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1999 Isuzu rodeo: 95k..Can happen while driving down the road…

1999 Isuzu rodeo, 95k miles...
1999 Isuzu rodeo, 95k miles. In last 2 weeks the car has cut off 5 times. Can happen while driving down the road or at idle. cranks right back up. no engine light is on. dealer had it for 9 hours, couldn't find anything wrong.
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Answered in 13 minutes by:
6/25/2010
Amedee
Amedee, Former ASE Master Tech
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 28,338
Experience: ASE certified tech advanced level specialist. Wisconsin certified emissions state inspector
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Hello!

I would check the fuel pressure regulator. It is located on the fuel rail. It is round, about a quarter size and has a vacuum line going to it. If the regulator is leaking gas than it can cause this problem. Pull off the vacuum line that goes to the regulator. Be absolutely sure there is no gas in the vacuum line. If there is, the diaphram has ruptured and there is gas entering the engine that is not accounted for and the regulator will need to be replaced!
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Amedee,

I will check to see if its ruptured or have a local mechanic do it if I cant find it. I will google it and look for pictures, etc. If this turns out to be the problem, will i be able to log back in here and pay you? I've never used this site before.

Chris
You can accept my answer now and we can still continue our conversation.

Even if thats not it, I can still help you diagnose this problem.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
So if I accept your answer now and it turns out not to be ruptured you will continue to help me figure out the problem? Will I have to pay you $30 each time you provide an answer? I've already spent over $200 so far with no luck.
YES!! I will help you until you are happy!

NO... you do not have to pay each time you request help. After you accept my answer now, you can just repost back to this thread for free and I will continue to assist you.
Amedee
Amedee, Former ASE Master Tech
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 28,338
Experience: ASE certified tech advanced level specialist. Wisconsin certified emissions state inspector
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Amedee and 87 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
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THanks for the accept!

LEt me know what you find!

I will be waiting for your reply!
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Amedee,

I checked the line, no fuel in it. I wasn't sure I was checking the right thing so I took it to a autozone location and asked. Guy there confirmed I checked the right thing and mentioned that I would have smelled gas if the diaphram was ruptured. I noticed the past two mornings, within 5 miles of starting up after getting over 50 mph the car 'shudders'(?), like its losing power, RPMs drop for an instant. Yesterday it cut off while driving after 20 minutes later and today it cut off at a stop sigh.

Chris

Hell Chris!

 

Sorry for the delay!

 

Are you saying the engine misfires or just stalls out when coming to a stop?

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I wouldn't call it a misfire, I just lacked the proper term to describe what is happing. Its like a loss of power, the RPM gauge will drop 1K rpm in a second and then got right back up. It will do that a couple times and then either I can drive several miles before it cuts off or it can happen within a few minutes. It will cut off both while driving down the highway at any speed, 20, 30, 55 mph or it will cut off while stopped at a redlight or stopsign. Yesterday it cut off while idling in a parking space. It always cranks right back up. If it cuts off while I'm going down the highway, I put the car in netural and crank it and put it back in drive and keep going. No engine or warning lights come on or remain on. I've had it cut off as I was slowing down to stop and after I speed up after stopping. I can't find a pattern. Seems totally random.

When was the last time the engine was tuned up? No, not just plugs, but a full tune up! The whole nine yards! Any part of the secondary ignition will do this including the ignition coil or coils! This sounds like a classic ignition misfire! They usually go bad under a load like under acceleration, but can be noticeable at any time. It is very important to have your engine equipped with good tune up parts or you may be causing damage to other components of you car like the catalytic converter which can be expensive!

 

Possible causes:

Ignition misfire causes by any bad tune up part and or ignition coil or coils.
Bad spark plugs, spark plug wires and cap and rotor (if equipped)
Wrong tune up parts spark plug, wires etc...

 

The quickest way to check the ignition components, is by looking closely for leaking secondary voltage. Visual look at all the tune up parts to see if you can see any sparks coming from any of the wires or coil (or coils) when the vehicle is running. If not, you can put your hand on the coil/coils and wires when the engine is running and see if you feel any small voltage leaking form the tune up parts. It will leak secondary ignition voltage from the tune up parts caused by high resistance from carbon tracking if they are bad. This is very common if the tune up parts are not changed regularly!

 

If any is found, the tune up parts are simply bad and will need to be replaced! If none is found than you can spray a mist of water on the tune up parts when the engine is running and see if that causes the engine to stumble or run rough at all. Again, if it does, the tune up parts are bad and will need to be replaced!

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Also, You could have a bad mass air flow sensor. Or the snorkel from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body could be ripped. Both are very common and can cause you vehicle to loose power along with many other drive ability issues. First look for cracks or rips or anywhere air can enter the engine that is not accounted for by the mass air flow sensor. Next comes the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This is a very important sensor input to the computer. It uses a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine. The MAF sensor then outputs an analog voltage signal to the PCM proportional to the intake air mass. The PCM calculates the required fuel injector pulse width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. If the sensor is bad than this air/fuel ratio will be off causing severe performance issues. In extreme cases, I have seen these two problems cause a no start condition. This input can also be used in determining transmission Electronic Pressure Control, shift and torque converter clutch scheduling. The check engine light may even pop on if the sensor is bad, the snorkel is ripped or a tube has fallen off. This will result in a lean condition.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Regarding your first post - I've called the dealer whose done all the work on the car since I bought it. They are pulling up all the service records. But at this time he doens's show that I've ever had the spark plugs changed out. I also asked him to check with the tech who looked at it last week to ask if he checked the condition of the spark plugs. (I would think after having it for 9 hours that would have been one of the basic things to check...) Once I get the records if it doesn't show as ever having been done, I will have that done and see if it resolves the problem and let you know.

Regarding your last post I will pass along your advice to a local mechanic that was recommend. I'm taking the car to him Friday so he can drive it over the weekend. After that I'll be to the point where I may have to borrow your gun and put it out of its misery... :(

Thanks for the quick reply.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Lol.. sounds good! NO problem!

 

Let me know if you have any further quesitons!

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Do you make house calls?...

Lol.. I wish....

 

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Pulled all the service records. It's never had a tune up and they stated its recommended at 90K so this may be why. I spoke to the mechanic at the dealer who looked at the car and asked if he'd pulled a spark plug out to look at it, he said no. Makes me wonder just what he did for 9 hours that day... As we talked and I described the situation he mentioned the mass air flow sensor just as you did earlier :) . He also said sometimes they perform the 'wiggle' test on the wiring harness? Anyway, I'm taking the service records and your advice to the local mechanic who seems more concerned with helping then billing and see what luck he has.

Appreciate your time on this. I've told several people already about the site and mentioned your name.

Chris
Chris,

Sorry for the delay!

I think we might be on to something between the things that I have recommended and the things that the mechanic has recommended. Between these things, I think it should be enough to get you headed in the right direction. I hope everything works out!

Let me know if you have any further questions!
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Amedee,

Just wanted to givre you an update. I took my car to the local mechanic last Friday, he has been unable to get the car to cut off. He checked the plugs, the mass air flow sensor and basically said the car was in great mechanial shape. Just can't get the problem to duplicate. He said based on his experience if he were to replace anything it would be the cam shaft and or crank shaft sensors. I'm going to pick it up today and take it home. If it happens again, I'll have him replace whichwever sensor is cheapest first and then see what happens.

Chris

Chris,

 

THanks for the update!

 

Let me know how it turns out!

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