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K. Wiggins
K. Wiggins, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 2956
Experience:  ASE Certified Technician, Associates Degree in Automotive Technology, 15+ years in the trade
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Isuzu Rodeo: I have a 2000 Isuzu Rode LS with a 3.2L eng. I

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I have a 2000 Isuzu Rode LS with a 3.2L eng. I would like to start by saying, this stuff could only happen to me. Anyway, I was changing the plugs in the Isuzu and was down to last one, the hardest one on the drivers side near the firewall. Then the coil pops off the boot and the boot gets stuck inside. It stuck real good to. I used a pick and took half of it out but my pick is not long enough to get all the way down. It would only come out in pieces. Should I just keep picking away at this rubber boot like a surgeon until there is no more left? If I can't get it all, will I have to take the valve cover off? I wouldn't be surprised if the spark plug broke off too when I get to that point. Any ideas before I make a bad situation worse?

Mark C.
Hi Mark, Sorry to hear about your problem, been there a time or two myself. I've found the trick is tho try to split as much as you can with a pick and then use a pair of extended needle noose pliers to try to grab at the rest while twisting and pulling.
Pulling the valve cover will not help much as there is a metal sleeve (spark plug tube) machined into the head.
Another trick that has worked for me over the years is to get on of the cheap sockets they sell for .99 cent at the parts house, tape it to an extension and with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer tap it on the plug once there isn't much boot left. Then put your weight on the ratchet and turn her on out.
I'll post a pic of the pliers I'm speaking of below.
try to find the cheaper ones so you won't feel bad about grinding down the outside to make them fit better in the spark plug tube.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I have a set of those needle nose but the plug in question is in the back near the firewall. AC pipe in the way and a few other things. If I can find a pair of these slightly angled that might work. Guess I will w be picking away tomorrow.



Mark C.

Got ya, If there's a harbour freight tools in you r area check there. They carry the angled ones as well. Sorry I don't have much of a "good news" answer it's just going to be a lot of pick work an trying to grab larger pieces with the pliers.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

OK, few more questions. Will I need a new coil along with the new boot when I'm done? Does the boot cover the nut of the spark plug or does it just go over the ceramic part?

You can purchase just the boot and spring assembly. For cylinders 1-5 it's STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # XXXXX for cylinder 6 its STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # XXXXX I'll post the cylinder locations below for you.

Also the bot does not cover the "nut" part of the plug.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok. Almost done. Couldn't get the rubber pieces out of the channel. Too much stuff in the way. So, I took out the master cylinder and power booster. Made it a lot easier and the boot came right out. Got it back together but the brakes don't work. I'm guessing they need to be bled. I'm sure there is air in the lines. Is there anything I can do to get the brakes to work good enough to get the car to Brake Masters to have them bleed them? I don't know anything about brakes, unfortunately.


Thanks for your help so far. The big pliers were the trick once I got the brake stuff out of the way.


Mark C.

I'll be right with you having to reboot my router
Back and sorry for the delay. I'm sure we can get this bleed enough to make it to a shop. You're going to need a helper to press the brakes and a bottle of brake fluid.
Start by filling up the master cylinder. Have your helper pump the brakes about 10 times. Tell them to keep holding the brake pedal down. Now you need to go to the master cylinder and crack the brake lines. Some fluid should start to dribble out. Tighten both lines back up. and repeat. You want to do this until you have a good little "spray of brake fluid when you crack the lines. It should take 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn on the nut.
Once you have the spray at the master cylinder go to the front wheels. At the top of the brake caliper you;ll see a bleeder screw. Soak it down good with some kind of penetrating oil( WD-40, liquid wrench etc)
Now have your helper pump the brakes several times and again hold them. Take your wrench and crack the bleeder screw on the caliper. You should hear some air and see a dribble of brake fluid. Keep repeating this procedure until you get a good stream of brake fluid. It may take 5-10 cycles of pumping and holding the brake pedal while you crack the bleeder.. Once that wheel is done got to the other front wheel and repeat.
The front brakes do about 70% of the work so as long as you have the air out off there you'll be safe to drive at a slow speed.
Also if you have ABS follow this procedure
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Pic of bleeder location on caliper