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Jeff G.
Jeff G., Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4726
Experience:  42 years experience, Certified Master Technician, All Major Outboards, Sterndrives, Hi-Performance
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I have a 90 HP Ficht Ram evinrude engine 2001, that is not

Customer Question

hi
JA: Hello. How can we be of help?
Customer: I have a 90 HP Ficht Ram evinrude engine 2001
JA: Sometimes things that you think will be really complicated end up being easy to fix. The Marine Mechanic I'm going to connect you with knows all the tricks and shortcuts. Tell me a bit more about what's going on so the Marine Mechanic can help you best.
Customer: that is not working properly
JA: Is there anything else the Marine Mechanic should be aware of?
Customer: I can give you the full details if you hold on a bit
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Marine Mechanic about your situation and connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Boat
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
My engine is a Evinrude FICHT RAM 90 HP engine - 2001 -E90 FSLSIF serial no. G 04900587And it would turn 5250 RPM nicely at full throttle. I took it out of the sea in Jan and flushed it with freshwater. It has generally run well and I have never had any major problems except once at sea the trim/tilt lifted the engine out of the water while it was running. I switched everything off (master switch for boat) and then turned it on and it started again and got me home.I replaced the trim/tilt switch on the engine and that seemed to cure that problem.I recently put the boat in the water and found it would not go above 4700 rpm - and the top speed went from 29kts to 23kts.I replaced the fuel/oil filter on the engine (it did have water in it) and replaced an additional pre-filter and checked that the fuel bulb etc was not sucking air.I replaced the old plugs - which where very carbonized and one had a lot of rust on it. The replacement plugs are not brand new but I don't have any at present and live in Africa so spares are hard to get, but they are the correct ones and look to be in good condition.The engine runs much soother but still does not go up above 5000 rpm and top speed now 25-26kts
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I decided to take the boat fishing - it spends a lot of time trolling at 2600 RPM - and half way through the day I got a warning light come on on the RPM gauge - it is the warning with a ! in it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Any ideas where I go with this?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I do have the diagnostic software but have never used it as it looks very complicated to me!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have an identical spare engine and can switch parts etc if need be to try and isolate the problem
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

First thing we need to take another fuel sample.

The rust on the spark plug, was it just one plug?

Did you index the spark plugs when you replaced them?

The software is not hard to use but you should have the diagnostic manual that came with it. Do you have the cable to the engine from your laptop?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the rust was on the head of only one plug; but all the plugs were looking pretty worn and carbonised and it does run much smoother with the new ones - you could hear it missing before.We have also discovered that one of the butterfly valves controlling the air was clogged up and we have cleaned this out.What do u mean by a fuel sample?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have all the things needed - I believe to use the diagnostic software - except that it is on a disc that includes software for all bombardier products and so I don't know where to start with using it on this engine.Thanks
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Install the software. Connect the cable to the engine, turn engine to on and see what the software says. You can't hurt anything. Just don't re-map anything. the software will walk you through. What we want is to look at the faults.

By fuel sample I mean to put about 1 qt of fuel in a jar. let it sit and see if any water separates.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok - I am not near the boat for a week or so - but will try that when I get there; it is software on a cd - will I need to download it onto the computer first or will it just run directly?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Download it to the desktop, open it and install. Actually works easy.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Jeff - I am sorry I haven't been in touch we are still struggling to get this evinrude diagnostics up and running - I may have been sent a faulty Usb to serial port that means the computer is not recognising when the engine is plugged in; we are working on this and I will let u know when/ if I can get it to work. If not could you suggest where I can purchase the diagnostic software?I did find that because of water in the fuel/ water separator there was some corrosion on the butterfly valves that let the air into the engine; we also put new plugs and the engine seemed to be running great but would then suddenly start cutting out at high revs ...Now it won't even start.I am beginning to think there is some electrical short issue between the control box and the engine because I have 2 identical engines and both seem to do this when connected to the same control box.And ideas?Is it true that these engines should never be disconnected from their battery's as this resets the computers memory?Best wishes
Tom
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

You could have a problem with the key switch, but not the control box. Disconnecting the battery won't reset the computer. It there is a hard code it will be in the memory.

