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I cleaned the battery terminals now the car won’t start. It

cranks but won’t start. I...
I cleaned the battery terminals now the car won’t start. It cranks but won’t start. I have an 08 Outback 2.5i. I’ve tried disconnecting the negative terminal and taking it out of valet mode. I have the Security light blinking every 3 minutes. Thoughts?
JA: Does the light flash, blink or stay solid? Have you tried to reset the security system?
Customer: It blinks. I don’t know how to reset the security system.
JA: Are you fixing your Outback yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: Myself. I’ve tried removing and reinstalling the negative battery terminal and taking it out of valet mode.
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: The lights all work and the fob locks and unlocks the car.
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Answered in 19 hours by:
11/13/2017
Michael Solis
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 316
Experience: Lead Tech at Solis Auto Repair
Verified

Hello, my name is***** will be helping you out! I have over thirteen year of experience in the automotive industry for numerous different makes & models. I enjoy doing what I do, it is my life.

I am so sorry it has been a while since someone has responded, let me know if you still need assistance.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Hi Michael. Yes, I still need assistance. What are your thoughts about my situation?

ok there is a reset procedure we can try first if you like

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Put the key in the ignition and turn it from LOCK to ON three times within 5 seconds.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Sounds great. Is that a common problem — a need to reset when disconnecting the battery? If so, I couldn’t find the procedure. What’s the process?
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Are those all of the steps?

That is all :) key off to on within 5 seconds

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3 times within 5 seconds

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Then the car should start like normal? I’ve read a number of other processes that include opening and closing the driver’s door or removing the negative battery terminal.

It should, try this step first :).

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Ok. I’m currently away from the car so I’ll try it in a little bit and get back to you. Does it matter if the driver’s door is open or closed? Do I start on OFF and go to ON three times and back to OFF or start on ON and go to OFF three times and back to ON?

It should not matter open or closed, I have done this closed door. As long as you do off to on 3 times within 5 seconds it should disable the security light, it should not matter if you switch back off or leave it in the on. I usually do the procedure and end it with switch off then try to start it.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I tried the 3 rounds of on and off with the door closed and it didn’t work. Actually, I tried it twice. What’s next to try?

Do you have remote for it? do you have a spare key? Have you tried disconnecting the battery then reconnecting then attempting the procedure again?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have a remote and it works just fine — locks and unlocks. I don’t have a spare key. I tried disconnecting the negative terminal waiting 10 minutes and reconnecting. I also tried disconnecting, pumping the brakes (as I read on one site) then reconnecting. Nothing has worked. What next?

Do you have a scan tool capable of reading immobilizer?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I don’t.

ok let me check something

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Does the engine crank or move at all?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
The engine cranks but does slow on the second or third attempt. I also have full dash lights. I’ve tried to jump it from my truck and left the cables connected for about 10 minutes with the truck running. I didn’t notice any difference in the cranking.

Is it possible to somehow scan for codes? if not we need to check for spark pulse fuel pressure and compression

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I can try to get a scanner but it likely won’t be until tomorrow. However, why are you thinking fuel pressure and compression? It started and ran fine until I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. That’s when it wouldn’t start.

I am just wanting to know what we are all missing to get a better idea of what it can be. The basic procedure would be to check pulse,spark,pressure and compression. If we can get a scan done would be the first step

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If you have time, please take a moment to leave me a rating so I can receive credit for the question, it will mean so much to me :). We can still continue the question if you have more questions after rating me :). It was my pleasure.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
I don’t see a way to leave an official rating but I’ve been happy with your help. I ran the scan and there was one code - P2109, Abslt tbs 11.4%. I don’t think the throttle position sensor is the fault unless there’s some ancillary connection. What do you recommend now?
Looks like we may have found the problem, that definitely affects starting issue. Once I get near a computer here soon, I will give you a procedure we can run
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Do me a favor, see if the throttle body is not stuck in the closed position key off, see if you can push on the throttle blade with something and see if it moves, if it does not move and is stuck closed let me know :). You may notice it un free itself when attempting to see if the throttle is stuck.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I’ll check later this afternoon.

ok.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Just to make sure we’re talking about the same thing, I tried to open the butterfly that’s downstream of the air box at the upper back part of th engine and just prior to the intake manifold. It’s stuck closed. What now?

It is coincidental that you disconnected the battery then the starting issue occurred, but your throttle unit has seized up and failed.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
you’re saying that I now have two issues? What about trying to get it started? Can I reset the throttle unit?

If your throttle is stuck closed, it will not let the air induction system breathe properly thus, causing no start/stall. The voltage on the TPS along with the fuel/air mixture is not going to correlate with the PCM readings because of a bad throttle

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I know it won’t start without air getting in. It seems like a strange coincidence that removing the battery cables and a stuck throttle body just occurred together. Are you telling me that there’s no connection? No reset feature that would otherwise get past these 2 issues?
We have already attempted a reset would be only the immobilizer which we later found out was not the issue. With that code is a clear indication to a bad throttle unit. If you would like another expert’s opinion, I can opt out if you like :).
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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Thanks, ***** ***** would like another opinion.
No problem :). If another expert does not respond by Friday evening, I will come back to see if you need further assistance, take care and happy holidays!
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Also do not response until you get a response from another expert
Michael Solis
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 316
Experience: Lead Tech at Solis Auto Repair
Verified
Michael Solis and 87 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
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Mike V.
Mike V., Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 26,058
Experience: 25 years of experience, Certified Subaru Technician and Nissan factory trained.
Verified

Hi, new expert here.

