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Jim, Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 320
Experience:  Mercedes,Ford Certified in AirConditioning, Electrical Systems, Braking Systems, Gasoline and Diesel
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2000 ford explorer: The driver door window..wiring diagram

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I have a 2000 ford explorer. The driver door window does not work. I checked the switch with an ohmmeter and It appears to be ok.I found what I thought was a good wiring diagram online. It looked to me like the only possibility is the motot. I replaced the motor, what a job. The motor did not fix the problem. When I press the auto/down side of the switch I hear a relay clicking under the dash or in the engine compartment. Can you give me some advice?
Is your Explorer 2 door or 4 door? dave
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to SuperDave Auto's Post: 4 door


You most likely have a bad "one touch" relay for the power window system. I haver included diagrams.

Good Luck. Please hit the ACCEPT button. Also, If I have helped, please leave positive feedback. This is how we are judged. Thank You. Dave



Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to SuperDave Auto's Post: Hi Dave, You do understand all the windows work except the drivers side driver door window?? If you do understand where is the one touch relay located???
Hello Paul, thanks for using just answer, ive seen this a good bit, it is usually one of two things and the first you have already eleminated in the motor, and if you can here the relay click then it is losing power to the motor, when you open the door you will see a black round pivot connector between the door hinges , water gets inside the connector and causes the wires to break down over time, pop the small cover off the top of the connector to expose the 10mm bolt holding the connector together, unplug the connector from the bottom. the flexible tube going into the truck needs to be pulled back from the connector, cut the plastic strap holding the fleible boot , then roll it down from the connector, the wires will then be exposed,gently tug on the pink and green and pink and yellow wires. you will find that one of the wires will be broken more than likely, pull the boot back more and repair the broken wire and then your window should work good as new. One thing to do prior to this is to make sure the new motor you put in is good first, hook a 12 volt jumper up to the connector to see if the motor works while the power is attatched tap the motor to verify that the brushes are not sticking in the new motor. if i can further assist you lemme know.
Jim, Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 320
Experience: Mercedes,Ford Certified in AirConditioning, Electrical Systems, Braking Systems, Gasoline and Diesel
Jim and 4 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Good Morning, It is almost 6:00 AM Here. I am an old retired person with a wicked case of the flu, not moving so well. As soon as it warms up a bit here I will go out, test the wires and get back to you. Thanks.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Hi Jim. I jumpered the new motor I put in and it works fine. I opened the connector and tugged on the pink and green and pink and yellow wires going into the truck. I could not discern any breaks. Remember I am unskilled. The connector did seem damp/wet when I opened it up. I put the connector back together to see if anything changed. Now none of the windows work. When I operate any of the switches I hear a relay clicking but that is all. Any ideas? Is there a way for me to meter the connector out?
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I was wrong. I took the connector apart again and put it back together. None of the windows work, but When I operate any of the switches I do not hear any relay clicking.
hello paul, if pretty sure the trouble is in that connector, if none of the windows are no nonfuctional, seee the master switch feeds the power to the other windows through the pink and yellow wire, the pink and green wire are soley for the drivers window, it sounds like the corrosion has broken the wire inside the insulation, try pulling the flexible boot loose from the cab side of the truck, and pull on the wire to see if it pulls from inside thetruck and lemme know what you found.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Hi Jim, Thanks for getting back to me. Here is an update on exactly what happened this morning. It is freezing cold in my driveway so my effectiveness is limited. This might not have been the optimum approach but I cut the boot open to expose the wiring farther back towar the truck. Wow, I found a thick red wire broken, insulation and wire. There must have been a lot of dampness in the boot for a lonf time as I could not get the wire clean enough to solder a jumper on. I tried to tin the wire and put a jumper on anyway. I was pretty sure I had a cold solder joint. This not withstanding I put the connector back together and reconnected the battery. When I hit the passenger side front switch the window started to move and then nothing. Cold solder joint? At this point I am numb and am quitting for today to try and warm up. This experience raises some questions. Is it reasonable to think about replacing the part of the connector that goes into the truck assuming there is at least on other bad wire? Can I buy the part of the connector that goes into the truck (Female) with pigtails at least 8-10 inches long at an auto parts store?
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Hi Jim, Thank you so much. I finally received a decent day to work without freezing. I repaired one cold solder joint and two bad wires. All windows are working great. Thanks again for all your help. Paul


Im so glad your problem is resolved, im sorry it took so long to get back to you, If you need anything else just lemme know, also the cost of replacing the connector is much to expensive, as it comes with a complete wiring harness, and no pigtail is available.

Replacement has needed will be your best option as now you know were to look.