You can get the software and cable from your Evinrude dealer or even off ebay.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok I think we have made progress with a new cable
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This is the diagnostics now
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
also this - please advise how I proceed from here
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

You have water in the fuel. Remove the engine cowls and then the lower cowls. Once removed you will have access to the high pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine. next to the pump is a chamber that holds fuel. remove the bottom most fitting. On yours it should push in on the band and then the fitting pulls off. Don't force it or you have an expensive repair. Drain all the fuel and with the primer bulb squeeze it until only fresh fuel comes out. replace the fitting and see how the engine does. Replace all the boat and engine filters.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Have replaced all the filters - which did have water in them. Engine ran much better but put it in water for a test and it would run great then loose all power; then not start well; got back to dock and took it out; now won't start at all; are u sure it is water in the fuel; we checked that fuel pump.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Will do as you suggested; are there any other likely faults u can see - what is the low oil warning
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
If there is an electrical issue would the diagnostics pick it up? Can you see any other major issues?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Could the engine refusing to start be a result of it going into slow mode?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

If you look at the column LAST that is the last time in hours the fault occurred. Low oil was 200 hours ago. Water in fuel was 1741 hours, the most recent since the total time is 1744 hours. Not saying it isn't electrical, but the faults point to fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pump pressure?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No I don't - but I am sure I could get one if nevessary. Let me check your first suggestion.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok - have drained the fuel and no sign of water.On the second image I sent u there is an oil warning - did u see that?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok I am getting somewhere - when I put the high pressure pump on the other engine I can hear it turning/ pumping when I turn the ignition key; on the other engine I hear nothing.I have measured the voltage at the plug that clips into the pump and it is zero.Let me know the next ste
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok more progress - we have found that there isn't any oil coming out of the oil/ fuel mixer that sits behind the fuel filter; could this be inducing a low oil warning that is telling the high pressure fuel pump not to work?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Can't we any broken or corroded wires, but there is a click somewhere that sounds like a relay but fuel pump still not engaging
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

If you look at the column LAST that is the last time in hours the fault occurred. Low oil was 200 hours ago. Water in fuel was 1741 hours, the most recent since the total time is 1744 hours. Not saying it isn't electrical, but the faults point to fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pump pressure?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Jeff - like I said - pump won't turn on at all; but it does when switched to the other engine. Therefore I am assuming that the pump is working fine but there is some problem that means that it is not getting and current to even start when attached to the "broken " engine
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We have checked all the fuel and there is no water - please let me know what to check next? Thank you
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

OK couple things. On the side of the motor is the PDP, the fuse box. Remove the screws and take off the cover. Check all the fuses first.

Check the pump again. If still not running then remove the two trim relays, they are to the right, and then the two relays to the left. Swap them. Check the trim up and down. If the trim works up and down the relays are good. recheck the pump.

There is another larger main relay a couple inches back and on top of the engine. make sure this is working by using a test light with the relay pulled back just enough to get a reading.

The fuel pump should get 12 volts with the key turned ON, at least for a few seconds. Then you will lose the ground as the computer puts a ground on the pump to activate it. So you need to check for that as well.

Let me know.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No twelve volts and have switched all relays with the working engine - therefore assume that they are all good
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Did you check the fuses? There is a 20 amp inline fuse as well. Main relay?

Check on wire J on the PDP, purple/white wire with key on. Use a probe to take a voltage test. What are your results?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can only find two other relays towards rear of engine
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can't find a single relay on its own. All fuses are ok.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Also struggling to find purple white wire J ... Any pointers?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
If it is easier I can call you and we talk it through. Thanks very much for your help so far. This is frustrating.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Could I cause damage by switching the ecu with the other engine?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
These are the only other relays I can find
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
These are the only purple and white wires I can find
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Purple/white wire goes into the PDP on the left, there is a small J next to the wire, it's where the harness wires all go, a row of them. I'm on the road for a few hours, can do a phone deal then?

