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It will not stay running. I replaced the battery, sprayed…

It will not stay...

It will not stay running. I replaced the battery, sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body. It turns over, runs out the ether then dies.

Mechanic's Assistant: Will the headlights turn on? Is the battery fully charged?

Yep headlights working and battery fully charged.

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model/year of your Lincoln?

2002 Lincoln towncar

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your vehicle yourself? What have you tried so far?

I deployed for 90 days and my brother was starting it for me. He said it wouldn’t start the last month before I came home. The battery was dead when I got back so I replaced it. I also just replaced the fuel filter myself.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Sorry about that, I had to take a call. Anyways, I’m doing the work myself unless it involves heavy electrical work then I’ll have to turn it over to a professional.

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Answered in 1 minute by:
1/23/2018
Edward
Edward, Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 3,745
Experience: 20 + years experience on various makes and models.
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Hello and thanks for your question. My name is ***** ***** I will do all I can to help.

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Do you have a volt meter or 12 volt test light by chance?

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I think it's low on fuel pressure, or the fuel pump has failed, because it does run briefly when you give it starting fluid correct?

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
I might have a voltage meter but I suck at electrical work

I understand, Do you know where the inertia switch, or fuel pump safety switch is on that vehicle?

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
It’s in the trunk and not popped

Alright, what I would like for you to do, is check and see if there is power on both of those wires going in and out of the inertia switch, while cranking, you can use a 12 volt test light as well, I want to see if the fuel pump is getting power to it. If it is getting power to it, we need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail, I'm thinking the fuel pressure is the problem though.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Ok standby

There is a GREEN/YELLOW wire going into the inertia switch, then PINK/BLACK goes out of the switch on to the fuel pump. You have to check it when cranking though , it will just have power for 2 seconds when you turn the key on.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
It didn’t light up.

OK, did you check it against the vehicles battery to make sure it works correctly?

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You checked it while cranking correct?

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Yep, it worked on the batt. And I checked it while cranking

Alright, give me just a few minutes on my end, did you check the GREEN/YELLOW wire as well? no power on that one either?

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
No voltage on that one either. But my voltage meter is old, it was passed down to me after my father passed. Also, I went to Autozone to get a new fuel pump relay but it was different style then what the owners manual shows. The one in my car is small and light beige or gray in color with five tangs. The one from AutoZone is black and much bigger. Which is right?

But the voltage meter does work at the battery correct?

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
It did, but the positive lead is cracked. I had to wrap a wire around it to insert into the kill switch cable. It didn’t show any voltage, but I did just find a tester light in my spare fuse container. The yellow one with two prongs that says Maxi, ATC, or ATM. It lights up when I place it on the battery or the switch cable. Is that because they just have continuity and power?

Can you up load a picture of it? not sure exactly what you have there with two prongs, most 12 volt test lights just have 1 pointer and the other end is a wire with an alligator clip on the end of it.

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Alright, put your meter on the DC 75 scale, and measure the battery red to positive and black to negative and see if it reads anything on the meter. that yellow meter is not going to work on this vehicle I don't think, it's 24 volt and were working with 12.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Ok, this where we are. The meter is shot, it has something loose bouncing around inside. I have to go get a new meter. While I got you though, if the power checks out do you think it’s the pump? And if so can it be changed without dropping the tank?

I follow you, let me confirm one thing on my end, give me just a few minutes, thank you.

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Alright, your fuse box should look like this one, this is the position of the fuel pump relay, with the key ON, does your check engine light come ON in the dash? it should light up with just the key on. also, get a 12 volt test light, and check for power to two of the pins in the fuel pump relay socket, two pins down in the socket should be hot with key on and the relay out. I don't want to assume the fuel pump has no power yet until we check it at the inertia switch, If you confirm that then try another fuel pump relay, if that doesn't fix it, then it does possibly have some wiring issues that I would probably recommend getting someone that specializes in electrical take a look at.

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Disregard that link, look at this link, to the owners manual, the fuel pump relay is relay number 1 in this box. on page 163.

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/02towog1e.pdf

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Ok, thank you! I’m running to the store to get a new tester. The check engine light comes on and the instrument panel lights up. Can I resume this conservation with you or do I have to end this session while I run to the store? I’m on my cell phone by the way.

The tank does have to come out to replace the fuel pump by the way. No way around it, as the pump is in the tank on this model and not on the frame rail.

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OK, if the check engine lights up then that tells me the engine computer is powering up which means it should be grounding the relay, get you a 12 volt test light and we can continue. it should look similar to this.

Edward
Edward, Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 3,745
Experience: 20 + years experience on various makes and models.
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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Ok, heading out

Sounds good, check the wires at the fuel pump safety switch again with a test light and let me know what you have there, be sure and put the clip on some good clean metal, scratch the metal if it's painted, hard to ground the clip through the paint.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
I got the tester, the batt and the relay lights up. But the fuel pump shut off switch does not.
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