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If you can find a larger drill motor to steady your drilling speed you will have better results and be sure to use cutting oil to cool the bit as you drill but you should be able to make these holes with a hand drill. You have the original holes as pilots so it is fairly easy to keep them straight.
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First clean the threads and the holes throughly then install the bolts finger tight with a little oil under the bolt head seats. Torque to 30 ft lbs in the sequence of an "X" in the center four bolts followed by an "X" of the outer four bolts. Repeat at 54 ft lbs.
Nothing in my information shows these as torque to yield bolts or to apply any additional torque once the 54 ft lbs is reached. This is why you pulled the threads and broke the bolts, they were over torqued.
OK, the bolts may have been stretched but they are not torque to yield and you do not need to torque them more once you reach 54 ft lbs. Is this a torque wrench you can depend on or do you need to check its calibration?
OK, as long as you are comfortable that it is reading correctly, if you can borrow a beam type you can torque a couple of fasteners and see what the pointer on the beam reads when you loosen them after tightening with the clicker
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Check the published cylinder head procedure as distributed by GM below.
Click here for procedure
You may be buying TTY bolts from FelPro but FelPro was not the OEM supplier for this engine
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I understand that you had to buy TTY bolts for replacements and you should follow the makers recommendations but with pulling threads and breaking bolts I would look to see why that is happening and adjust the procedure to the circumstances.
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OK, as long as you clean the bolt holes and install the bolts as described you should not have any trouble. The helicoils are stronger than the original threads so they will hold as long as the bolts do.
If you can double check the accuracy of your torque wrench against a beam type (I think autozone has these in their loaner program) just to be sure and all should go well.
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You want to spray solvent in the hole and blow it clean with air, place a rag over the hole before you blow so the chips don't go flying then run soap and water into the hole, rinse and blow dry. One chip in the wrong place can ruin an otherwise perfect job.
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Just think of it as glitter!
The aluminum is better than steel as the valves will smash it but there may leave some residue that will keep them from having a full seal.
Use a magnet to get as much of the steel out as possible, you should never be using steel wool for any part of the operation, 3M scrub pads is the preferred abrasive. Flush as much as you can with solvent and then wash with water and re oil the cylinders. The correct way to do it is to completely disassemble, wash with soap and hot water and dry then lubricate as you assemble keeping everything spotless but we do what we can and hope for the best. Get as much out as you can and try to blow back out not into the engine. Masking tape and duct tape will help keep the chips out of the places you don't want it. Just keep it out of the crankcase so it does not end up in the bearings.
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Any steel will keep abrading whatever they run on so see if you can get it all out with a good magnet (neodymium = great) The cylinder should be less magnetic than the magnet so you should have success. You might want to tape the tip of the screwdriver so if it is pulled into the cylinder wall it does not scratch it.
You have as much chance of it ending up in the filter as a bearing so get what you can out and hope for the best. The #1 rule of engine building is to keep it clean.
Give yourself the best chance for success and spend some time now to save a headache later.
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Purple power is great stuff but is lye so you have to rinse it completely or it will continue to eat the aluminum.
I can't wait to get the full blown oldtimers so I don't know what I forgot!
I would think it is a fair bet that 150K would be correct but I have never bought a junkyard motor that was not 88 - 89K! seems they all went to the yard at that mileage. Or maybe they just lie to me but yours sounds about right.
Don't get carried away with the degreaser, soak a paper towel and wring it so it is not dripping and lay it on the piston that is at the top of the bore then wipe after twenty minutes or so, they don't have to be spotless on a head job just get the chunks off.
Once you get this running be sure to change the oil and filter after 500 miles or 10 hours running, whichever comes first.
The tangs just need a punch and then they break off so I don't know who is selling them for $144 but that a hefty profit!
Good you can use it to knock out Subaru axle roll pins next!
I have a problem with transposition and the spell check allows em as a word so I often do that.
Burned valves can be from a variety of causes, many times it is a valve sticking open and that can be due to poor maintenance but this is a "cheap" engine designed to sell for very little money and the engineers cut costs where ever they could in the machining and materials so it is not uncommon to find this type of wear.
I would just build it the best you can and get as many miles out of it that it will run.