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Mike S.
Mike S., Mechanic
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 7433
Experience:  25+ years experience as an auto mechanic.
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Right rear Brake Shoes cooked for now apparent reason, replaced

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Right rear Brake Shoes cooked for now apparent reason, replaced everything, including the Wheel Cylinders, now, even with new Rotors, Pads and Calipers, periodically I hear a clunking sound coming from the front Brakes, and feel it through the Floor. I have checked the Calipers, and Pads, nothing loose, nor dislocated.

What the bleep is going on here?
Hi there - not sure what you are working upon, but have you considered a seized emergency brake cable, or a pinched or twisted flexible brake line? This is regarding the rear brakes. Regarding the front brakes, is the rotor finish really smooth? A rough rotor finish can cause the brake pads to jump around and make noise.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The E-Brake works freely, and releases, and when the Brakes were done, everything from the Backing Plates outward (Wheel Cylinders included) were replaced, the backing Plates were cleaned, and the contact points where the Brake Shoes rest against the Backing Plates were sparingly lubed to insure the Shoes wouldn't bind against the Backing Plates.

What type of vehicle are you working on?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry, would have helped if I told you that. The vehicle is a 2002 Dodge Dakota SLT Quad Cab 4WD, with rear anti-lock Brakes.

OK - going by symptoms, if the master cylinder were an issue, I think both rear brakes would over heat. The Antilock brake controller, or the proportioning valve. But I really don't like either of those options either, because the rear wheel are fed hydraulic pressure equally. This leaves pinched lines... how did that RR wheel cylinder bleed?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Both left and right bled well, no difference in volume of fluid.

OK - I'm out of ideas - back out to the other experts... Sorry... did my best.
Canuck Tech, Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 536
Experience: Red Seal Journeyman Technician, 20 Years experience
Canuck Tech and other Car Specialists are ready to help you

Are the rear brakes ok now? Is the only problem with the noise from the front?

Does the noise from the front happen while just driving, turning the steering wheel or only while braking?

Is it a constant clunking sound like everytime the wheel completes one revolution or is it intermittent?

Was the noise present before the brake work was done?

Has all the steering and front suspension parts been checked out and ruled out as a cause or source of the noise?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Just replaced the rear Shoes, so far, no problems.


The noise only occurs when braking, and doesn't occur all the time. Checked both front Brakes, nothing out of place. Haven't found anything, but suspecting maybe Control Arm bushings.

You said you have a 2002 Dodge Dakota SLT Quad Cab 4WD with a clunking from the front and you suspect now upper control arm bushings. Go ahead and look at them to see if the rubber is completely gone but I did find a recall on the upper ball joints, click here.

It says, "A seriously worn ball joint may cause a “clunking” noise to develop in the front suspension."

It was caused by, "Water may enter into the front suspension upper ball joints on about 600,000 of the above vehicles and cause corrosion and premature wear."

It includes instructions. Have you owned this vehicle since it was new? Did anyone ever contact you about this recall?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No I bought it used from a Ford Dealer about 1-1/2 years ago. I saved that recall though, and will check into that item soon.

Ok, When done, please click the “Rate to Finish” tab and then choose Ok Service, Good Service or Excellent Service.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

May be a few days before I can have enough time to check out this Ball Joint possibility, but thanks for the heads up on the recall.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Trying to reach you, cannot.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Need to talk to you some more.



Hi there - were you looking for Canuck Tech or the other Expert?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The other gentleman

Sorry, I fell asleep. What is it?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

System won't allow a reply..




You just did.
Or are you trying to rate me and need an answer from me like this?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

An answer


Customer: replied 4 years ago.


I don't understand!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

That may be the tech team trying to debug the Website.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Have tried replying via E-Mail.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

This is what I get when I try to reply to you.


You don't have permission to access "" on this server.

Reference #18.ec0c2017.1366767858.280b8d50

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I did some research and found out that the Upper Ball Joint recall repair was performed in 2005, so if the Ball Joint is failing again, then that would be on my dime, not Fiat-Chrysler's . Also wondered if an under torqued Hub Nut might be a possible source of my oise.
Would also like to add, that just prior to redoing the front Brakes, I had been experiencing two problems with the front Brakes. The first problem, was a pulsation upon applying the Brakes. The second, was the vehicle acted as though it was being held back, when accelerating again, after applying the Brakes. There would be a noticeable thunk, and then the vehicle would move forward more freely. Could it be that a sticking Caliper was masking another problem, and now the offending Caliper has been replaced, I am noticing the other problem more distinctly, and might it be possible, that the Ball Joint has failed again, or could it be the Control Arm Bushings going bad?

The pulsating brake could have been caused by a warped rotor or a rotor with an uneven thickness, which would have been cured with machining the rotors like they usually do during installing new pads.

The feeling of the brakes grabbing and not letting go could have been caused by the square-cut seals in the calipers not retracting the pistons after being applied, which should have been corrected by replacing the calipers.

Have you not checked the upper control arm bushings and ball joints by now?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I just checked the Control Arm Bushings, and they do not appear to be worn in any way that would allow the Control Arm to shift. I did however find Brake Fluid leaking from the connection between the left front Caliper, and the Brake Hose connection. While I'm 99% certain I tightened the connection sufficiently when I swapped out the Caliper on that side, and I did installed new Copper crush Washers, it is possible I didn't tighten the Bolt that holds the flex line to the Caliper quite enough. I am going to re-tighten the Bolt, Brake Clean any oozed fluid off the Caliper, recheck the Master Cylinder fluid level, and see what happens.


Once you stop the leak, bleed that side again.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I had planned on doing that, no telling that if fluid leaks out, air can get in, and thankfully I have an air operated Vacuum Bleeder (works off my Compressor) that makes one man Brake Bleeding oh so much easier.


THANK YOU for all your help so far, and hopefully I can stop bothering you soon.

You know of course, I have been continuing to help you even after you excepted the other experts answer from before and gave him the good rating.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes, I know you had taken over after the other fellow had gotten stumped. Would I owe you anything for your help? You've definitely gone above and beyond, and I do appreciate having someone to bounce my thoughts off, in regard to this annoying series of problems my Truck has presented me with. This isn't the first vehicle I've ever done Brakes on, but it certainly has presented me with its share of problems. I'd much rather be working on my 1960 Plymouth Savoy's Brake System, it is a SO much simpler system to deal with.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Okay, try not to fall off your chair laughing, when I tell you what the actual source of the leaking Brake Fluid was. Dumb ass me, didn't quite tighten the Bleeder Screw on the Caliper enough, and it was ever so slightly oozing from there, and running down the Caliper, past where the flex line bolts up. I tightened the Bleeder, washed everything down with Brake Fluid, rechecked everything after applying the Brakes several times, no leaks, and I will be bleeding that Caliper again, just to insure there is no air trapped in the system.


Feel free to send one free ass kicking for my being so careless as to not recheck the Bleeder after everything was initially assembled.

Yes, I would appreciate getting credit for my time, after all the other expert had already opted out.
Mike S., Mechanic
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 7433
Experience: 25+ years experience as an auto mechanic.
Mike S. and other Car Specialists are ready to help you