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Lurch, Aftermarket & Factory Electronics
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 21010
Experience:  Ford, Chev Cert, Heavy Line Mech, Mobile Electronics.Sales, Installation & Repair for 30 years.
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1970 Cutlass: alternator..a high torque mini starter that..reg..cooler

Resolved Question:

I have a 1970 Cutlass with a 350 rocket .I have had a recurring hot start problem .After shutting down the car when it is hot ,I try to restart it and the only thing that happens it the engine hot light and the alternator light com on . I replaced the starter with a high torque mini starter that has the soleinod on the underside ,i removed the hot headers and replaced with reg manifolds . I put a cooler thermostat in . I still have the hot start problem . Any suggestions Help>>
Submitted: 9 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Lurch replied 9 years ago.
I would want to have a good look at the Battery Cables, especially the one that goes to the Starter Solenoid & also the Ignition Key Starter wire also going to the Solenoid.
When you get a "no crank" condition, you need to see if you can jump the solenoid at that time to confirm it is the Ignition Crank wire or the Battery Cable.
I am going by your description of changing from stock to Hi-Torque Starter & also assume you used different Solenoids each time
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to Lurch's Post: When I replaced the starter i also put on new battery cables . Would the starter wire cause the problem ? Are there any sensors that would cause the problem ?
Expert:  Lurch replied 9 years ago.

Thanks for the added info.........

The only way to check is when it does the "no crank"..
You need to check voltage at the Solenoid while the key is held in Crank position.

On a 1970, there isn't any snesors, other than the Park / Neutral Safety switch, but that will be confirmed when you check for voltage on the Starter wire

Customer: replied 9 years ago.
What if the voltage is good then what.If it is bad then what?
Expert:  Lurch replied 9 years ago.

If there is voltage from the Starter wire to the Solenoid & there is voltage at the Battery Cable on the Solenoid, then you would try to jumper across the Solenoid to see if it will crank.
If not, then the Solenoid is still the culprit & needs to be changed to a better quality Solenoid.
If no voltage present a the Starter wire, then you will need to back probe it until you find the source.
Usually the Park / Neutral switch or the ignition switch.

This needs to be done only when you get the No Crank, otherwise you will just be replacing parts

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Expert:  Lurch replied 9 years ago.
Did you find the problem?