Cadillac Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello I will help you with your question,
Is the security light on at the instrument cluster?
Do you have a voltmeter to check if the signal from the key is getting to the starter?
Is the factory security the only alarm system on the car?
OK, if you see the security light on after you try to start the car but don't turn the key off then it is likely that the small wires in the ignition switch have broken and you will need to bypass the resistor in the key pellet by the head of the key.
If it is not then you will need a voltmeter to test the circuit from the key to the starter and see if the starter is getting signal. If it is then the starter might have failed. On this engine you have to remove the intake to get to the starter I believe, I will double check.
Let me know what I ca do to help you with this
I am sorry but I am unable to speak on the phone, if you want to have him login here at JA and reply to this thread I will be happy to guide him through the diagnosis or just show him this thread and see if he understands what I am asking about.
I am here most of the evening so let me know how I can help
Great, I will watch for your or your son's post.
Yes I am, how can I help?
If you don't see the security light then it is more likely that the starter or the neutral switch is the problem.
Can you get a voltmeter?
OK, that means the computer is happy with the key.
Are you up for some testing, I don't know what a low voltage tester is, you would need a paperclip and a voltmeter to check this out.
Please wait for me to reply so I can work with you
Let me know if you can see my reply above
Taht would be a 12 volt testlight and it is better than nothing
Click here for location
Click here for pinout
Find the starter enable relay, put the transmission in park with the key in the run position and connect the C1 pin of the relay connector to the A2 pin with a paperclip. Let me know if the starter turns the engine
The relay you need is under the driver's door sill plate. It is taped to the harness about 2 inches back from the channel that carries the wires past the door. Pull it up and get to the connector so you can jumper from the C1 to the A2 pin of the relay socket and that should spin the starter.
let me know if it does
Ok, I am here for a couple of more hours tonight and back again tomorrow.
The relay is inside below the door opening. Remove the plate on the sill of the door and you will see the wire harness. Up towards the front of the door opening the relay is taped to the wire harness.
Once you jumper the relay connector you will need to turn the key to the start position to send 12 volts to the jumper and on to the starter.
Good, you have to turn the key to the start position once you have the pins jumpered. You are connecting the purple wire in the A2 to the yellow wire in the C1. There is another wire in the C2 which should show 12 volts as well.
Check that your testlight works on the battery terminals and if it does check at the paperclip with the key in the start position to be sure you have 12 volts to the clip.
let me know
There is a fuse to the yellow wire for the C2 pin but the yellow wire in the C1 pin comes directly through the ignition switch when it is in the start position from the 50 amp MAXI fuse#1 fuse in the underhood fuse block.
Be sure you have the key in the start position when you are checking either yellow wire
You did check your testlight to be sure it works?
Let me know what you find
OK then you have a problem between the switch and the relay, you are going to have to get to the large connector to the switch. Are you able to do that? It is at the base of the steering column.
The ignition switch is in the steering column correct? Taht switch needs to be checked to be sure you have 12 volts into the switch on the red wire and out on the yellow wire with the key in the start position.
There are screws on the bottom of the column but you need the large connector on the bottom of the column C202. You want the yellow wire in pin socket B6
Click here for diagram
The red wire into the switch from Maxi Fuse #1 is in pin D5 of that large connector. !2 volts in on the red and back out on the yellow wire in pin B6 when the key is in the start position, If you have 12 in but nothing out the switch needs to be replaced.
Then the ignition switch has failed. If the switch does not conduct the 12 volts to the yellow wire when in the start position then it is burnt.
One last test, connect everything up and put your light on the red wire (use a straight pin along the wire into the connector to make contact) and check that you still show 12 volts while you turn the key to the start position. If you do replace the ignition switch.
let me know how I can help
I will see what I can find, there are screws on the bottom of the column that you remove then the shrouds come off.
And click here
I will see if I can find a video of this
I am glad to help. I didn't find a video so you remove the shroud of the column and remove the dimmer switch then you can remove the ignition switch. I see new switches for about $160, shop around that is an AC Delco switch.