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Randall C
Randall C, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 12831
Experience:  32 years Foreign / Domestic Cars All aspects of Diag and Repair
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Plymouth Voyager: Can someone walk me through a timing belt

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Can someone walk me through a timing belt and water pump replacement on my 1990 Plymouth Voyager and see me through to the end of the job?
Hello, I am Randall. I have reviewed your question and working on it now.
Are timing covers off?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No. The a/c belt is off but I haven't removed the crankshaft pulley yet. I thought maybe i should leave that belt on while I attempt to loosen the bolts holding it on.

ok, this is hard to just send everything in one simple answer so,, I will send the full repair information via the repair manual for pump and timing will be a link you click on in .pdf format
we have to start there. so please allow me some time, a few minutes +/- to gather this info and send to you. Back as quick as I can
grand voyager, regular voyager and what engine?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Regular Voyager , 3.0 V6 engine

thanks. bear with me a little bit
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok. Again, I am working out of the Haynes manual instructions and where I'm at now is trying to establish TDC for piston # XXXXX so that I can proceed. I'll be happy once the entire job is finished and the engine is running smoothly again, but I know this will take some time.

Ok, with so many stesp involved, it is impossible for me to wlak you through each and every step, not being there. Just too many. I have included links to 3 things in .pdf.
First is the water pump, 2nd is timing belt removal and 3rd is timing belt install
some things you will not be doing like removing the cam gears etc so ignor them. you only need to focus on the timing belt and the timing marks.
you do NOT need to worry about TDC top dead center) as when you align the crank gear as shown, it will be lined at TDC #1. so nothing needs to be done at distributor
I wish I could walk each step but can not. I suggest reviewing the repair info a few times, become familiar and then proceed.
the crank balancer is a bit tricky gettingt he bolt out of without air gun. you may have to go to the flywheel at trasn, near starter and wedge a bar in the teeth to hold engine from turning till you can get that bolt loose otherwise you need an airgun to remove it.

each file to upload is below click on each to upload the repair information for each

click HERE then click HERE then click HERE to get all 3 files

the post remains open after any rates to me for up to 14 days so you can still come back to this post after rating and ask any followups if needed

I hope this helps. please remember to rate my service before exiting the site so I can be credited for my time.

When you are satisfied with the information I’ve provided, I would appreciate your positive rating. I truly value your feedback.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thank you for your advice. I do finally have the timing belt covers off. I have not yet drained the cooling system as I wanted to wait until I could see the timing belt and water pump. Would you advise that I go ahead and drain it now before removing the belt?

Also, do I need to line up the timing marks on the 3 sprockets with their corresponding marks on the outside edges of the inner covers before removing the old belt? If so, how do I turn them now that the camshaft pulley and bolt are off? Thank you.

confused, whay do you have camshaft bolt and pulley off, do you eman crankshaft?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes, the crankshaft pulley and bolt are off. Sorry for the confusion.
You can drain at any point you are ready to.
You can approach the timing belt in 2 ways, either put just the bolt back in the end of the crank and turn to line up marks. OR take the belt off and turn the crank and cams gears individually till they line up and put belt back on.This method id done when timing belts break so eithr way is ok, To turn crank? you can put bolt back in or go back to the flywheel teeth/flywheel near starter and use a large scredriver to grab fylwheel teeth and turn the engine. easiest way is to put the bolt back in and use the bolt head on crank to turn the engine

I hope this helps. please remember to rate my service before exiting the site so I can be credited for my time.

When you are satisfied with the information I’ve provided, I would appreciate your positive rating. I truly value your feedback.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
There is a strong, short spring connecting the timing belt tensioner pulley to a nub on the water pump. None of the dealers or parts houses in the area carries the spring - neither by itself nor as part of a kit. I hate to have this whole job depend on a 20+ year old spring. If it breaks or weakens, then I lose tension on the timing belt and I have to do this whole job all over again (assuming my engine doesn't get destroyed). Maybe I can see if the local hardware store has something similar. What would you do?
Do NOT use a aftermarket spring. I undersand your concern but in 37 years and doing many of these, none have broken a spring to date. use the old spring
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks for your advice so far. I had an OEM spring shipped in and got the new water pump and timing belt tensioner pulley on. The water pump was a struggle because it did not want to align with and slide on to the water pipe. With considerable force and moving it around my wife and I finally got it on and it's now bolted firmly into place as per the torque specs.

The crankshaft sprocket came off quite easily, so I thought I'd replace the crankshaft front oil seal at this time, too. The manual says use a screwdriver to pry it out. I tried this unsuccessfully and I'm worried that if I use more force I might end up with a damaged, leaking seal that I still can't get out.

I wanted to do this because there was enough of an accumulation of oil & grit built up inside at the bottom of the timing belt case that it was almost touching the timing belt itself and I thought that would be bad but that a new seal would stop any further leakage.

Should I give up on replacing this seal or just apply more force with the screwdriver to pry it out? Or is there a special seal removal tool I should get? What would you do?

we generally use a screwdrivere between the seal and the crank, wedge it in, angle driver and pop it out. Not trying around the outer edge, must be in the center with thin screwdriver where th seal itself is
Randall C and other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks. I couldn't get the seal off that way, but was able to get it off by going in around the outside edge. So that's replaced, as is the timing belt, water pump, pullies back on, new drive belt & tensioner (I broke the old one ) installed, a/c bracket & compressor back on, engine support plate & motor mount re-installed and p/s pump & a/c tensioner pulley reconnected. The a/c hasn't worked for years and that belt was bad, so I didn't bother to re-install that - I figure it's just dead weight, anyway. I have refilled the cooling system and will monitor the coolant level once the engine is up and running. I have installed new plugs, a new distributor cap & rotor and cleaned up and reinstalled the wires. The oil is a bit low and should be changed anyway, so I'm thinking I'll do that now before attempting to start the engine. Any other advice before I turn the key?

Sorry for the delay, was away most of the day, have your turned the key? and?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The engine runs but seems a little noisier (just clicks and clacks more loudly) than before. It did sit on TDC for quite some time, so I wonder if it didn't like that. I plan to do test drive a little later...

be sure that oil is ok, watch lights on the dash, yes, get on a drive so lifters can pump up with oil.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks. I changed the oil and the vehicle sounded fine during two test drives this evening. But something new has developed: during slow turns I'm getting some unusual vibration up the steering column accompanied by a sort of groaning noise. I wonder if the p/s pump didn't like being unbolted from and reattached to the bracket (which I had to do to remove an engine support plate blocking access to the timing belt). I didn't notice any fluid leakage from the p/s pump during this project - might I have over- or under torqued the nut attaching the threaded stud on the p/s pump to the bracket? What should I do about this?

well, this is a difficult question not being there, If the pump is in line and the fluid full? You can only see if everything is tight, pump does not wobble. or feels losse , overtorque is not liklely. this I can not answer, certian things are near impossible not being there, listening etc