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Tan, MerCruiser Certified Technician
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 11052
Experience:  40 yrs. experience with complete engine repairs both inboard/outboard and MerCruiser Certified Technician.
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Regarding this issue - What was the outcome? The same exact

Customer Question

Regarding this issue - What was the outcome?
JA: Sometimes things that you think will be really complicated end up being easy to fix. The Marine Mechanic I'm going to connect you with knows all the tricks and shortcuts. Tell me a bit more about what's going on so the Marine Mechanic can help you best.
Customer: The same exact thing that is referrenced in the link in my post to you.
JA: Is there anything else the Marine Mechanic should be aware of?
Customer: Replaced everything fuel related and the same exact thing is happening that is referrenced in the link I posted in my initial message to you.
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Marine Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Boat
Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

Hello my name is ***** ***** am I speaking with?

What model number engine do you have?

How is it I can help you?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Dave from RI living in Clearwater.
I have the same exact issue as a previous Q&A which I have posted the link here and I'm looking for the final result.
Emptied fuel from tank, new lines, new pumps, new filters carbs are fine. Same exact issue as the person you conversed with in the link above. What is the final outcome of that conversation?
Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

I have no idea what the final outcome was, the customer never came back and updated me.

Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

Did you need help with your engine, or was your primary concern the results of that old thread?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I disconnected the yellow and black wire and push the pin out of the plug started the engine and it's still cut out
Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

I don't have any idea what you are talking about. Start from the top. What kind of problem are you having? What exactly is the engine doing, what symptoms does it have? When did this problem start? Have you ever personally seen this engine run correctly? How old is the fuel?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This link is the exact same problem I am having. had the engine running correctly. Emptied gas, new gas, stabilized. New water separator, All new fuel lines, new fuel pumps and filters. carbs are fine. Pulled the yellow and black wire as you stated in the link above and the engine still shut down.
Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

I'm not going to go back and re-read and entire 4 year old thread.

What kind of problem are you having?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have a 1999 25hp 3 cylinder johnson manual long shaft that im having a problem with. The engine starts up no issues and idles perfect but when I start going the engine dies as soon as I get up on plane. It doesnt sputter or slowly die it justs shuts right down. It starts right back up first pull no problem but will die out again once I get on plane. After this happens a few times it seems that the issue gets worse and then the engine has a little problem starting back up after its died and been restarted a few times. I just had the carb cleaned, the fuel filter and fuel lines replaced. I replaced the tank and hoses as well. I just cant figure this one out. ANy help?
Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

It sounds like the engine is starving for fuel. What you want to do is have a helper drive the boat while you pump the primer bulb over and over and force fuel to the engine. Is this something you can do and get back to me on? Also, have you tried running it on a portable fuel tank yet?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll go buy a portable tank and line to rule out internal fuel line/tank issues....stay tuned....good to have an extra around anyway.
Expert:  Jason replied 1 year ago.

You don't necessarily have to go out and buy a new tank. You can take the fuel line off the boats tank and stick it in the endofa jerry can and try running it like that. Let me know what happens with the test.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Bought new tank, new line, fresh oil and fresh gas.....still the same issue with cutting out when it gets a little warmer or slightly opening the throttle with the muffs on. Water pump pisses cool until it gets warmer but that's because it doesn't have full cold water intake. Installed new water pump correctly 3 months ago, used 4 times.
Expert:  Tan replied 1 year ago.

Hello. My name is Tan.

Lets try something different. We will need a tioming light to do this test. Connect the timing light to the top cylinder and run the boat when it acts up look at the flash of the timing light it should have a steady flash with no dead spots. If no misfire move to the next cylinder. Continue this test ton all cylinders. If you find a misfire move that cylinders ignition coil to a know good firing cylinder. Now retest. Did the misfire move? If yes then that coil is bad if the misfire is still on the same cylinder we have either a bad power pack or a bad timer base. To test the timer base you will need a DVA adapter to test output of the timer base on that cylinder. If timer base checks good then the power pack is bad.

Can you do these tests?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can do these tests. What you are trying to rule out is if we have a faulty coil, right? Even if we have one faulty coil it should not kill the engine. Even if you have 2 faulty coils, it will run very badly but the engine will probably still run. What I am experiencing is a total shut down of the motor, I wait 2-4 minutes and it starts back up again, like it reset's it self.....In my opinion, I've delt with faulty stators and I don't think that is the problem and I don't think the coils are the problem either, I think it's the power pack, your thoughts?
Expert:  Tan replied 1 year ago.

The engine completely shutting down could be power pack or stator. The temperature will affect both. The timing light will tells us if it is a spark issue more than anything.

If we are loosing spark on all cylinders it is either the stop circuit, stator or the power pack. You have eliminated the black/yellow of the circuit. Leaving the stator or power pack. The only way to be sure it isn't the stator is to connect the DVA adapter in line on the brow and brow/yellow wire and watch the meter when running the engine.

I agree it is most likely the power pack but I like to verify.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Gotcha, makes sense.....stay tuned...
Expert:  Tan replied 1 year ago.

Ok your DVA reading should be 150-400 peak volts.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok thank you!
Expert:  Tan replied 1 year ago.

Your welcome.

Please don't forget to positively rate my help as that is the only way I get credit for helping you.

Follow up questions are always welcome at no extra charge on this subject.

Thank you.........Tan