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1990 jeep comanche: cranks..plugs,cap,rotor,coil and wires.also

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1990 jeep comanche 2whl dr...
1990 jeep comanche 2whl dr auto matic 4.0 ltr fuel injection p/s no a/c. cranks but won't start.changed plugs,cap,rotor,coil and wires.also changed oil & filter.truck has had lots of repairs over the yrs.first time it's acted this way.Got spark(now)fuel,and air. what's up?
Submitted: 10 years ago.Category: Car
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Answered in 37 minutes by:
9/8/2007
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
Eric
Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 32,799
Experience: Automotive Repair Shop Manager, Technician/JA Mentor
Verified

Hi,

More than likely the problem is a bad crankshaft positon sensor, or if equipped with a slotted crank sensor, a torn or missing grommet causing the sensor to be out of position. Below is on checking and replacing the sensor.

 

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some 1989-1990 vehicles equipped with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission may experience an engine no-start, hard restart, or an engine die-out. This condition may be caused by low signal strength from the crank position sensor due to a larger than desired distance to the flywheel sensing ring.

DIAGNOSIS:

Jeep Cherokee Limited Crank, No Start

Check to see if the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor:

  1. If the vehicle is equipped with a slotted crank position sensor (see Figure 1), check to see if the CPS grommet on the top of the transmission bell housing has been updated (see Figure 2). If the CPS grommet has not been updated, replace the CPS grommet per the Repair Procedure outlined below.

If the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor and new CPS grommet, do not install a new sensor, but reinstall the slotted sensor that was on the vehicle. If the vehicle does not have a slotted crank position sensor already installed, then proceed with the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
1 Crank Position Sensor (slotted)P/N 83100067
1 Crank Position Sensor GrommetP/N 83100068

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position.
  2. Disconnect the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) from the engine harness.
  3. Raise the vehicle using a lift.
  4. Remove the old CPS and grommet.
  5. Install the new CPS grommet.

NOTE: THE NEW CPS GROMMET MUST BE REPLACED SO THAT THE MAXIMUM SIGNAL OUTPUT CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE NEW CRANK POSITION SENSOR.

  1. Install the new Crank Position Sensor and loosely attach the retaining bolts.
  2. Firmly press down on the slotted hole side of the CPS until it bottoms on the machined lip of the bellhousing. While holding the CPS down against the bellhousing, tighten the bolt on the slotted side of the CPS to 16 ft.lbs.
  3. Tighten the remaining attaching bolt to 16 ft.lbs.

NOTE: MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR IS COMPLETELY BOTTOMED ON THE MACHINED LIP OF THE BELLHOUSING AND IS AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE FLYWHEEL SENSING RING WITHOUT CONTACTING IT.

  1. Secure the lead of the CPS to the retaining clip on the bellhousing to prevent its contact with the exhaust manifold.
  2. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Connect the CPS to the engine harness.

If this answer has helped please hit the ACCEPT BUTTON or ask for more help. Positive feedback si always appreciated

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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
OK eric,I relpaced crank position sensor.They didn't have slotted & the one taken out wasn't slotted either.Back to square one.
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
ok,

when you stated earlier that it had fuel, did you check with fuel pressure gauge?
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
No only popped schrader valve at end of fuel rail to see if fuel was present.Relay clicked on and could hear pump pressurizing system
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
Ok,

There are two things to test, fuel related. You will need a fuel pressure gauge and a noid light.

1- test fuel pressure while cranking engine. If pressure is low, replace pump. With key in on position observe pressure, if it drops, that is indication of fuel pressure regulator problem.

2 - if pressure and leakdown test are ok, check for injector pulse. With a noid light(available a parts stores for about $10) attached to injector connector, crank engine and observe noid light for blinking light. If no light, the injector is not receiving a signal for the computer. At that point, you will need to test comuter pins for voltage.

Get back to me with the results, and ww will go from there.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
I'll have to get back to you tomorrow on that,will you be there?
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
i will be online all day tommorrow.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
ALRIGHT THEN I'll talk at you then.
Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Good Morning Eric,
Ready to go at it?I don't have acess to noid light or psi gage,another way to check maybe?
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
Good morning,

If you have a some starting fluid, spray in the throttle body and see if it starts for a second or two. If it does, then we know it is definitely fuel related
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
Already tried that with no sucess
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
Hi,

If it doesnt fire up with starting fluid thru the throttle body then we are back to ign. system.

Do you have a voltmeter? If so, check for voltage to the coil when cranking and what that voltage is.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
I have a spark plug type looking tool that checks for spark.that's coming from both coil and #1 plug wire
Auto Mechanic: Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager replied 10 years ago
Ok,

Below is instructions on pulling up any DTCs(diagnostic trouble codes) store in the computer. If there are, might be indication of where problem lies, such as a faulty computer.

Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (loong pause)
It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes are not repeated.)
33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
John McGuire wrote: "The older Vipers will blink out diag codes with four off/on key turns. They removed the capability starting in... I think 2000, at any rate I know my 2001 requires a computer to check the codes."
On some models (such as a 1995 Neon), when the check engine light goes on, you may be able to get the codes simply by putting in the key and moving it to the RUN position; the light will blink out the codes by itself.
Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete. It stemps from a list posted on the Mopar Mailing List, but many modifications have been made.
* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light on some models.
IMPORTANT. Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting in the late 1990s. See the earlier section.

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. [Webmaster note: MAP sensors seem to die regularly.]

OR

51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)
55 End of codes


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

88 Start of test (not usually given, don't expect it


Let me know what the results are.
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