How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask ASE Master Tech 35yrs Your Own Question
ASE Master Tech 35yrs
ASE Master Tech 35yrs, ASE Master Auto Tech
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 2095
Experience:  ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech, foriegn and domestic
Type Your Car Question Here...
ASE Master Tech 35yrs is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

I have 1996 Mark 8.

Customer Question

I have 1996 Mark 8.
Submitted: 8 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Joe replied 8 years ago.
What your Question?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

1996 Lincoln is pulling hard LEFT when braking.

It gets worse as brakes heat-up.


Already Tried:
Replaced Pads (semi-metallic), Replaced Rotors, Replaced RIGHT Pads (with ceramic(see below)), Replaced Right Rotor, Replaced RIGHT Caliper.

Note - When I replaced Right Rotor (1st time) I screwed up & put Right brake pad on backwards (!) (it was dark) (outer pad only), so I replaced right pads again, and right rotor again (!!) (pad was slightly damaged, so was rotor -- metal to metal for a little bit...).
Right pads are now ceramic, left are semi-metallic.
Pulling Hard left, gets worse as brakes heat-up.

While my LEFT pads need changed to ceramic, and my Left Rotor probably is OK, WHAT ELSE could it be, if doing the Left pads over to Ceramic doesn't fix it?
What is this proportioning valve?
How likely is a partially clogged right brake line, if this gets worse as brakes heat-up?
To me, I would bet it's the Ceramic Right & Semi-metallic Left (pads) that are causing this.
Still, I want to be sure -- I'm tired of trying to get the jack out from under the car, after letting it down, the air shocks "pin" the jack under the jack-point (!!!)

Expert:  ASE Master Tech 35yrs replied 8 years ago.

If you want your car to brake straight, Always replace with exact same type pads on both sides. As far as one side dragging, and wearing out, and heating up, that is another problem. When replacing front pads, you should crack open the bleeder before pushing pads back. If you have already pushed pads back without opening bleeder, you will now need to have your ABS system electronically bleed with a scanner to equalize the pressure in the ABS system. A porportioning valve separates the front from the back brakes to hold brake pressure in case one loses pressure. It has other functions but that is the most important one. If you had rear drum brakes it would hold off pressure from the front until the rear brakes were engaged to obtain even braking porportionally which is how it got it's name. I hope this information has helped you.

Also for your information, before raising the vehicle you must turn off the switch in the trunk that operates your air shocks. Failure to do this could result in damage to your level ride control and air shocks. After lowering the vehicle you can turn the switch back on. All this information is only an effort to solve your problem. Most people, even some very competent mechanics don't know the information that has taken me years to aquire.

Expert:  Joe replied 8 years ago.
Make sure you have the same pads on both sides.. this could cause a problem.. when replacing brakes a rule of thumb is what you do to 1 side do to the other.. let me know if theres anything else i can help with
Expert:  ASE Master Tech 35yrs replied 8 years ago.
Your pulling problem is due to the difference in pad material as you suspected. To answer your other question, the likeliness of brake lines getting clogged are slim to none, however brake hoses can deteriorate on the inside and it can cause a problem. And the valves inside the ABS modulator can hold pressure. That is why I recomend doing an electronic bleed with a scanner to equalize the pressure in the ABS system.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

OK, now BOTH sides are NEW Calipers, with Ceramic pads.


It STILL Pulls HARD LEFT -- the harder I step on the brake, the harder it turns.


The steering wheel twists left, and the car dives left, and when I release,

the wheel releases, and the car stops diving left, and 'offsets' a little to the right.


Any ideas? Brake line, from caliper to metal tubing?

ABS sensors, or something?

Customer: replied 8 years ago.

OK, now I've got ceramic pads and new calipers and rotors on BOTH sides.


SAME problem. Pulls Hard left.

The harder I step on the brake, the more it pulls -- in fact it 'dives' under hard braking,

and the steering wheels twists left.


When I release, steering wheel releases, and the car 'straightens up' some, quickly & with a sort of lurch to the right.

Expert:  Joe replied 8 years ago.

have your left calper checked.. if you've replaced pads and rotors the whole way around..and the problem is infact only in braking.. and pulling left.. i recommend the left caliper, sounds like the piston is staying out

Customer: replied 8 years ago.

LEFT caliper is NEW.


Replaced it yesterday, when putting the new ceramic pads on.

Expert:  ASE Master Tech 35yrs replied 8 years ago.
With everything as far as pads and rotors equal, my previous recomendation was to do an electronic bleed of the ABS system with a scanner to equalize pressure and like I said before, a bad brake hose can also cause a brake pull and if that is the case, both front brake hoses should be replaced. But before replacing parts, you should make sure that the pressure to both sides are equal. If your car is pulling left it indicates that the opposite side (right side) is the one at fault, possible air in line or restricted pressure from the ABS valves or brake hose. Your car will pull to the side that has the best braking.