Brand new rt 200 mini bike breaks don't work. RB200 mini…

Again. Let me know if you have any further questions along the way or if you are finding that the bleeding procedure isnt working. If it doesnt seem to be holding pressure. Ensure that all of the connections for the brake hose are tight. They should only need to be "firm hand tight" try not to over tighten as this may block the holes for the fluid internally. They can be stripped easily by over tightening.

How To Bleed Your Brakes

Follow these simplesteps to get the job done right.

When you press on your vehicle's brake pedal, it's brake fluid that does the work. Your legaction moves a plunger in the brake master cylinder that pumps brake fluidthrough the brake lines and out to the brakes. The fluid applies pressure tothe brake pads, which squeeze your vehicle's brake discs (or movebrake shoes into contact with the brake drums) and slow you down.

Brake fluid is thelifeblood of the brake system, and it is designed to work properly for several yearsbefore needing replacement. Over time, brake fluid loses its moistureresistance and begins to absorb small amounts of water, which not only reducesbrake performance but also can corrode key parts of the system. Replacing thefluid at appropriate intervals is a cheap and effective way to ensure thatyou're motoring in a safe vehicle, and it also can help you avoid having to payfor expensive brake repairs later on.

An essential part ofreplacing brake fluid is bleeding the system. That simply means ridding thebrake system of trapped air, but some of the old fluid is expelled as well.(Fully replacing the fluid is essentially an extended bleeding session.)Bleeding the brake system is something that anyone who's even marginally handywith tools can accomplish at home with the help of an able assistant. Here'show to bleed your brakes in a dozen easy steps.

STEP1: Consult your owner's manual to seewhich specific type of brake fluid your vehicle requires. (It's also good toknow at what intervals the manufacturer requires that it be replaced.) Thereare several different types of brake fluid, and they don't mix well. Head downto the auto parts store or dealer's parts department to pick up the correctfluid before you start working on the brakes. Good-qualitybrake fluid isn't expensive; you'll probably need two or three 12-ounce cans tobleed the system.

STEP2: Jack up your vehicle on level,solid ground (preferably a garage floor or driveway) and support it with fourjack stands placed at the jacking points shown in the owner's manual. (You canalways prop it up on cinder blocks if you want your neighbors to start worryingabout their property values.) It needs to be safely on solid footing while upin the air; the process of bleeding brakes will have you climbing partiallyunder the car at times. Remove all four wheels.

STEP3: Locate each of the four caliperbleeding screws, one of which is shown in a typical location in the aboveillustration. (Drum brakes also have similar bleeder screws.) Attempt to loosenthem gently, but if they resist, don’t twist the wrench with all of your might.If they're difficult to break loose, spray them with penetrating oil, let itsoak in for a half-hour, and then attempt to loosen them again. If they snapoff or strip, stop at once and take your vehicle to a shop and let aprofessional deal with the issue. Once you've loosened each bleed screw, snugit back up again; you'll be bleeding one brake at a time, and the other screwsneed to be closed so no air gets sucked into the system. Air bubbles are theenemy of brakes systems; they make your brake pedal feel mushy and reduce thesystem's performance.

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STEP4: Get the hood up and check thefluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. Its location is likelyshown in your owner's manual. Add fresh fluid if it’s lower than the marked“full” line on the clear reservoir. Make sure you've got the correct fluid foryour vehicle (see step 1). During brake bleeding, the master-cylinder capshould be left unscrewed but still in place atop the reservoir. Each brake mustbe bled in the correct sequence. Generally, you bleed the brake most distantfrom the master cylinder first, but some cars require a different order. Thatinformation is available in the factory manual or from your dealer’s servicedepartment.

STEP5: Fit one end of a piece of cleartubing (usually ¼-inch in diameter) tightly over the end of the bleeder screwof the first brake you'll be bleeding, and put the other end into a catchcontainer—a discarded beer can or plastic soda bottle will do. Make sure thetubing is long enough so that you can hang the catch container above theheight of the bleeder screw; this will keep any air trapped in the tubing fromsneaking back into the caliper.

STEP6: It's time to get your ableassistant involved. With the car’s engine off, have your helper pump the brakepedal for several strokes until they feel solid resistance underfoot. Theassistant should shout “Pressure!” when a firm pedal is achieved. Have themmaintain pressure on the pedal.

STEP7: While the assistant maintainspressure on the pedal, open the bleeder screw a small amount. Fluid will passthrough the clear tube, and the pedal will begin dropping toward the floor.Have them continue pressing the pedal towards the floor.

STEP8: Just before the pedal reaches thefloor, the assistant should yell “floor!” or "down!" Quickly closethe bleeder screw  the moment that you hear that warning.Now check the master cylinder reservoir’s fluid level; add brake fluid ifnecessary to keep it topped up.

STEP9: Repeat steps six through eight atleast five times at that wheel location until the stream of fluid flowingthrough the clear tubing is free of air bubbles.

STEP10: Now repeat steps six through 9 atthe remaining three brake locations in the proper sequence. That means movingfrom the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder to the one next closestand so on.

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STEP11: When you've completed bleedingall four brakes, ask your assistant to apply full effort to the brake pedalfollowed by an abrupt release of that effort. Observe the motion of the fluidin the master-cylinder reservoir. If there is a substantial fluid eruption,there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleedingprocedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid, however,indicates a properly bled brake system.

STEP12: Double-check that all the bleederscrews are tight. Again, apply solid pressure but not all of your strength totightening them—you don't want to snap them off—before reinstalling the car’swheels. Congratulations, you're done!

Attachment is with microsoft office. I have attached the procedure above as well. You would most likey need to download the attachment to a computer that has office installed to view. Read over the procedure, Try another bleed and let me know what the results are. If you have moved the adjustment screws at a prior to bleeding. You may have to adjust them back to original position and then bleed the system.

You are very welcome! Im glad to hear that worked for you. Is there anything further I may be able to assist you with?