Can you tell me if when you turn the key on, does the blinking security light go out or does it stay on solid?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Hi Mike. The blinking security light (every 3 seconds) goes out when I insert the key. I don’t need to turn the key for it to go off.
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Thanks Michael. Happy Thanksgiving.

Ok

This is not a security issue at all then.

Now, I don't agree with the other expert on the throttle body being the issue. You cannot move the plate on the throttle by hand, it's connected to an electric drive motor.

What I would rather have you try is to take the duct work off the throttle, and then have a helper turn the ignition on. You should see this move by itself. Look in with a flashlight if you have to,but you should hear the electric motor kick on for a couple seconds and also be able to see the plate move. Please try this and let me know.

Thank you.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I agree that since it’s driven by an electric motor, it shouldn’t move. I did not hear it engage and it did not move. I tried to ON and starting it; no movement. Could it have blown a fuse? What’s next?

Seems like to me you have a possible blown fuse.

Is the engine actually cranking normally? I saw up above something about it slowing down while cranking?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
No, not normally as it’s slow, much like cranking with a dying battery would sound. I gave a quick look through the fuses weeks ago but I didn’t notice anything wrong. Which fuse - ECU, maybe another?

The fuse that would power up the throttle is SBF 7 in the fuse box under the hood. It's worth a look because the throttle isn't moving. However, it's possible the engine isn't cranking fast enough to kick on the computer to get it running. It's got to be cranking at least 250 rpms for the cam sensor to kick on the computer. So, I know that you tried a jump, but I would like to have you try it again. Make sure you hear the engine on your truck bog a little when you connect the cables to it to make sure it's actually putting power into the car's battery.

Also of course, check that fusible link, it's got a clear top on it so you should be able to look in and see if the copper is broken.

Check it out and let me know.

Thanks.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
SBF 7 looks good. Where is the fusible link? I would normally see it on the positive cable but I don’t see it. I’d like to verify before i move my truck. BTW—i neve heard the truck bog down on the other attempts.

SBF 7 IS the fusible link my friend, that supplies power to the main relay which powers up the throttle body motor. Seems like you should hear something if the car is cranking slowly. That being said, if jumping is unsuccessful again, then I would pull a plug wire and check for spark. It's got to be missing fuel or spark, I am just concerned it's a battery issue going on here since it's turning over slow and didn't have a problem prior.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Truck didn’t bog but the cranking is faster. No start.
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Duct work still off throttle

Ok, let's check for spark now that it's cranking full speed. Pull the wire and set it next to something metal and look for spark while cranking.

Go ahead and hook the duct work back up also. First.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Duct work back on. Pull righty front plug wire and no spark. Thought maybe the boot was in the way so i grounded with a screwdriver. Still nothing

Ok, give me just a moment. Do you have a test light?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
BTW - it was a couple of days between terminal cleaning and the first time i tried to start it.

Ok, can you check for power on the red/green stripped wire on the coil?

Key on it should see power. Might have to be cranking, so if you don't see any power, then try it cranking.

Let me know.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I don’t see the wire.

Should be a 4 wire connector on the coil, if it's not red/green, see if there is a light blue wire.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I don’t see the coil. Can you point me in the right direction?

Ok, sorry, Follow the plug wires to the coil. I believe this model year they put it on the passenger side bolted to the intake manifold. Sorry for the delay.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
That’s what i thought but couldn’t see the connector. I can’t disconnect the connector to connect the test light. Anything else to try?

You should be able to back prbe into the connector to check for power.

There is a fuse in the relay box. Problem is I am not sure of the location.

I will send you a diagram of the box and if you can locate it, check the fuse I have highlighted for power and let me know.

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Sorry, I am not able to make a call at this time. Please give me a moment to see if I can locate a diagram of the relay box for you.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Ok. That’s th wrong fuse box diagram.

Because the wiring diagram doesn't give the fuse a number, you will need to use the test light to check for power on both sides of the fuses in that box. If you find a blown one, then replace it.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Since you can’t talk, so I get a refund for the call charge?
I don’t have that fuse box as i don’t have an air pump. I’ll try some of the other fuses.

You should have that fuse box as long as we are working on a 4 cylinder. Your phone request will open to all the other experts. You won't be charged unless you answer the phone. You've already paid the other expert when you rated his answer.

