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Hi Jim, Super mechanic here. I have this diagnostic chart if it helps. You might have to make it bigger, Do you know if the cam sensor is working and are there any trouble codes?
See Figures 1 through 10
To avoid damage to the ECM/PCM or other ignition system components, do not use electrical test equipment such as a battery or AC-powered voltmeter, ohmmeter, etc., or any type of tester other than specified.
Check for trouble codes, as described in Driveability & Emissions Controls . If any are found, refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedure in Driveability & Emission Controls.
When performing electrical tests on the system, use a high impedance multimeter or quality digital voltmeter (DVM). Use of a 4 volt test light is not recommended.
To prevent electrostatic discharge damage when working with the ECM, do not touch the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
When handling a PROM, CAL-PAK or MEM-CAL, do not touch the component leads. Also, do not remove the integrated circuit from the carrier.
Never pierce a high tension lead or boot for any TESTING purpose; otherwise, future problems are guaranteed.
Do not allow extension cords for power tools or droplights to lie on, near or across any vehicle electrical wiring.
Leave new components and modules in the shipping package until ready to install them.
Fig. 1: Ignition system circuits - 3.8L (VIN C) engine
Fig. 2: Ignition system diagnosis (1 of 2) - 3.8L (VIN C) engine
Fig. 3: Ignition system diagnosis (2 of 2) - 3.8L (VIN C) engine
Fig. 4: Ignition system circuits - 1992-93 3.8L (VIN L and 1) engines
Fig. 5: Ignition system diagnosis (1 of 2) - 1992 vehicle with Type I ignition system
Fig. 6: Ignition system diagnosis (2 of 2) - 1992 vehicle with Type I ignition system
Fig. 7: Ignition system diagnosis (1 of 2) - 1992-93 vehicles with Type II ignition system
Fig. 8: Ignition system diagnosis (2 of 2) - 1992-93 vehicles with Type II ignition system
Let's see..93, I think that is the "Pass key 2 " security. A diode in the key? They will normally turn off the fuel pump and injectors first. It seems that whatever system that you bypass, it will kill another.
With all that said, what I used to do was to first, check that there is power at the module. (pink I think) and then you can see if the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are signaling the module to spark. I am not sure of the wire color at the module but here is a diagram. You want to check the signal wire going to the module with red lead or low voltage test light.
Oh yes Jim, I have, but I would think if it were a timing chain you would know by the way it cranks. Now I will say though, I have seen them where the little magnet comes off from the cam gear and then it won't sed a signal. (they warned us about that at the GM school), The truck is to try and isolate which sensor is not telling the module to or when to spark.
Also, on the crank sensor, were you able to get an even gap (.050) on each side of the trigger blades?