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Tom, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
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Experience:  ASE Certified Master Technician
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TC: removing..relay..faults and then blows fuse #17, so once I park I

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<p>Is there a QUICK AND DIRTY way on my 1999 Range Rover 4.6 to disable ABS/TC, such as by safely removing a fuse or relay? (Something wrong with ABS pump or accumulator which causes faults and then blows fuse #17, so once I park I can't shift into drive unless I replace fuse, which blows next time I drive, and so on. I want to see if fuse #17 stops blowing without ABS/TC "on" before investing in a costly fix.)</p><p>I *KNOW* there is something wrong with ABS Pump/Accumulator, however, once faults occur and fuse is blown, car still handles fine and brakes fine. </p><p>I know that there is a 5amp ABS fuse and 30amp ABS fuse as well as an ABS relay in the engine compartment fusebox, and I know that the ABS relay in the controller unit under the passenger seat is soldered in place. I just want to see if I can run my car without the ABS pump drawing power and blowing the fuse on the circuit...</p>
All you need to do is remove the 30 amp fuse to disable the system have you tried this?
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

I had wondered this...


yesterday, found this:


which suggested I remove the 5amp fuse (or at least set up a kill switch for it). I tried, and nothing changed.


When I asked the mechanic who is familiar with the car but NOT familiar with Land Rovers in general - he did the repair when we needed to replace the damaged controller with a refurbished one - he suggested NOT to try running the car without one or more of the ABS-related fuses or relays, because "something could overheat or melt again...




What does the 5amp fuse cover, and what does the 30amp fuse cover?


I'm not a mechanic, so I wondered if the 5amp is for something piddly like the sensors and perhaps the 30amp covers something hungrier like the pump. And I wondered if maybe removing the 5amp fuse disables ABS/TC just fine when ABS is not on the fritz, but the 30amp would need removing when the ABS IS on the fritz.


I am hoping someone can confidently reassure me that I won't harm anything by trying to run my rig without the 30amp fuse in place. (And perhaps, what would happen if I ran it without the ABS relay? It is already running without the EAS relay - has been since I bought it...)

Removing the 30 amp fuse disables the and system and will not affect or short out any control units. It completely shuts the ABS system down and you will have conventional brakes which is fine . Removing the relay will also shut the ABS system down and will not harm anything .
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

can you tell me if there is a word missing?


"Removing the 30 amp fuse disables the and system"


I just want to be clear on what it disables...

Sorry it was spell check. Should of said disables the ABS system.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.



Removed 30amp fuse.


Still get fault message for ABS, then fault message for traction control. Then comes message for fuse 17 blown. Car still handles and brakes fine. But once fuse 17 (under passenger seat) blows, have to replace it in order to be able to shift out of park and try again. (And I think it has no brake lights until fuse replaced...)


Removed 30amp fuse AND ABS Relay.


Same thing happens.


So... If system is disabled, how am I getting faults and, if system disabled, why would it blow fuse 17 (which is for brakelight switch)?

Ok the fuse blowing is either a faulty brake light switch above the brake pedal these are common to short out and blow that fuse . Disconnect the brake light switch and see if the fuse blows . If not that brake light switch is bad and is the issue. Also if there is a trailer hitch that wiring can be shorting out causing this issue . This is what will cause that fuse to blow and needs to be checked next.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
<p>Shouldn't the abs and tc faults go away, now that abs is disabled? </p><p>Do i have to go to a certified repair shop to clear faults from CM? </p><p>I think that the fault messages appear as you drive, but fuse 17 blows as you brake. </p><p>I will have to check the switch in a few hours. </p><p>I loathe the idea of a short due to tow package, as it had some aftermarket work a long time ago related to towing, and we had the mechanic disable it all when this problem started occurring a while ago. At that time, we weren't getting faults, just blowing the fuse. The switch was replaced back then, and the blown fuses were a little more intermittent, rather than immediately on braking, until someone put the wrong fuse in and blasted the controller. </p><p>Once the mechanic got a refurbished controller and disabled the aftermarket stuff, no blown fuses for months. Then, all of a sudden, as above. </p><p>Perhaps shorting problem was "solved", but abs pump got bad enough and now has shorted our relatively new brakelight switch? </p><p>I would like to check the switch and get back to you... If it just needs a new switch, maybe I can get to where I have an otherwise fine RR with meaningless fault msgs that haven't been cleared and it stops blowing fuse 17.</p>
Ok if the fuse is blowing it's a dead short . I would bet that this entire issue is due to the trailer hitch and aftermarket wiring . This is where the problem lies. Also the fault codes will not clear until the wiring issue is fixed. These are the next steps . Hoped this helped . Positive feedback and bonuses greatly appreciated .
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

will be checking switch after work.


will definitely get back to you and am very appreciative!!!

No problem . Positive feedback and bonuses greatly appreciated .
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Unfortunately, can't really disconnect the brake light switch to test the fuse; the car won't shift out of park without the brake light switch connected, so I can't try to drive and then brake, which is when the fuse typically blows...


I have to order a new brake light switch and brake light bulbs to see if the current ones are the culprit(s).

I am not certain of everything fuse 17 controls, but I have seen at least one thread (on JustAnswer, re: a RR SE 98 and fuse #17) that mentions that it controls hvac and air suspension switches.


Any final thoughts?

Yes still think the issue is with all that aftermarket wiring and would bet you find the problem there.This is what needs to be focused on for this dead short.
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Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Thanks for your help!


Waiting for new brake light switch and bulbs to see whether the current ones are to blame for blowing fuse 17.


Otherwise, it will be a hunt for a short. As our mechanic disabled (cut out) all the aftermarket wiring months ago, and it behaved solidly for a good while, we are perplexed. I am just happy to have (seemingly) removed the ABS pump/accumulator from the equation by disabling it, and now we can focus on what keeps blowing the fuse. It would have been awful to have invested in new pump/accumulator only to find the fuse keeps blowing...

Anytime if you ever need anything else please let me know . Positive feedback and bonuses greatly appreciated .