I need you to work with me here if we can. Take the coil off, whatever you have to do to get this wire tested on the coil so we can figure out which fuse is blown. Also, looking at the ignition switch, make sure you check SBF 6 as well.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I don’t have that panel. In the box there are only 2 panels. That panel you sent has an indication in the lid that those fuses/relays are only there on vehicles with an air pump. I doubt i have one as this is not a CA car.
I can’t get that connector off. I’ll keep checking the fuses one by one.
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
There are 3 relays in that box. They’re all seated. With no schematic on them, i can’t really test them.

No fuses in that box? I thought there should be about 3 or 4 fuses in there that could be tested. I'm not concerned with the relays, but the fuse is suppose to be in there according to my wiring diagram. If you can't locate the fuse, then the wire at the coil has to be tested. The probe on the test light should be able to be pushed into the back of the connector to test for power.

Is the car missing any electric inside? Headlights, dome light or radio or is all other electrical working fine?

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Correct, no fuses. All electrics in the car are fine. I can’t get my probe into the connector based on the angle of the connector and the pin on my test light. I tried again to take off the connector with no success. I have one other thing to try.

Try the blue/white stripped wire on the throttle assembly connector.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
you want the highlighted relays or the fuse marked E. BTW - that drawing is upside down.
Customer reply replied 25 days ago
Not upside down but backwards— the relays are on the right.

I can't help how the service manual is written. There should be some fuses in with those relays. They are the ones need testing. The first diagram I sent was accurate as far as what's in the box. If you can match it up, you should be able to tell which one I originally highlighted for testing.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I thought you might have rotated the drawing. I see 2 fuses (15 and 7.5) adjacent to those relays Hut i can’t test them right now. I need to take apart the lower dash to get to them. I’ll check them later.

Ok, well when you have time to test them, that could help lead to a conclusion. Don't know if you saw my comment about checking the wire out at the throttle body, the blue/white wire is on the same circuit. If it's got power we know the fuse is good.

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Customer reply replied 25 days ago
I did—thanks. I’ll let you know what I find.

ok

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Cary York
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 436
Verified
Phone call session started
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Mike - I hope you had a good Thanksgiving. I checked to 2 fuses that are on the panel with the relays adjacent to the inside fuse box. Both are fine. With the key to ON, I also checked the three wires in the throttle body plug - red has power, black (maybe blue) with white has no power, black with green has no power. I can’t check while cranking right now but could soon — need another set of hands. Which fuse from here?

Ok, if the fuses in the relay box had power, then for some reason we have to have a broken wire along here someplace. SBF7 powers the fuse in the relay box, and then that fuse supplies the power to the throttle blue/white stripped wire. So that would mean somewhere between the relay box and the throttle that wire is broken. This is also the same wire that powers the coil wire we were attempting to check.

If those fuses had power, I think we have to look for a broken wire. If you looked at the fuses and they appeard good, but didn't test for power, please do. It's the only fuse between SBF 7 and the throttle.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
There is power on one side of SBF7 with the key OFF and the same side with the key ON.

It should have power on both sides constantly, doesn't matter if the key is on or not.

You should take it out and get another one so we can eliminate it as the issue or prove it is the problem.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Just so where on the same page... I removed SBF7 to check for power and it was on one side only. If it should power on both side, then it must be somewhere else - broken wire or fuse. Assuming the latter, which fuse would be the problem?

We aren't on the same page, i thought you were testing it plugged in. It should only have power on both sides with the fuse in place. This is how we know the fuse is good. OR because you can't really check for power there, either swap it with another, or use a volt meter and ohm it. If it's got resistance then it's good. If not, then it's blown. Sometimes they can ool you.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Perhaps you mistyped— if it has no resistance, then it’s good. Otherwise, it’s bad. Right? I checked every 30 and 50 amp link and all of them have zero resistance.

No resistance means it's bad but it should show OL or infinite on a meter

I am sure not all of them would be blown, it should pop the main fusible link before it would blow all those. The main one is bolted in and like 150 amps. I know it's not blown because you have power to the fuses and fusible links.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Agreed, it would have blown the main link prior to blowing all of them but I still have full power inside. Since there all zero ohms, any other thoughts?

It would have to be a broken wire between the relay box inside the car and the throttle wiring and the coil is on that same circuit. I just can't see cleaning the terminals causing this kind of a problem. Blown fuse or fusible link yes, damaging a wire not so much. Can you put the meter on a lower setting to see if we can get some kind of number from it for resistance?

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
I agree. It doesn’t make any sense. I checked the links again (2, 30 amp and one 50 amp) and they are zero ohms.
I appreciate your help but I can’t spend any more time on this. I’ll need to get it towed.

I think so, I would really love it if you follow up with me and let me know what they find.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Ok

Thanks, ***** ***** sorry we couldn't get it from here!

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Customer reply replied 20 days ago
Turns out it was the throttle body - either the sensor or the mechanics. Since they’re integrated, I had to replace the whole assembly. I plan to do my own testing to see which exactly it is but the butterfly has certainly seized.

So you do have power getting to the throttle body then.

Sorry we were chasing the wrong issue, I didn't think you had power there.

Hope it's fixed soon and thanks for the follow up! Really appreciate it.

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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

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