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No spark, 55psi fuel, I was in contact with you a few months…

No spark, 55psi fuel...

No spark, 55psi fuel, I was in contact with you a few months ago and just now getting back to it.

Mechanic's Assistant: Has the vehicle turned into a gas hog? And how does it start -- same as usual?

Was running great and suddenly would not hit one morning last August. Has just 52K miles. 2006 dts, 4.6 northstar

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your DTS yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yes it’s in my driveway. Checked fuel pressure. Bought a Innova 3140gand shows no codes. Shows accelerator pedal position, cranking rpms With a volt meter I measure 12volts on coil pack with key on. I get no spark. It has never hit once. I had the alternator replaced a few months earlier.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Because of threads I saw online I replaced camshaft position sensor and no change.

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Answered in 8 minutes by:
3/3/2018
Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton, Cadillac Technician
Category: Cadillac
Satisfied Customers: 5,628
Experience: ASE Master Technician, L1, Master GM Technician. Over 20 years of bumper to bumper GM experience.
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How have you verified the lack of spark?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I pulled out on coil pack and stuck a short metal rod in it held it close to head in the dark and cranked engine

OK! I know that's hard to check, so I thought I'd ask. :-)

Did you try this on both coil packs?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I believe this has a coil pack on each plug and I only tried one

Northstar has a coil pack for each bank of cylinders, you should have one long coil pack that bolts to the valve cover on each side, and there are four coils built into each one.

If a coil pack goes bad, 4 cylinders will quit working, and that's enough to keep the engine from starting, that's why I wanted to know if you checked both banks.

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Ah yes, you have triggered my memory about this. You're right, they are separate. The tricky thing about this is that they are not serviced separately, to get one coil, you have to buy the whole assembly. 2005 and prior were a lot different in design.

OK, having covered that, I would check more than one coil to see if there is spark anywhere. Can you turn the key on and give me some of the live data that you see on the scan tool, like coolant temp and whatnot? And what is the cranking RPM?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Rpm 144,CAT Te 11 32 (*F)
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It has never hit a lick is why I only checked one coil pack

With key on, is there power at that coil connector? One wire should have power with the key on.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Since I’m seeing rpm’s does that mean the crankshaft position sensor is working ?

Yes, that was why I wanted that info. Since the crank sensors are working, I am now curious whether the coils have any power going to them.

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OK, great. Pin A of each coil should have power with key ON. It's either pink or pink/black, depending on which coil you're testing.

Pin D should be ground at each coil, I would test this ground using a voltage drop method. If you're not familiar with that, I can explain.

I think you must have a problem with the ground side. On the surface, it would seem that the computer is not firing the coils, but frankly, I've never seen that happen as long as there is crank trigger and injector pulse. I think the ground is giving you trouble. There is an isolated ground that goes only to the coils, and it attaches at the rear of the back cylinder head. So, to clarify, it's the cylinder head that is near the firewall, and this ground is down close to the transmission bell housing. Difficult to put your hands on, but with a flashlight you can see it easily enough. It's a single small black wire with a ring terminal on it, attached to a stud at the rear of the cylinder head. Can you see it down there and verify that it's attached and tight, and not broken?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’m not finding the ground. Would I look from the top or from under the car?

From the top side, under the hood. Put your head in the vicinity of the master cylinder, and look down in that space. It's tucked away in a pretty tight spot, but it's just about directly beneath the master cylinder, attached to the rear of the rear cylinder head. It's #3 in the image I'm attaching here.

Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton, Cadillac Technician
Category: Cadillac
Satisfied Customers: 5,628
Experience: ASE Master Technician, L1, Master GM Technician. Over 20 years of bumper to bumper GM experience.
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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Provide Diagrams, Manuals, or Instructions. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.

Good afternoon. What diagrams or procedures are you looking for?

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Oh, good grief.

As you can imagine, this is a no fun job. I would typically take the master cylinder loose, leave the brake lines attached, and just swing the master cylinder out of the way to gain some room. It is still not going to be fun, but that will at least make it possible to get into that area. If you can find a way to get splicing tools in there, just splice on a new pigtail for the coolant temp sensor (also damaged there) and it will give you 12" of new wire, so you'll have some working room with the harness at that point. Same for the new ground cable, just splice in 12" of wire so you're not trying to attach the ground with little or no slack on it. The extra wire length can be tied up afterwards and secured so it doesn't get damaged.

Any idea how this got damaged like that? That's a very well protected area, you have to work to damage this wiring, unless you have the transmission out or something.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I can feel a sharp edge on one of the castings right there that it was up against. I think my car needs laparoscopic surgery.

Wouldn't that be something, if we could get in there and fix that without putting our hands in that space?

In the worst of cases, the water crossover has to come out. This is also a no fun job, and even less fun if you're doing it just to make a ten minute wire repair. Moving the master cylinder creates a fair amount of elbow room, though, and if you can pull that harness up out of that space (it's broken anyway) you can probably make repairs fairly easily once the master is out of the way. You'll need a new coolant temp sensor pigtail, and to my recollection, nothing else runs in that section of harness except the CTS and that ground connection.

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