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sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 22983
Experience:  ASE Master and Advanced level certified. Factory trained with 15 years dealership experience
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I have a 2010 VW Routan. It was sitting for about 3 and half

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I have a 2010 VW Routan. It was sitting for about 3 and half weeks and now battery is completely dead. After jumping it, it dying overnight, replacing the battery, dying overnight, testing the battery and alternator to find nothing, and doing a parasitic draw test and removing two culprit fuses, it still reads .75 on my meter with no other fuses showing as bad. I am lost as what to check now. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
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I see your question has been up for an extended time without a response. Do you still need help?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes, I figured it would take a day or two to receive a response. I have not had any response and still need assistance.

Draw testing has to be done pretty specifically on modern vehicles. If you did the testing before the communication bus timed out then all modules will still be awake and drawing power.

Start with all doors closed and if you have a hood switch make sure it's pressed down as if the hood was closed. Leave the battery connected, press the lock button on the key fob.

Wait about ten minutes to ensure the communication bus and all modules are asleep.

Set your meter to the 20v DC scale and open the fuse box. All blade type fuses have two open terminals on top for voltmeter or test light use. One at a time at each fuse touch one meter lead to each open terminal on each fuse and read the meter. If you see any reading besides 0.00v testing this way that means there is current flowing through that fuse.

Go through all fuses this way and note which ones if any have current flowing through them, and then from there you can isolate components on that circuit. Make sure when testing that no doors are opened and no fuses are removed, removing fuses will wake modules up and skew your test results making it look like there is a draw when there isn't.

It's also possible that the alternator could be causing the draw if you find no other problems. To test this you would need to disconnect the battery and set your meter up inline to measure amps. A jumper wire would need to be placed between the battery terminal and post, allow the vehicle to go to sleep and then remove the jumper wire. After verifying there is a draw then disconnect the alternator field connector and see if it goes away. If it does then the alternator will need to be replaced. When testing with the meter in series at the battery you're looking for no more than .3-.4 amps.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I am a little confused on the alternator testing. Can you be a little more specific with the process. Thanks.

Set the meter up in series between the battery post and a disconnected cable. Set up a jumper wire between the two also. After 5-10 minutes remove the jumper wire, this allows enough current flow to let the modules time out. This would be the first step any time you're testing how much draw you have.

After verifying there is a draw (more than .4 at rest) unplug the two wire alternator field connector and see if the draw goes away. If it does then the problem is internal in the alternator.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

So I found that there was nothing wrong with the fuses, alternator, or battery. I had my bumper repaired the day before I asked this question and after they repaired the small dent in the bumper, the vehicle has not died once. Could it have to do with the alarm system needing to have been reset? They did run their diagnostic machine and found nothing wrong. It is strange if you ask me.

Unless you have an aftermarket alarm of some sort there wouldn't be anything that needed any kind of reset.

Sometimes battery draws can be intermittent, it may come back. If a module is locked up and causing the draw pulling a fuse will often reset it, so if fuses were pulled to try to test for a draw then that may be why it's gone now. If you do start having problems again then you'll want to check for voltage drop across the fuses like I described and see if you can find the circuit that way rather than removing any fuses.

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