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My 1994 Cadillac fleetwood brougham Chevy 350 engine knocks

significantly when it is first...
My 1994 Cadillac fleetwood brougham Chevy 350 engine knocks significantly when it is first started and begins to roll, but after a few minutes the knocking disappears. Also its power is less than normal. Mechanic found cyl. 8 spark plug significantly carbon fouled, and replaced it, but compression was normal. His analyses indicated Knock sensor has a problem, which retards the timing causing the knocking, and he wants to replace the knock sensors. Is that the right thing to do, or should he be looking for something else which causes the knock sensor to knock, such as stop the carbon fouling. Recently on a long trip I had to use ethanol gasoline, after which the Check Engine light lit up on my dashboard. So I need the correct action to resolve the knocking and carbonization. Also, attached a link that explains the check engine codes, but I need to understand how to use it. Please review it and explain how it is used. Here is the link: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html#diag
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Answered in 3 hours by:
12/10/2009
Mad-Mike
Mad-Mike, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Cadillac
Satisfied Customers: 258
Experience: 10 yrs GM dealership experience servicing all GM models. 20 years total experience as a Technician o
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Hello, my name is ***** ***** welcomt to JA.

You have some very good questions here, and I will assist you to the best of my knowledge, but first I need a little information so that I can be sure that I understand the noise you are hearing.

#1 This knocking- Do you hear it as soon as the engine starts cold as if there is an internal problem, or is this only after you begin to accelerate (spark knock, pinging)

#2 did this start suddenly, or did it develop over time?

#3 Is the PCM storing any trouble codes aside from your trip when the light came on?

Also, how many miles are on the Cadillac?

This LT1 is an excellent powerplant, and I own one of my own that is in a Caprice Wagon. There are a LOT of things we can do to get your power back, and several more things that will boost performance to higher levels than when it was new, but first we need to address this problem accurately.

Mike

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Mike, thanks for your follow up questions, and here is my reply to your questions to the best of my knowledge.
My car has 168,000 miles. The engine has never given me trouble, and nor has it ever had any knocking. However, it was consuming a lot of oil, about 1 qt/500 miles, although there was a minor leak from the front side of the engine on the garage floor. The leak was a few drops a day and it would not account for this large consumption of 1qt/500 miles. So I was advised to add Restore additive to the oil. Late November when on a long trip of 1400 miles I added a can of Restore to the oil, after 600 miles on the road, to minimize oil consumption. This didn't help reduce oil consumption. Further up the road I filled up with gas, and the only gas available was gas with 10% ethanol. I filled it up against my will. About 200 miles up the road, I saw the Check Engine light lite up, but it lit up only on and off. Drove back home another 1400 and somewhere on the road the Check Engine light became solid. Two days after I arrived home, I began to notice a reduction in power. Also, immediately after I start the car in the morning it would not knock, but when I would accelerate the knock would begin. After driving about 5 minutes the knock would disappear. But a few days later, the knock became constant and began to lose a lot of power. Also when standing still at the light, the car would shake like a leaf. Took the car to a good mechanic, he identified cyl no. 8 spark plug as seriously fouled with carbon. He checked cyl next to no. 8 and spark plug had carbon build up but was normal. He checked the compression on both cylinders, and told me compression was normal at 125 psi, which he said was normal. He replaced the bad spark plug and cleaned the injectors with BG injectors cleaning fluid, and the knocking was reduced, but not eliminated, and the Check Engine light never went away. He didn't think the light would go away, but said if the knocking comes back, he would have to change the Knock Sensors. Yesterday, I drove the car and found the knocking on acceleration after start up has come back. But it went away after a few minutes of driving, but the car did not shake when standing at the light. I am afraid the knocking and the shaking will come back as bad as it did before. So what do you think should be done now, would replacing the Knock Sensors, eliminate the problem or would it just cover up a serious problem that should be focus on. I want to be sure I don't damage the engine with cylinder(s) knocking, and I want to make sure we do the right thing to repair the problem and not just cover it up. What do you advise.
The mechanics analyses of the PCM he said got a code for the Knock sensors, may have meant that they are bad. But I am not sure which comes first the carbon building on the spark plug is causing the knock or the Knock Sensors themselves causing the knock and the Timing retardation. you response please.'

Ok, thanks for the info, that helps a lot.

I want to mention a few things before I leave for a few hours. When I get back, I will give you more information.

I am going to supply you with a part number for a knock module when I return. it is a cheap item that you can install yourself. I'll explain more thoroughly about why...

