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no, only when the motor stalls while in motion or at a stop
O'rielly's next door does not have the fuel pressure gauge available today. It'll be a tomorrow thing. Although note my friend holding the valve open said there was good pressure coming out as I turned over the motor. I know that's not an absolute test. The fuel pressure valve is a much easier fix than the fuel pump. I'm guessing the fuel pump would not operate intermittingly?
Ok, I'll see if I can get a test gauge on that fuel line near the intake. I guess I'll have to wait for a period of time until it starts to act up, yes? At this location in the diagnosis it includes the fuel pressure regulator valve and the fuel pump in the car tank. Can either one be the culprit? Is there another test fitting in front of the FPR valve to just test the fuel pump? thanks, Don
Hi Roy, a mechanic friend stopped by and ran a scan and determined it is the throttle control module. The car started right up and idled just fine for a short while. It started to stall and did then I started it again. It would gasp a few times while idling. He is very confident that that is the problem and he knows I have very little money and no current employment to continue to trade parts out. I sure hope this is the problem. Thanks,Don
He has put on a used throttle control module and a new inline gas filter. The car starts, idles for a bit then stalls. Starts up easily though. No codes show for the engine anymore but something is showing for the transmission. He is getting another analyser to verify. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, Don
30-35 lbs is the fuel pressure
pressure is too low, it should be 48-55 lbs. this could be the reason for starting and stalling.
Is the problem with the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump. What do I next to check to eliminate either. Thanks, Don
Fuel pump went in, pressure is up ,still stalls. What do you think? Nocodes come out.
It could have been a problem before but has now been replaced. The fuel pump has been replaced also. The problem stalling still exists. The motor runs like a kitten otherwise. Now my friend thinks it's the air control module near the air filter or even the computer. I told him I can't just keep throwing parts at this. I cannot afford it. I need Help!
The throttle body is the fixture in front of the intake manifold. He said it needed to be replaced and did. I had opened it up and cleaned it. It has just a butterfly valve in it. no other parts, no ports, electrical selinoid thing on top. the side panel has gears that were clean and nothing else. He said it was an electrical malfunction and had to be replaced. Afterward no codes were presented. He is thinking it's another piece nearer to the air cleaner, air control module?. It is inline with the the air hose just after the air filter box.
A basic scaner, plug in dash type. Does he need another type of scanner? If so he can borrow it or O'rielly may have the loaner. I just need to know what it is. Thanks, Don PS: Does this even sound like a culprit?
he has a basic scaner, plug in dash type. , PO 452 evaporative emmission system presure sensor switch low is what he is chasing now from his most current scan ..........a small sensing switch on the side of the fuel pump?
vacuum leak, ok........... idle until it warms up...........runs on the street maybe four blocks then I have to pump gas to keep it going..........to much of that and it stops in the street or the hiway until something clears.
thank you, XXXXX XXXXX you updated.
I haven't forgotton about smiley. I just didn't want to hit it and I loose your contact. I sprayed the throtle cleaner around at first try but sparingly and got no sound change. I didn't saturate totally thinking I'd need an extinguisher close by just in case. Hoses, intake maniold. If not then what? EGR? Somehow I thought that was in the throttle body. Thanks,Don
Could it be some sort of electrical sensor or fuse. It's fine until it warms up. If so where do I look. I'll check for a vacuum leak again. And have him do the scan thing again, Thanks,Don
Looked for the vacuum leak and found none. Sprayed carberater cleaner on hoses and manifold gaskets. No changes. Again tonight barely made it home from a three block test run. Ran fine three blocks just fine then died and was hard to start. Stuck on the street for about 10-15 minutes before it would start again and learched for one block each time. Runs fine until it warms up. Scan: PO 1125 DTC definitions...............PO 452 evaporative emission system sensor switch low.............P1295 DTC refer to vehicle manual are the
Well......................I don't know...... on a small 4-5 block test run it did not stall. Tomorrow I'll take it on a 15-30 minute run and see what happens. My friend thought it was another sensor. When the engine heats up it stalls. He pulled the sensor near the crank shaft out and ground down the end a bit just to clean it up. It has a magnetic tip. His thinking is when the engine heated up that the sensor with debris on it wasn't sending the right signal to the computer and the the motor would stop until it cooled down a bit but then reoccur as it heated up again. What do you think? Don
Hi Roy, Well, so far so good. Yesterday I was cautiously optomistic and after a couple of road runs the longest being 40 min out I think the fear of loosing my life-support transportation has resided. Thank you ever so much for your online support. You were a big help in just having some one in the know as back up. It's unfortunate that the crank sensor could not have been the first choice for the remedy but my mechanic assured me that the other work was needed also. I have avoided normal maintenance for a long time doing only that which is needed to keep it running just to get to work and a few errands close to home. I see on the internet that others have had the same problem and their mechanics have replaced everything it seems chasing the problem. Sad. Stories of thousands spent and to still have the stalling problem. I have dropped a comment on a few. In the very beginning of this ordeal I attempted to get an in depth diagnostic test from a local auto parts store. The $100 was quite a commitment on my part being currently unemployed and without unemployment insurance. If they could pin point the problem in the beginning maybe I could avoid a larger expense repair bill until I was back on the job and better able to handle it. Unfortunately the test was inconclusive for whatever reason, lack of technical experience with the diagnostic machine or my car problems. I was not charged the $100 nor did I get any answers. Whew, in one breath, and uh oh with the next. Thanks again for your help and I hope this correspondence will help others. I won't leave my phone number but I can be reached at [email protected], thank you so much again, Don Anderson
good glad to hear it is solved.
make sure you hit the smiley button so I get credit for my answers.
I'll hit smiley again. Maybe you'll get a two-fer credit. I see the email was gleaned. OK,.....hmmm.......lake tahoe don at g mail. com is another possibility. Thanks again, Don
lake tahoe don at g mail com