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Need to install a new Throttle Linkage Kit by wednesday. I…

Need to install a...

Need to install a new Throttle Linkage Kit by wednesday. I have the kit, and understand what the end result should look like but a step by step would be helpful

Mechanic's Assistant: Sometimes things that you think will be really complicated end up being easy to fix. The Marine Mechanic I'm going to connect you with knows all the tricks and shortcuts. Tell me a bit more about what's going on so the Marine Mechanic can help you best.

I snapped the throttle cable

Mechanic's Assistant: Is there anything else important you think the Marine Mechanic should know?

Merc 25 91 or 92 model tiller shift

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Answered in 5 minutes by:
1/15/2018
Charles
Charles, Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4,086
Experience: US Navy (Ret) Certified Mercury Marine Tech with over a decade of repair experience.
Verified

Hello, my name is***** will assist you.

Do you have a part number for the kit?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Standby

Ok

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
432421

That comes up as just a cable, it that all that you need to replace?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
its the throttle cables... yes, need a step by step
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
they also shift the gear into R N F

Ok, have you removed anything yet?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
No, I'm sitting at work right now
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I have removed the tiller handle before.. but put it back... it looks extremely tough to get the heads on the ends of the cable wrapped around the wheel.
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I'm also concerned about getting the cables backwards, (forward is reverse, etc)

The most difficult part is getting the cables around the wheel on the engine. The one on the tiller is done first, then the cables are inserted into the mount, the tiller reinstalled, and then connected to the engine.

It is really hard to get them backwards, but if it is done, all that is needed to fix it is to reverse them in the mounting brackets on the engine.

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When will you be by the engine?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
around 6 pm CST

I can talk you thru it then if you wish

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
yea that'd be great
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
any specific tools i might need handy?

Metric sockets and wrenches. Needlenose pliers, and maybe a band-aid or 2.

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8 and 10mm on the sockets and wrenches

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Got it.

Great. Talk to you then.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Getting tools together and need to pull the old throttle out first I guess

You will need to disconnect the kill switch on the tiller handle and then pull the tiller handle off the engine.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
opened up tiller at its base... seems like one continuous wire

There should be 2 wires in there. One is throttle, the other is shift. Unless this is a side shift model.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
correctbut the kill switch wires are keeping the tiller from entirely detaching from the motor

Ypu will need to remove bolt 10 and bracket 20 to pull the end of the throttle arm of the tiller down.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/25%2C%2025%20SEA%20PRO%2C%20SUPER%2015%20%282%20CYL.%29/0G760300%20THRU%200T979999/Tiller%20Handle%20Assembly/parts.html

That is why I wrote to disconnect them. They go to quick connect plugs and possible a ground lug on the left hand side of the engine.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I don't have that... doesn't seem like my arm
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Serial is B296891
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
now were talkin
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I've taken 10 off

Ok, the wires still go to the left side. Do you have the end case 10 split?

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With 10 split you should be able to remove the cable from the end.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Or I've taken 11 bolts off and and left side of 10 off
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Both throttle cables removed but the electrical wires are just continuous into the engine housing

With those off, you should be able to move the tiller arm out away from the bracket

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You should be able to leave the wires on.

Do you have the lock nuts loosened on the cable end near the throttle hook up?

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In that lost pic, loosen those 2 10mm nuts to get the cables free so you can remove them from the spool.

You will also need to remove the bracket cover on the side of the engine where the cables go thru

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That cover where the cable go thru it. Then you can pull them free

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Connect the new cable to the engine end. If you had a newer engine, it would be the other end first.

Then route the cables following the kill wires to the tiller handle.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
but confused as to why that matters
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Okay so the other way from what you originally thought correct?

correct. It matters as it is simpler to with this tiller to connect the tiller end last.

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The 2 ends of the cables should be in separate holes in the cam there. One will wrap around and the other will go shorter.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Thoughts? Taking a 10 min break...it’s gonna be extremely hard to get the other end plugged in to the eye of the tiller base

That looks right.

Its not too tough since you can roll the handle to help get it aligned. Then push it back into place in the bracket.

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Ready to be a full time outboard tech?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Never thought about rolling the handle... sry had to put a 7 month old down
Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Back at it now... okay feeding the male head in to the tiller base

Not for good I hope..

Is the cable going to cooperate with you?

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Long cable to the front, short one to the rear. Wrap the long one around. This is where the needlenose may come in handy to assist the cable in geting to where it needs to be.

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Around the pulley grooves of the end of the tiller shaft.

Remember those nuts that are by the throttle cam. The inner one is an adjustment. Back off the outer nut, then run the inside nut toward the plate to adjust the slack from the cables.

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Place the tiller handle back into place first before adjusting those nuts on the cables.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’m so confused right now

The 4 nuts 11 in the diagram are used to adjust the cable slack after it is installed. Once you have the tiller handle back in place, then loosen the nut that is closest to the throttle cam on the engine of both cables. Then tighten the inner nut on the cable to adjust it. Once the cables are snug, tighten the outer nut back against the bracket.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/25%2C%2025%20SEA%20PRO%2C%20SUPER%2015%20%282%20CYL.%29/0B238464%20THRU%200G044026/Steering%20Handle%20Assembly%28Manual-Electric%20Handle%29/parts.html

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Ok I see, take the shorter one to the hole where the longer one currently is. And take the longer one around to the hole that the shorter one is currently in.

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This is on the tiller handle end of the cables.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Okay when I take the shorter one to the hole where the longer one is.... do I take around the bottom or top?

the top

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Uggh really frustrated I have the nuts all the way out and can’t get them to reach

Ok, on the tiller end, the long cable goes under and around the pulley.. correct?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’ve got a hole at 10:30 and a hole at 4:30

Is the tiller handle in the neutral spot?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It’s as close to neutral as I know... been painted over maybe the holes should be 12 and 6

Ok, top cable round to the 1030 hole, and the bottom to the 430. This will be easier if you loosen back up the adjyusting nuts on the engine end.

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You can center it by feel as to where the middle of the range is

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Okay if I do it like that I’ll Have tons of slack

Yes, this is to get them started. The cables should wrap around the throttle handle end, not go straight to the hole closest to the opening.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
Okay I got it on... its backwards... but I don’t think that will cause a loss of power

Shoot. The easiest way to swap it is on the engine side. Just swap the locations on the upper and lower control cables.

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It would be too difficult to drive with it backwards.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
I’ll worry about it if I cant get full throttle

You should be able to. You can check it with the engine off, just turn the flywheel slowly as you go to shift the engine. This will align the clutch with the gear and then allow you to throttle up. Watch the link arms on the side of the engine to see if they move fully.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
It looks fine... dude this was awesome... you were a great help

Glad to be of assistance to you. Now you have a day to ready the boat.

Charles
Charles, Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4,086
Experience: US Navy (Ret) Certified Mercury Marine Tech with over a decade of repair experience.
Verified
Charles and 87 other Boat Specialists are ready to help you
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Charles
Charles
Charles, Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4,086
4,086 Satisfied Customers
Experience: US Navy (Ret) Certified Mercury Marine Tech with over a decade of repair experience.

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