You can't damage anything but the engine will not run correctly, the EMM is programmed for your injectors.

Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

The PDP where the fuses are.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It is 9 hrs ahead here so a call prob won't work; did u get my pics
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This is what I can see going into the pdp - can't find a j - am I looking in the right place? How do I test - with it unscrewed?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can find a j but it's not purple/ black. Is it this red one?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
That red wire give 12.35 volts when ignition on and zero when off
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Purple wire L gives 11.14 when ignition on and zero when off
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The other red wire N also giving 12.35
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This relay makes a click noise when the ignition switch turned and both red wires read 12.35 volts
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This is one of the other two relays I can find
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It was cranking before but not starting - now won't even crank; could there be something wrong with the control box/ ignition switch?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
now the diagnostic software won't even pick it up any more; but it will on the other engine
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the other engine cranks on the same control box so I guess that can't be the problem
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

The PDP where the fuses are. Did you swap the two relays? The one in your hand? what happens? It is appearing either the EMM is defective or a fault in the engine's wiring.

Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

J should be a purple/white. Or is it a purple? Can you take a picture of your PDP?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Are u not getting all the pictures I am sending?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I feel like I am being pretty thorough and you aren't following me threads but if that's because u aren't getting all the pics I am sending I would understand
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Last picture I got was you holding the relay.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Did u get this pic earlier - I can't find a purple j wire ... But can find this.... Is this what u wanted me to measure voltage onRead my earlier responses about the voltages I am getting...
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I swapped those relays and the result is the same. They click but that is all. I get 12.5 volts on the red wires when ignition switch turned on but none coming to fuel pump. Relay makes a clicking noise
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

No that is the harness into the EMM. I need you to check the voltage going into the PDP, where the fuses are.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Jeff - either I am being really dumb or I don't understand - here is an image of what I am looking at - what you I think you mean by the "PDP with the fuses".... Am I looking at the correct thing? If so let me know what u want measured.Any chance we can talk on the phone? Thanks for your help so far
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can't find anything else with fuses...
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

OK that's the PDP. Check the bottom left fuse, that is the fuse to the fuel pump. There is also a 20 amp inline fuse outside the PDP to the left, check that.

On the top wiring connector, you have a red, white, purple, white, black, red. Follow that black wire and see if it connects to a fuse and a purple/white stripe wire. That is the one you want to make sure the 20 amp fuse is good on and you have voltage out when the key is turned to ON. Take a paper clip straighten one end and gently but firmly push it in until it bottoms out. Use the paper clip to measure your + voltage coming from the PDP. That circuit is what turns your fuel pump on.

Also make absolute certain the emergency kill switch is working and connected.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
What/where is the emergency kill switch located and how do I test that?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

It's the lanyard on the key switch.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Oh - doesn't have one of those!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This is where I have got to... Black wire to 20 amp fuse ... See picture... Fuse ok ... Can't figure out where black wire goes to as all wrapped up so I have sent a few options ... Tell me where to measure based on next 3 pictures ...
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This is a purple and white going into ecu
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the other pic is the wire going straight into the fuel pump
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

That motor should definitely have a kill switch.

You have 12 volts at the 20 amp fuse with the key turned on?

Now go to the electric pump, there is a connector about 4" from the pump. Check on the engine side of the connector for + and - voltage with the key turned on.

With the diagnostic software connected and reading there is a test to test the fuel pump. Activate this test with the connector connected. What do you get?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
There is no voltage coming to the connector by the pump; all else is ok
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

