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Hello my name is ***** ***** am I speaking with?
Who makes the engine? Is it a Mercruser, Volvo, or something else? Can I get the model or serial number on it so I know exactly what you have.
Is the engine Carbureted, EFI/Throttle body, or MPI?
I'm here, sorry . We offer phone service as well and I was on the phone with another customer.
The fume detector will have nothing to do with the engine.
Has this engine ever been any different for you in the past? How long have you owned it? When was the last time it started correctly?
When was the last time the engine had a full tune up? That would be new cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, all filter?
Okay. I guess my next question is what are your questions to me? I don't know exactly what you have for an engine, and that would be helpful to know. How is it I can help you?
I think I am misunderstanding you. When you say ". it seems to take repeated tries to get it to crack over"
When you turn the key to start, is it cranking over but not starting? Or is it not cranking over at all, as In totally dead?
Okay that is a different story. Have you tried holding the key to start while wiggling the shifter handle with your other hand at the same time?
Do you hear any clicking from the engine when you turn the key to start?
The flow of power for the start circuit on this engine starts at the battery, runs through a main fuse mounted to the starter, then up to the breaker, then up the harness to the key switch, from there it leaves the key switch and runs down to the neutral switch inside of the shifter, and then back down to the engine where it activates the slave solenoid, which in turn provides power to the starter solenoid.
If you turn the key to run, and the gauges power up, there is power to the keyswitch........
So the problem lays between the key switch and the slave solenoid. What we do in the shop is check voltage on of the yellow/red wire that comes out of the key switch when the switch is held to start. If there is no power, the key switch is bad. If there is power, we move down to the slave solenoid and check for power there. If there is no power, the neutral safety switch inside if the shifter is bad, and not allowing power to make it from the key switch to the slave solenoid. If there is power at the slave solenoid, and if the engine is not starting, the slave solenoid is bad.
Does that all make sense to you?
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