10% Ethanol is pretty much the standard now. I think stations don't even have to label it anymore, it's just in there...So the Light is a result of something else....More on fuel leater as well.

Pick up a bottle of Chevron/Techron fuel additive. And use it in every fill-up for a while. It costs a little more than the others, but it works, and it is the same formula that Chevron makes for GM (GM fuel system and injector cleaner). It is going to take a long time to get all that hard carbon out of there.

While you are using the Techron at every fillup, you will want to do your next few oil changes at 1500 miles. The fuel cleaner dilutes the oil.. We actually WANT to dilute the oil a little bit right now, because that carbon is keeping the rings from doing their job. If you want to do an engine flush at your next oil change, I suppose it would be ok, but I recommend 2 oil changes to get all the cleaner out afterwards.

I gotta run, but that's a bit of info to chew on for now. I'll give you better facts when I get back..

I'm posting this as an answer, only to mark a starting point here. Don't worry about accepting until we get some stuff sorted out.

Mike

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Thanks, ***** ***** I catch you before you run. About a week ago, I replaced my 10wt-30wt Pennzoil with 20wt-50wt, with a quart of Lucas oil treatment, after I returned from my long trip. Could this change in oil wt. be contributing to the knocking? If I dont hear from you now, I will wait for your complete response upon your return.
thank you

I Use Lucas oil stabilizer myself, and the Lucas along with the thicker oil will not contribute to your problem.

The knocking is most likely caused by the carbon buildup itself. The carbon takes up space in the combustion chamber which increases compression and also can retain a hot spot into the next ignition cycle...this is a viscious cycle of 1 problem causing multiple other problems over time.

Lets start by explaining the knock module I recommended. The Factory B-body (Fleetwood,Caprice. Roadmaster, etc..) knock module is nor nearly refied enough for our cars. They seem "adequate", but they didn't spend enough time with them to be sure that it doesn't react to "false knocks". So as your B-Body get's older, and it naturally begins to make more engine noises or rattles (things like loose brackets, tapping from lifters, etc). So as your LT1 gets older, the PCM responds to more of these "false knocks" and then it retards the timing (this causes the drop in performance you are hearing)...Also...Compounding the problem is the fact that retarding the timing results in more incomplete combustion which creates more carbon, which....back to the start...

So...The new Knock module. GM developed the high performance LT4 for certain corvettes. The LT4 had more "normal" internal rattles, and therefore a significant amount of time was spent refining the software for the knock module. I changed this part on my car, and I was not having the problems you mentioned....but it made a huge difference in performance and fuel economy. The GM part number is #16214681 and they cost about $26. You could find one online, or expect to pay a little more from your local dealer. To install it, locate your PCM on the inner fender under the hood. There is a cover in the middle of the PCM that is about 2"x3" or so. Remove that cover, (make surew key is off) depress the tabs and remove the old module, and then put the new one in it's place. Sometimes the screws get corroded and break. If that is the case, be use to use a sealer or something to keep mointure out of there.

Now be excited, but not too confident. You just boosted your HP from 260 to around 275, and only by making better use of the fuel you are already using...Bonus! Also, this could actually be the root cause of your whole problem, but that's where I don't want you to be too confident. There is no gaurantee that we can totally resolve your oil issue...But there's some hope.

The oil issue theory. Theory is all anyone can give you at this point unless the engine is disassembled and inspected. But this is what the cycle kind of looks like, and herein you will see other items that you need to check on your car-.

Start with the original knock sensor, higher miles, and maybe an exhaust rattle or something that is tripping the knock module...The PCM then starts ALWAYS retarding the timing. This robs HP, ruins fuel economy, creates large amounts of carbon due to improper combustion, and also starts to dilute the oil with the unburned fuel....That is key... The oil quickly get's diluted by unburned fuel, so the thinner oil is able to get by the rings and valve seals,and burn...and make more carbon, etc... Also, carbon can get in the rings and keep them from working properly (which explains why I suggest you "overuse" the Chevron/Techron fuel additive for a while).

Now, if you have a knock sensor that is bad, that will compound this even more, but I believe that you will get that code if there is excessive spark knock as well. Either way, the knock module is cheap and you WILL benefit from it.