On the PDP the bottom set of wires there is a purple/black in the B position. Check for voltage there with key on. Keep in mind the EMM only turns the fuel pump on for a few seconds. If you are turning the key on or leaving it on and then trying to do a voltage test it won't read any voltage. Have a helper turn the key on or use the software.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Jeff - the battery voltage is 12.33v and 12.21 going to 20 amp fuse.There is 0.89 v on other side of 20 amp fuse; should this residual voltage be here?We have tested the connectivity of the purple and black wire B and it is intact to where it goes into the fuel pump (ie. Not a broken wire problem).Another thing we have tested is the solenoid that goes to the starter. I think there is something not right here.If we "jump" the battery cable the starter cranks; but there seems to be no power coming to it when ignition turned on; so it is not allowing current through to crank the starter.Have switched solenoid with other engine and this has same issue, so it's not a faulty solenoid it is some other problem.Also we cannot get the diagnostics to work - it now won't even pic up the emm; but again the diagnostics works on the other engine.Do you have a number I can call you on as I think this would really help us both resolve this issue faster - I have a ton of questions and I know that you are trying to go through this in a logical manner but I think if we talk we can get to the crux of the issue faster and I can better give you some history which may help you understand the problem better.
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

It would appear the wiring harness or key switch is bad. When the key is turned ON voltage flows through that 20 amp fuse. If you aren't getting voltage through the fuse it is bad.

On the start solenoid you have two large and two small terminals. One of the large terminals goes to the battery and has 12 volts all the time, unless you have a batteru off/on switch in the boat. This is where the key switch gets voltage. It is sent to the key switch and then when the key is turned ON back to the engine through the purple wire. When the key is turned to start it sends voltage to the yellow/red wire to one of the small terminals on the solenoid, the other is a ground. This activates the starter solonoid and sends battery voltage to the starter.

If you can't get the diagnostics to connect, and the engine won't turn over, and the fuel pump doesn't turn on then you have a problem in the wiring harness, it's connectors or the key switch. Check the connectors under the dash carefully. Same with the connectors at the engine, unplug them, make sure they are clean and then plug everything back up and see what you find.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
One other thing to add - we switched the emm onto the other engine and it connected right up to the diagnostics. We put the other emm on this engine and it would not start; so assuming emm is ok.Also - using the same wiring harness/ key switch and everything we can get the other engine to crack and start - which makes me think that this means that it is ok?Should there not be 12 v coming to one of the small terminals on the solenoid when the key turned on?Is this residual voltage a sign of some short or something somewhere?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

It would appear the wiring harness or key switch is bad. When the key is turned ON voltage flows through that 20 amp fuse. If you aren't getting voltage through the fuse it is bad.

On the start solenoid you have two large and two small terminals. One of the large terminals goes to the battery and has 12 volts all the time, unless you have a batteru off/on switch in the boat. This is where the key switch gets voltage. It is sent to the key switch and then when the key is turned ON back to the engine through the purple wire. When the key is turned to start it sends voltage to the yellow/red wire to one of the small terminals on the solenoid, the other is a ground. This activates the starter solonoid and sends battery voltage to the starter.

If you can't get the diagnostics to connect, and the engine won't turn over, and the fuel pump doesn't turn on then you have a problem in the wiring harness, it's connectors or the key switch. Check the connectors under the dash carefully. Same with the connectors at the engine, unplug them, make sure they are clean and then plug everything back up and see what you find.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We ended up switching the pdp on the bad engine with the good one as I couldn't find anything else that might have been causing no power to the solenoid.The engine now cranks and the emm comes on; diagnostics has an oil warning; but in the bottom of the screen there is also a warning about a blue wire at 10 on the emm.I am in the process of switching the entire wiring loam around as I don't want there to be one issue that then caused a second one - remember I said that before the diagnostics was picking up the emm and the engine was cranking - so I was thinking maybe some short has led to the pdp breaking and rather than risk breaking another one I switching the loams.Does any of this help shed light on a possible problem?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Inside the PDP are a number of solder joints. It is not uncommon for the PDP to go bad and the wiring to be OK. What is strange is you getting some of the readings you got with a bad PDP. I'd go ahead and just replace the PDP and not the wiring.

Not sure about the blue wire at 10 can you send me a screen shot?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I don't know what is going on - changed pdp and wiring loam- engine will now start but not run very well.... And diagnostics is not picking up the emm so can't send u a screen shot. There is now a red warning light on the rpm Guage - see picture
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
But it does crank and the fuel pump is now working; what could cause the emm to not connect with the computer ( I don't think it is the emm as the same one talks to the computer when switched to the other engine). Could it be stator related?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We switch part no 586545 - don't know it is related but now the diagnostics switches on; here is the screen shot (see picture).Engine starts and then a warning beep comes on.How do I fix this error 34?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
another screen shot...
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

586545 does not come up as a good number.

