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Thank you in advance... 988 Ford F250 with a 5.8l fuel

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I need help. Thank you...
I need help. Thank you in advance...
988 Ford F250 with a 5.8l fuel injected...
1988 Ford F250 with a 5.8l fuel injected engine and 5 speed manual transmission.
Here are the symtoms: truck starts and idles fine when it's normal temps outside. It is a little harder to start when it's really cold and at first idles a little rough. I think this is just the temp outsidebothering it. My main issue is, when I turn on the heater the truck shakes and almost dies it at an idle. I can give it gas and it kinda cleans up but once I let off. It starts to shake and idle is rough again.
I've replaced alternator, battery and cleaned the IAC.... Here is the strange part but I'm sure it's the problem solver. If I remove the drive belt and use the heater. It does not affect the truck at all. There is no ac compressor on truck. It has ps/wp/alt/ap. I'm guessing it's a vacuum line or vacuum controlled part that is my issue. Just not sure which one or where to start.
Submitted: 23 days ago.Category: Car
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Answered in 11 minutes by:
4/1/2018
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago
Gene
Gene, Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 6,255
Experience: ASE Master 28 years experience, Ford Trans Tech/SMT, Toyota, Mitsubishi,Hyundai Tech.
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Hello, and thank you for using Just Answer! My name is***** me a few moments to review your question and Ill do my best to assist you.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Thank you Gene.
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Hello, for the cold start you can have an issue with the engine coolant temperature sensor not reading correctly and dumping too much fuel, or you have a fuel injector leaking down and it is flooding a cylinder when cold and causing the hard start. The first thing I would do is see if any codes are stored by jumping the diagnostic connector as shown in the attached file and count the check engine light. The running without the belt doesn't make sense unless one of the belt driven parts is hanging up, the air pump is the most common culprit of being seized or dragging but check them all. If any code are stored let me know and we can go over them from there.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
How do I know when each code reading is done. For instance I got 2 flashes in a row. Then a 5 second pause. Then 2 then long pause then 1.
I'm more concerned about the heater issue. Is there a way to test the ap
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
How can I test the IAC?
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

The heater issue may be related and this is the first thing you do, if the engine is stalling as I mentioned check the pullies for binding and check to see if any codes stored are pointing to a stalling issue. The codes will repeat when done.

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Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

A quick test of the iac is to see if the idle drops or engine goes to stall when you unplug it, but this will set a code when you disconnect it.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
There is barely a drop at all. Can hardly even notice it. Also when testing with voltmeter it's the same voltage if the heater is on or off.
If I took the belt off should it be harder to turn the AP when heater is on, or same as it it's not.
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

I would replace the iac valve and retest it, preferably with a ford one, it might cost a little more, but the aftermarket ones can cause issues/made cheaply. the heater shouldnt affect air pump operation at all

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
F=flag
. = Pause. (so one . Would be a short time between flashes 2 would be longer pause)
F. . F.F. . . F. . . F.F. . . F.F
Did this make sense. That was all that it did.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
F=flash
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Sounds like there is a code 21 for the engine coolant temp sensor. Code 22 is for the MAP sensor if it has a MAP sensor. This can cause a stalling under a load as well if there is an issue with the MAP. I would replace the IAC valve, disconnect the battery to clear codes. Operate the vehicle until it gets to normal operating temperature. If it still has an issue, retest for codes. If it resets a code 22, replace the MAP.

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Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

code 22 would blink 2 times, pause a second and blink 2 times again. then a longer pause and on to the next code if one is stored.

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Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Do you need more help with this concern?

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
I replaced IAC, no different
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Then I would clear and recheck to see if the map sensor is flagging a fault, do you see the rpm drop with the new iac unplugged?

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
What about my throttle body sensor.
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Only if it set a tps sensor code, the wiring looks damaged to it or you have a flat spot in the throttle.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Is there a way to test AP? Like I said it runs fine without the belt on.
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Either it is pushing air or it isnt, thats pretty much how it works. The heater should not affect the air pump. Its not commanding a higher rpm when turning on the heater.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Gene I'm going to catch up with you on Monday. Is that ok? Enjoy the holiday,
Auto Mechanic: Gene, Auto Service Technician replied 23 days ago

Absolutely, have a nice Easter.

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