Next things we need to be sure of are the spark plugs, plug wires, and the distributor cap and rotor. The cap and rotor on this engine are the only thing I dislike about them. Not only are they labor intensive because they are behind the water pump, but they are prone to failure. And because of where the distributor is, it puts the plug wires where they aren't good either. They get soaked with oil, and rub on things. But all of these maintenance items are critical. The same viscious cycle I described can also be caused by poor spark, or misfires that sometimes can't even be felt. But every misfire on every cylinder puts another shot of fuel down part the rings. So not only does it thin the oil, but it washed the oil off of the rings which can wear the piston skirts. So essentially, you need to be sure this thing is in top running order, or it will continue to wear until it isn't any good. Right now, though, there is still hope.

So, get that knock module in there, get all your maintenance items in order (fuel filter too), and then once it is running the way it should (at least not missing...we still have the carbon in there) then you can work on the cleaning process. Since carbon gets super hard after it's been in there a while, it will take a while...You may not get it ALL, but if you get a good portion of it, then you can run higher octane fuel to control the pings. But with the better knock module, you may not notice a ping...you would have to see it on a scan tool.

But anyhow, the point is, the fuel additives won't help much until the root cause is solved. Once the root cause is solved, check the oil for dilution to make sure it doesn't need a change already. You can check it by looking at it on the dipstick and smelling/feeling it. The oil should create a film under your thumb that is thick enough to prevent friction. As you slide you thumb down the dipstick, you shouldn't be able to feel that "slip/stick" feeling of your skin trying to grip the metal.

As you continue the carbon cleaning, I think running regular unleaded with the cleaner is best. Regular unleaded is a little more prone to the pinging, but the additive should raise the octane a little bit. Mainly though, low octane burns hotter, and may assist the cleaner to work better. After you finish with a few tanks with the cleaner, then you can decide if you want to use midgrade or higher from then on. You want to use the lowest octane you can use without the pinging. If you can't hear the pinging at all, the sound and acceleration of the car will tell you. If everything is correct, the new knock module will make the car accelerate better than it did before, and I noticed on mine that it SOUNDED a lot better at high RPM... If it's pinging, it will be sluggish again and will lose that smooth sound in the higher rpm range. But the real truth is with this test- If you finish running a tank of 87 octane and switch to 94 octane, you should not notice a difference at all, in fact, theoretically the car will be slower since it isn't designed for premium fuel (premium fuel needs more compression and more ignition timing).

So if you gas up with Premium and the car runs better and has more power, then it means that the PCM was picking up knocks and backing the timing off when the lower grade fuel was in there.... So the next tankfull, you could try midgrade and see if it still runs good. Just remember, you want the lowest octane that you can use without causing the ping.

Ok, I've given quite an answer, and I hope I've covered everything. I like telling this stuff because I love to tinker with my own LT1, so if you need clarification, dont hesitate to ask.

Thanks,

Mike

P.S. I didn't ignore that link to the code chart, I ust don't think it's going to do much good right now. If you have the code that is turning on the engine light though, it might be helpful to double check my info, or to be sure there isn't something else going on.

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Mike, I read your response as I would have read my Organic Chemistry text, slowly and thoughtfully. Here is where I am. Just FYI, about 5 months ago, I had all ignition parts replaced, distributor, ignition module, spark plugs and wires, rotor , everything ignition related replaced. I did that because of mileage. So there should not be a concern about these parts, as all they have now is about 10K miles or less. So now here is my path forward based on your response. Before I go into my path forward, should I just leave the heavy wt oil in the car for another 3000 miles or should I replace now, and with which oil wt. Should I be using Lucas oil treatment with the oil change. Here is my path forward, and please comment on everything I say as needed. I will seek to get the LT4 module, which I found in town for $120, or online from $75 to $120. No one had it for $27, but if you know where I can get it for $27, please send me the link or their phone no. Along with the module I will be adding Techron with every fill-up of regular gas for the foreseeable future to remove the carbon from the spark plugs.
As far as the quality of the oil and its dilution. Before I went to the heavy wt. oil, every time I would check the dipstick on the light wt oil, even after adding a quart, it would be very hard to see the oil on the dipstick, and the dipstick looked clean like it had been dipped in a solvent, but it never occurred to me that the fuel might have been leaking into the oil pan diluting the oil. Now with the heavy wt oil, I can see the oil stuck to the dipstick like it should be, which is normal. I do believe the oil is doing the job of keeping the engine lubricated. So I take it that the current oil, which is about 10 days old, does not need to be changed yet, please confirm and which oil and which treatment if needed.
So all I need to do now, is get the module, please tell me where I can get it for a reasonable price, and add the Techron to the unleaded gas tank, and drive on. What do you think.