Which EMM is on the engine? Using the diagnostic program clear all the codes in history.

On the second screen shot one thing that bothers me is the difference in the EMM temp and the engine temp, they should be close to the same. Remove the two water cooling hoses from the EMM and make absolutely sure the EMM is clean. Then reinstall the inlet hose. Take another hose and run it to the outlet side. Briefly start the engine and see is you get good flow out of the outlet. Shut engine down. Then reconnect the hose. There is a possibility that the EMM is running too hot or was previously damaged from overheating.

You need to check every connection, every pin on the engine. Something is not connecting properly. Also recheck the previous voltage checks I gave you. Don't do any more than what I specified, we don't want to get confused.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have looked at all the connections - they seem fine - should I sand paper them lightly or something? Remember it is a different loam and the bad connection is still there.Voltages also seem good.I can blow through both emm's and water comes out when engine running.I also re-tested with the emm from engine no 2 and I still get the same code 34 that I do from the original emm.We have switched oil pumps around and no difference; but when we cleaned one out (there was quite a lot of gunk in it) the red warning light on the rpm Guage went away for a while; but soon came back.The code on the computer remained the same; and it didn't matter which emm - so kinda thinking it's not an emm problem?Engine runs but very rough and won't idle and back fires a lot.Will attach screen shots of both EMMs but with the original one Second (the higher hrs one)
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok first 2 are emm from other engine; last 1 is this engines emm
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

34 is an oil pump failure. The engine will not run properly and is the the SAFE mode.

Check for voltage on the #1 fuse, check voltage at white/blue wire at oil injector. no voltage suspect the PDP, again. You can try to activate the oil injector with the software, it should click.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Could you explain which is the no 1 fuse?Will check voltage now and revert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can't find a white blue wire at oil injector - do u mean here
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The voltage with key on is .11 v; if we crank it goes to 11.9v.Can't get oil pump to do anything with the diagnostics
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Check the voltage at terminal G from the PDP, white/blue. If you can't get the oil pump to do anything and there is voltage the pump may be bad. If no voltage, the PDP. #1 is on the PDP.

Ck voltage at terminal 10 blue wire out of the EMM with the connector connected, use a paper clip to probe alongside the wire. You should have battery voltage.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
In attempting to check voltage at terminal G we have managed to get 12 v going to the oil pump.We ran it through the diagnostics and it worked. No oil warning had gone away and engine starts.No new warnings on diagnostics.Engine sounds ok but won't idle for long.In trying to retest voltage, we managed to know something and no oil warning came back.Ran your tests again and now engine starts - so must be some bad connection - but seems like such a coincidence as it is a different wiring loam and pdp from initial faults.Any suggestions how we isolate where problem is?Because it is intermittent it is hard to tell if when u switch a component u fix a problem or just jiggle a loose wire somewhere!!Thinking of putting original PDP back in or switching back to original wiring loam and seeing what happens?What do you suggest?Could the bad idle be related to this?Would you recommend buying a brand new wiring loam on an engine of this age?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

I haven't had to replace a wiring harness. I have had to replace a stack of PDP's. You can use an ohm meter to check each wire one at a time, move it around etc. and see if it is bad. The PDP you just replace. So I would test the harness, replace the PDP.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Engine starts fine and sounds good when revved; no warnings on diagnostics anymore - but it will not idle - it ticks along fine for a bit and the turns off.Have checked the throttle position sensor on the diagnostics and the voltage goes up as the revs go up - so assume it's working ok.Any ideas where to start tinkering?If it was something major surely the diagnostics would pick up on it?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Video Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

I can't do video calls, not set up for it.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on the output and watch the fuel pressure while monitoring the voltage. You can somewhat do it with the software. Also don't rev the engine in neutral over 2000 rpm. When the engine starts to stall, squeeze the primer bulb, see if the rpm picks up.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I don't have a pressure tester - is that vital?I have tried pumping bulb as about to die and it makes no difference.What damage can happen by revving engine too high in neutral?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

A pressure tester will tell you if the engine is producing the correct amount of fuel pressure and sustaining it. Remember it is a fuel injected engine.

