry half the current draw. Continuity and voltage check okay, but load drops voltage when a load is applied because the wire is compromised—the single most confusing and misdiagnosed electrical procedure.

The best way to introduce an electrical load to a circuit is with a Load Pro Circuit Tester or a light bulb. (headlight)

Probe the connector end of your load tool into the pin in the connector to the wire and circuit you want to test-hook the other probe to the other end of the wire and apply a load to the circuit in question. Push the "load" button on your load tester-If the voltage drops and you have a faulty wire, connector, or component.

If the voltage and load are within range, go to the next pin.

I find that a voltage drop of about .5 to 1.0V, depending on wire gauge and length, is not uncommon and is expected based on my experience.

If the voltage drop is more than 1.0V, the wire has failed the load test.

The four types of faults you're testing for when checking a circuit:

  • A short to ground,

  • A short to power,

  • A short across circuits and

  • An open wire or high resistance.

Short to the ground and short to power is straightforward. Either power or ground exists in a circuit where it shouldn't be. (Copper to copper).

Same with a short across circuits. But testing a wire's ability to carry the current that's demanded of it is where pinpoint tests tend to fall short.

Please read this article I wrote and absorb it. It would be best to have a load tester ( a headlight introduced to the circuit will work, although the Load Pro is easier and more accurate).

Thank you for listening and cooperaing. These things are hard to work out.

Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Greetings, I’m going offline at 6 pm EST after a busy day. It would be best if you did not think I abandoned you. I look forward to receiving a response and or the requested information so I can continue to help you solve your problem.

Best Regards,

.

Thank you for your cooperation, Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Good morning Seth; you have not responded in several days. I must post a definite answer within two days, or the link will expire. I want to continue our diagnosis and repair.

Please respond soon, or I will offer a general answer using the information provided.

You can request me by adding me to your favorites. You can also go to JustAnswer.com then type "For Danny L ASE ONLY" at the beginning of your question.

Best regards, Danny

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Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Good day Seth. I'm checking as a matter of importance. I've offered several solutions/answers to your question based on the information furnished. I'm not abandoning you. This thread remains open for a few more days. You should be able to make your repairs or make a good decision with the above guides.

It has been my pleasure assisting you; I hope I have given a satisfactory answer. If any of my solutions is unclear, please let me know. My goal is to deliver top-notch service; please let me know if you need further assistance. I invite you to ask me any follow-up questions. Thank you for using JustAnswer and me.

You can request me by adding me to your favorites. You can also go to JustAnswer.com then type "For Danny L ASE ONLY" at the beginning of your question.

Thank you for listening and cooperating. Best regards, Danny

Daniel Lehrman
Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 391
Experience: An automotive and light-duty truck mechanic for almost 50 years. ASE Certified, specializing in transmissions, engines, and drivability problems of any type.
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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Hey Danny, I apologize for disappearing there. I'm waiting for my load pro to be delivered and then I was going to get I. Touch with you. I was unaware that you were trying to reach me, which is strange because I thought I had mobile linked. We can go ahead and end this conversation and when the load pro gets delivered, I will reach back out to you. Was suppose to be shipped overnight but idk what's going on with it. Anyways, thank you for all the information you have given me and I will study the hell out of what you have said to me. Hope to talk with you soon. Thank you again for your advice and answer.
Auto Mechanic: Daniel Lehrman, ASE Certified Technician replied 5 months ago

Seth, thanks for reponding. I appreciate that you took the iniative to get the tools. Please let em know when you are ready to prodeeed.

Regards, Danny

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