Ok, Sorry about the price, I had to look at my own records to see that it's been over 5 years since I got my module. I did find it for $65 here-

http://www.madtuner.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=34&category_id=2&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26

As for the oil, It's good for now, but keep a close eye on it. What you were seeing before may very well have been dilution. Once you get the knock module installed, and possibly a new set of spark plugs (cleaning isn't always good enough if they are fouling), the oil should be fine for a few tanks full of fuel with the Techron. Make sure to mix it full strength, but much more than whats recommended won't give additional results.

I like the Lucas and run 1 Qt Lucas and the cheapest oil I can find. I think with the Lucas, and once this is running better, you can run 10w40+Lucas. 20w50 is fine for now since you still have this problem, but if it gets better after all this, run the 10w40. All the good stuff is in the Lucas, so expensive oil won't do you much good unless it has a better cleaning package in it or something.

You know, at that mileage, though.... I wouldn't think it would be too bad of an idea to try some type of engine flush. I've heard of stuff like Sea Foam and others, but most of them are just a high detergent Diesel or fuel oil. Just follow the directions on the product you use...but beware, the cleaning effects will remain in the engine, so the new oil will get really dirty after you change it. Most people end up doing oil changes once a week with the flush until it's all clean.

So, you have it correct, I may be over-elaborating on a lot of it, but it's better than not telling you what you need.

In the end though, I am really prescribing a bunch of experimental procedures. They will all have benefit, I know that...But the sum of these benefits is at this point unknown.

...Organic Chemistry...my brain hurts just reading that.

Mike

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Hi Mike,
The comment about Organic Chemistry was a positive comment, as other Experts would not even come close to the details that you present. I like more details than less, I can take it and more, and I thank you for that. BTW: While I am thinking about it, with 168K miles, should I also be changing the Timing chain and sprockets. Last Mechanic who looked at my thinks it should have been changed already.
Here is where I am now. I learned how to run diagnostics on my car, via the link that I had sent you on my first Question Request, and is shown here: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html#diag .
I ran the diagnostics last night and I got code 43, which states as follows: 00-43 - One or both knock sensors were either open or grounded. So with this code, should I also be changing the two Knock Sensors along with the Knock Module.
So to get this car back to normal, it will be a long process as I describe below. Here is what I see I need to do and please amend it as needed.
1) Change the LT1 to LT4, to get rid of the Check Engine Light, pls confirm. Is the procedure as simple as you described above, or is there a link you could send me for that procedure.
2) Change or leave alone the Knock Sensors - to get rid of Check Engine Light. Pls confirm
3) Leave the hvy wt. oil in the car for now, but later run through an oil flush, without using Lucas in the flush, every week until the last oil change is clear of gunk. Replace with new oil 10w-40, with lucas.
4) Continue to use a bottle of Techron with each 12 gallon of gasoline, per direction.
5) Replace the spark plugs when the knocking has subsided.
I will accept your response after I receive your last comments, and I will raise the $$ amount. But I want to be in future when I do have other questions about my Cadillac, that I get connected with you only. How do I do that: my e mail is gentintexas at yahoo.

LOL....I tossed the comment about Organic Chemistry in at the end for a bit of humor... I had just finished giving a big technical response, so I related it. I did take your mention of it as a compliment. I just find it amazing the way some people can process some types of info and not so much others. For example, Although fascinated by the subject, I failed Biology in HS because I just could not grasp the genetics portion of it...but in reality, I likely deal with things that are equally difficult on a daily basis...yet on a different level that my brain relates to better. I should have taken physics, actually...I have a great understanding of the principals, and apply many of them in my racecar design and setups which I am quite successful with. Maybe I should go back to school...After all, I am out of work right now...

Back to the car. I enjoy elaborating on the details because I helps my own brain as well. I don't "copy and paste" my answers, but instead, I work through them in a process based pattern which really keeps my own mental capacity focused. Or perhaps I'm just trying to spend more typing instead of getting up to do household chores...

So...1) Yes.Put that knock module in there, and yes it is as easy as I described. there is only one removable access cover on the PCM, and the module is right under there.

2) Price out the knock sensors for now...they are on the side of the engine block, so it is something that you could also change yourself...But on the otherhand, I stil think this code can be set by the fact that your engine is knocking all the time. It might be triggering the code just because it thinks there is a problem with the sensor.