If you rev the engine too high you can damage the engine or even cause a "run away" condition. In neutral there is no load on the engine so everything runs "looser" and not held quite in place. In addition the engine being computer controlled won't be able to compensate properly. You need the lower unit in the water, in gear anything above a fast idle.

Have you taken a sample of your fuel and double checked for water? Did you replace the engine fuel filter behind the plastic air silencer?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am trying to get my hands on a pressure tester and then I will let you know. I have checked fuel and replaced the filters.I am beginning to think that the fuel pump may not be working properly - the new plugs foul very quickly and are oily and the engine backfires and wont idle - do these symptoms suggest not enough fuel getting to them?Unfortunately, this is the only component that I have the I can't switch with my other engine as I only have one working fuel pump. Interestingly the other engine behaves in a similar way and wont idle when I try to start it... (using this same fuel pump)...Any thoughts?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

The engine is very precise on the quantity of fuel, the pressure and duration, and the proper spark timing. If any one is not correct the engine won't run right. Why just one working pump? Also in addition to the electric pump there is a lift pump on the front of the engine. If it is leaking into the crankcase it will run very rough if at all and flood the engine. But since you are having the problem on both engines the pump is more likely.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok - when u turn the key the pressure is 20psi initially and drops to 13 quite quickly.We have not started the engine; just turned the ignition to turn pump on.Does this help?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Your fuel pressure should be 20 to 30 PSI so it is OK.

You didn't swap any injectors did you?

Have you checked the lift pump for leaks?

Remove it and squeeze the primer bulb.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Didn't switch any injectors.Are u not concerned that it drops to 13 psi?How do I check the lift pump for leaks?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Remove the lift pump, leave the hoses attached and squeeze the primer bulb.

I'm not that concerned about the drop of pressure with the engine off. Start it and run it and see where it goes.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The engine wasn't running - we just turned the ignition switch. Should we test with engine running?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It seems that there might be a leak in the lift pump - what's the next step
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Rebuild or replace the lift pump. Evinrude does not offer a rebuild kit only an expensive replacement. If you want to rebuild it get kit # ***** DO NOT change anything but the gaskets and diaphrams, DO NOT replace any valves or springs.

If you replace it you can do it in about 10 minutes.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Should I test the lift pump on my spare engine first and see if that one is broken too.Is this likely that both go on an engine this age?What other rebuild kits would you keep handy for an engine like this?Remember I live in East Africa - no evinrude dealers here!!
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

If it is leaking rebuild or replace it. The gaskets and rubber parts go bad. I would do both at the same time. I wouldn't bother swapping pumps.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
To be honest now having checked the hoses and everything, it seems the lift pump is fine and is taking fuel to the high pressure pump just fine.So... Let's say it is not the lift pump - where do we go next.Could the injectors be fowled or faulty? Any other suggestions. I feel like we are going round in circles!I appreciate your help with all this - and I figure right now at this rate I am either going to have to bin these engines or cough up some serious money to solve the problems.Or will there be some tiny stupid thing that I am missing?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

The Ficht engines were problematic from the start. There is no where else to go other than try cleaning out the engine with some Quickleen, Ring Free or Engine Tuner, depends on what you can get.

The lift pump either leaks or it doesn't. Even a tiny leak will put too much fuel into the engine and cause rough idling.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I would recommend getting an OEM service manual and going step by step through all the troubleshooting procedures and checks.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Surely if it was too much fuel then the plugs would not be oily?Can one clean the injectors? Do they have a filter of sorts in them?
Expert:  Jeff G. replied 1 year ago.

Do we know it is just oil or a mix with fuel. Plugs should be brown, those engines had problems with carbon build up.

We have some shops that can clean the injectors here in the US, I have no idea about over there. They are not user cleanable. They are indexed to a particular cylinder, don't mix them up.

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