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I have a 1996 Acura 2.5 TL. Both front motor mounts went out…

I have a 1996...

I have a 1996 Acura 2.5 TL. Both front motor mounts went out according to my friend who is a mechanic. I had him start to replace the motor mounts with two used ones when one was replaced it still didn't work. Is this a common problem with these particular type of motor mounts because they have a vacuum set up that is attached to the engine itself or is it something else? Is the problem that I need two brand new motor mounts or is there another solution? I checked with all the local parts stores and only found one that has these particular mounts they're about $364 a piece. Can you help me?

Mechanic's Assistant: Have you checked the battery, particularly the terminal connections? Are they corroded?

No, I feel stupid asking this but why would that be the problem?

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your TL yourself? What have you tried so far?

No a friend of mine who is a retired mechanic suggested I buy 2 used front motor mounts and have him install them, the reason why I wanted to buy them used is because they're so expensive like I said they are $364 a piece new.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Not really, just have questions and concerns.

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Answered in 4 hours by:
3/15/2018
Danny
Danny, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 4,282
Experience: ASE Master Technician with L1 advanced engine performance, VW Certified, former US Army mechanic
Verified
First of all buying used motor mounts is a horrible idea that's like buying a used clutch, I'm going to try to put this as nicely as possible without trying to insult your friend but I would seriously doubt the mechanical knowledge of anybody that would recommend buying used motor mounts. It's like buying used brakes, it's basically completely and totally pointless.Is your vehicle actually having an issue or why did he recommend the mounts? Were you complaining about a vibration or something or did he just noticed them being bad?
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I'm having an actual problem while driving the car it feels like it's stalling. We popped the hood put it into gear applied the brake and the engine was moving all over the engine compartment. New motor mounts for a 1996 Acura TL are $364 a piece I cannot afford that I'm on a limited income that is why I bought them used. Can you help me is there any other solution?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I'm wondering if maybe this is a common problem with Acura motor mounts that are vacuum operated and want to know if it is for sure the motor mount itself it is not working.
Well it's common for motor mounts of all vehicles to fail, but if what you're asking is is it common but if what's your asking is is it common for vacuum operating motor mounts to fill internally in a way that when solenoids open to operate the motor mounts it create the vacuum leak because the motor mounts are internally leaking I've never seen that happen, no.However it would be a very easy test by simply clamping off the vacuum lines that go to the motor mounts.However a vacuum leak is not going to create a problem with a vehicle feels like it's stalling while driving it would only create a rough idle or stalling at idle.Is the check engine light on? If it is you should use a scan tool to get me the actual fault code number.Imagine it feels like it's stalling while driving is far more likely to be a faulty fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor.Please explain feels like it's stalling while driving. Does that mean in between shifts it tries to die when the RPM drops, does that mean when you give it Full Throttle it completely lacks power, what exactly does that mean.
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
My friend did not recommend that I buy used auto parts. New motor mounts for a 96 2.5 TL will cost me $364 a piece which is more than I can afford that is why I bought them used. He is highly qualified mechanic over 20 years and retired. I told him that the car felt like it was stalling when I was driving, that's when we popped the hood and saw that the motor was moving around in the engine compartment. I told him that it felt like a jerking motion like someone was hitting the gas and letting off of it quickly over and over again rapidly. It's not stalling when it idles and doesn't have a problem while shifting. It's not completely without power when I punch it it's more intermittent like it loses power for a second and then surges to normal Power again. The vacuum to the motor mounts is working fine he informed me. It seems strange to me that neither the motor mounts that are currently on the car or the used ones are not working, that is why I asked if there may be another problem. The reason why it feels like it is stalling when I drive is probably because the engine is moving around so much. The car doesn't have a check engine light that tells you when something's wrong with the car it has a indicator that comes on and only tells you that it's due for service. Would a fuel pump or a crankshaft problem make the engine move around like it does? Like I said I'm on a limited income and need answers, can you help me?
Your vehicle is a 97, every car in the world after 1996 has a check engine light and was able to be scanned with an obd2 scan tool.Prior to 96 vehicles we're still able to be scanned it's just that there was no Universal protocol, the United States mandated in 1996 that everything had to be Universal and meet the OBD2 standards and the rest of the world went along with it.So I would scan the vehicle for faults.It's possible that when the engines moving around it's opening up a vacuum leak like if there's a rip in the intake boot or one of the vacuum hoses sometimes an engine will move, it'll temporary open the whole little bigger and the engine will drop power like what you're saying.But yeah get it scanned it's really necessary.
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
if I understand correctly I need to find out what's making the engine move around so much in the first place mainly by checking for vacuum leaks or to see if it is something else by using the OBD2 tool first instead of trying to figure out why it's not being held securely in place. Does that mean it may not be the motor mounts?
No, I think the motor mounts are faulty, and that you put another set of faulty motor mounts on the vehicle.Motor mounts are a wear item like shocks and struts are, by the time a vehicle has 100k miles on it, there's absolutely no chance that the mounts are still good, it's just a question of how bad they are.Your mounts may have been really bad, and it created an issue by tearing a hold in a hose and creating a vacuum leak, or breaking the wiring someplace. That created a situation where the engine was REALLY moving around a lot.Now that you've replaced the motor mounts with other ones, they may be better, but you still have a hose with a hole in it or something, and now even a slight amount of movement is causing the hole in the hose to open up, making the vacuum leak bigger while the engine is flexed in a certain position, so you need to find that.The OBD2 scan tool will tell you if there's a wiring issue or a vacuum leak, if you don't find any fault codes in memory, do me a favor and go into the real time sensor readings, and read the map sensor reading either in inches of vacuum if it will tell you that, or sensor voltage.Also look at the long term fuel trims at idle and cruise, or the oxygen sensor voltage for bank1 sensor 1.Report back on the map sensor reading at idle and 2000 RPM while sitting stationary, long term fuel trims idle and cruise, and oxygen sensor voltage along with any other fault codes and we will go from there.
Danny
Danny, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 4,282
Experience: ASE Master Technician with L1 advanced engine performance, VW Certified, former US Army mechanic
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
When I took my car to another mechanic for a second opinion and an estimate I found out that the distributor is not working properly. I could see myself that the plug wires we're not working properly they were not all sparking when he ran the test they seemed to be intermittent. He pointed out which plug wires were not working and I could clearly see it myself. Based on his test he determined that the distributor wasn't working properly. I felt like he really knew what he was talking about he only looked at it for a short while and could tell right away by the tests and what he saw that what the engine was doing that the distributor was not working right he did not hook up an OBD tool. He showed me cracks in the motor mounts and agrees with you that they need to be replaced with new ones he told me to replace all three of them though. He told me that they have some aftermarket motor mounts that don't require a vacuum or hydraulic system that would be a lot cheaper. He said to fix the distributor first then the motor mounts. I'm trying to get online and find out if Rock Auto has heard of these aftermarket motor mounts. After I fix the distributor if that doesn't fix the engine problems then I would like to get back to you if that's okay with the specs that you're asking for but that might take a little time. After talking to him I think I have a better understanding of the difference between what's going on with the engine and what's going on with the motor mounts based on what he showed me and told me.
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