3)This is the most experimental of all my suggestions. If you do this, you are correct, don't waste the Lucas only do drain it out a week later. Simply use a cleaner right before you drain out the 20w50 oil, then use the absolute cheapest oil you can find while you are changing it every week. use the absolute cheapest filters too. (Wix makes the best filters, but use cheapies during the cleaning).

4) Yes. Continue this process for at least 3-4 tankfuls, and then re-evaluate the pinging and oil. You will always be checking the oil for signs of dilution (color is not an issue). By checking it more often, you will also get a better idea of what it is supposed to feel like between your fingers. Check it while it is hot because it will always feel fine when it is cold.

5) Yes. maybe sooner. You need to do whatever is necessary to make sure that the engine is firing on all 8 and using up every molecule of fuel. So pay attention to even the slightest missing, and take care of it immediately if it occurs.

And on the timing chain and gears. Not a bad idea at all, but unless there is a problem for sure, save on labor by waiting until the next time the Water pump has to come off for another reason. You will benefit from the new chain, but I don't think it's important enough to treat it as a critical item right now.

Don't forget to also review your records for things like the Fuel Filter and PCV valve. (only use ACDelco for the PCV valve)

Print this all out of course, so you can refer back to it. This stuff will take a few weeks or a couple of months to do, so you will want to refer back later to review the Octane recommendations and what not.

In the future, you can look me up here and ask direct questions to me. I can help with other things to give you more power once these problems are resolved, or whatever you need.

Mike

P.S. Pick up a bottle of Lucas for your transmission as well. But don't overfill the trans. You'll have to add it in during a trans fluid change, or possibly find a way to suck a quart out of the dipstick tube.

Mad-Mike
Mad-Mike, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Cadillac
Satisfied Customers: 258
Experience: 10 yrs GM dealership experience servicing all GM models. 20 years total experience as a Technician o
Verified
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Mike, I feel for sure I am got my money's worth, the best I have ever got, and I will raise the funds upon acceptance. My last question, on the Cadillac and a question on my old van. I mentioned to you in earlier dialog that the oil drips (few drops a day) from front of engine, seems coming from behind water pump. I think it seems less of a drip with the heavy wt oil. Do you think it is worth getting into it to repair a seal, or just leave alone for now. Question about the Van: I have 1987 chevy van, with 5.0L (ZNL type) engine, that does not even consume excess oil, and drives like a scolded dog, and I can get up to 80 mph in just a few seconds. I have never flushed the oil, and the last time I got it tuned was over 10 years ago, but it sure starts on first attempt and instantly drives away almost like a new van. To keep it going at top performance is there anything I can do to improve its performance, i.e. LT1 or LT2 addition , or any suggestions. I thank you so much for all your responses.

On the oil drip- Take a good look at the distributor and ignition (spark plug wires) behind the water pump. If any of these items are getting soaked with oil, then you should get it fixed. The leak may be from the crank seal, or from the water pump drive that comes out of the timing chain. A leak from either of those items would be a great reason to replace the timing chain at the same time. Also, leaks from the cranbk seal or water pump seal would leak more while the engine is running, so if it is all over the distributor and wires, then it is probably leaking a lot more out while you are driving.

If the leak is from the front of the oil pan seal, then it may be a little more benign. But it can still be thrown up on the distributor by the fans and wind....You just don't want your expensive distributor to be ruined by oil spray. Same with the plug wires.

On the van... A tune-up is going to be important, and make sure the fuel filter is replaced. I can't remember if that one is Carbureted (fuel filter in carb inlet) or if it is the early throttle body injection (fuel filter in on fuel line). After 10 years, you will want to replace the spark plugs, cap and rotor, and the plug wires (if they look at all worn, or have corrosion in the terminals.

You can upgrade the Van to a more modern platinum spark plug if you like. A parts store can help you with that. On vans, where it is difficult to replace the plugs, I'd prefer doing it less often....so Platinum plugs will accomplish that.

Since the Van isn't as much "computerized" as the Fleetwood, you won't get that "viscious cycle" of making the problem worse because the computer is trying to over-adjust for a problem, but a misfire will still cause problems. And incomplete combustion will still dilute the oil, which will increase internal engine wear because the oil will break down before 3000 miles.

I wouldn't worry about any engine flushing or anything on the van, but it's optional. Just keep changing the oil every 3000. Since it's older, I also recommend the Lucas in the engine and Trans, but it isn't burning oil so run the same weight you have been in the engine, just add the Lucas.

One thing about Lucas I like to do when putting it in, is either leave it upside down in the engine for an hour or so after I pour it in, or tip it upside down into a bottle of motor oil. A lot of it sticks to the side of the bottle, and I don't like to throw it away.

Mike

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Thank you, ***** ***** have already accepted your response and added a bonus to original $9 to bring it up to $20. It is all your money.
thank you,
Sam

Thank you! I'll leave this open for another day incase you run into any issues or confusions...

Mike

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Thank you, ***** ***** leave it open for that exact reason.
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I get a 2011 Cadillac DTS, After replacing the water pump
Hi I get a 2011 Cadillac DTS , After replacing the water pump the car won't crank any more. There is no gear indicator light, and shifter won't move. All fuses are good, all the grounds at the engine … read more
Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton
Cadillac Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
1,569 satisfied customers
I changed the water pump but can't replace the nelt. 04
I changed the water pump but can't replace the nelt … read more
Todd M
Todd M
Owner
ASE Certification
1,299 satisfied customers
I just changed the fuel filter on my 2009 cadillac sts, now
I just changed the fuel filter on my 2009 cadillac sts, now it won't start, it just clicks … read more
Mechanic01
Mechanic01
1,164 satisfied customers
I have a repair shop in GA. We replaced the water pump and
Hello, I have a repair shop in GA. We replaced the water pump and crossover manifold gaskets on a 02 Deville in June. The customer reversed the credit card charges yesterday. We did the water pump, th… read more
Todd M
Todd M
Owner
ASE Certification
1,299 satisfied customers
I have changed water pump ,thermastat,radiater andthere is
i have changed water pump ,thermastat,radiater andthere is no water in my oil but the motorisstill overheating … read more
Marvin the Mechanic
Marvin the Mechanic
82 satisfied customers
I have 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood brougham. My issue is sunroof
I have 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood brougham. My issue is sunroof not opening and and now not closing fully air sound while driving. When I push the switch Button I head motor sound but no moving. So I nee… read more
Shawn Few
Shawn Few
AS
64 satisfied customers
Overheating i changed the radiator thermostat and water pump
Overheating i changed the radiator thermostat and water pump it only seems to happen when on thruway … read more
rpmdiag
rpmdiag
High school
7,117 satisfied customers
Have a 1995 fleetwood brougham need to know where the
have a 1995 fleetwood brougham need to know where the instrument cluster relay is located … read more
David Craig
David Craig
OWNER/MECHANIC
Associates
3,943 satisfied customers
I have a 1985 Fleetwood Brougham with 20,000miles.After
I have a 1985 Fleetwood Brougham with 20,000miles.After about 15 to 20 miles it starts to flutter or miss. There are noises or knocks. Just a flutter that can go away at acceleration but back at even … read more
roy
roy
Associate Degree
3 satisfied customers
Have a 05 srx with Northstar 4.6 Replacing timing chains and
Have a 05 srx with Northstar 4.6 Replacing timing chains and guides due to them being wore out. Going back together and primary chain is lined up correctly to idler sprocket. Engine was tdc #1. Puttin… read more
Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose)
Cadillac Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade School
734 satisfied customers
Engine is Locked up. Could this be because of timing chains?
Engine is Locked up. Could this be because of timing chains? … read more
Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose)
Cadillac Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade School
734 satisfied customers
My mom haS a 95 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham I bought for her
My mom haS a 95 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham I bought for her several years ago. At times it wont start unless you wait till passcode fail light goes off 2 to 3 times and maybe not then. The mechanic s… read more
david carrier
david carrier
86 satisfied customers
Have a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. Interior lights
Have a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. Interior lights will not come on when opening doors or turning headlight switch. They all have power; the lights above the doors will turn on individually with… read more
Pete
Pete
Independent Auto Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
138 satisfied customers
Have a 1995 fleetwood brougham. Passcode system failure at
Have a 1995 fleetwood brougham. Passcode system failure at times. I want to bypass this system. How do I do this? I was told to remove ignition lock cylinder plug it up put key in and turn to on posit… read more
Don - Mo Lurch
Don - Mo Lurch
Cadillac Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
688 satisfied customers
Second opinion] - Have a 1995 fleetwood brougham. Passcode
Second opinion] - Have a 1995 fleetwood brougham. Passcode system failure at times. I want to bypass this system. How do I do this? I was told to remove ignition lock cylinder plug it up put key in an… read more
Pete
Pete
Independent Auto Technician
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
138 satisfied customers
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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

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