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Did you happen to notice if there was an injector pulse when cranking the engine over?
The only part of the engine that controls both spark and injector pulse is the ignition module under the distributor cap. That provides both the signal for spark, and for injector pulse. If the injectors were pulsing, then we would get into checking voltages and checking resistances of the ignition coil. But because they are not pulsing, then what you would want to do is replace the ignition module. Does that make sense?
There are no time limits here. And you can post back at any time, before or after putting through the ratings.
You don't want to swap the modules. Yes you would need thermal grease, which you would have to get at an auto parts store. But It's also going to throw the starboard engine out of time. And is going to be a big pain in the butt to re-time it.
No you would need a marine module. The timing curves between the automotive modules and the marine modules are different. If you tried that it would not advance the timing enough, and the engine would struggle to make power. What you need is this one in this link.
The module from Mercury lists for 208. All 3 of your examples should be okay. But I don't dabble in aftermarket parts at all.
Did you get spark or fuel pulse back, or is there still no spark and fuel pulse? Also, did you use a Mercruiser part, or an automotive part?
Did you get a mercruiser part or automotive part?
Got it. Now it's going to be a process of measuring voltages and checking resitances with a volt meter. Is that something you are able to do? If yes, can you open up PDF files if I give you the instructions in that format?
If you remove the distributor cap and crank the engine over, is the rotor actually spinning?
Did you disconnect the tachometer?
This problem started just after changing the starter, nothing else in between?
You said you checked/changed the 3 fuses. Using your meter, do you show power into and out of those fuses?
Also, what is the voltage on the purple wire at the coil reading with the engine actually cranking over? (and not just key on)
Check the continuity of the plug wire between the ignition coil and distributor cap next just to make sure it's not a bad plug wire.
They just mean spark.
Not sure what you mean by that.
Did you follow the instructions I gave you in the Volvo troubleshooting guide to the letter? Go step by step?
When I help folks troubleshoot EST ignition systems I purposely gives them the Volvo instructions for troubleshooting it. The EST system is a GM system, made by GM. GM sells that system to Mercury, Volvo, and a few others. There are all sorts of manuals to get troubleshooting instructions out of. You can get them from Volvo, Mercury, PCM, straight from a GM manual and a few others. The Volvo way of troubleshooting this system is the easiest way to do it.
I'm assuming you don't have access to a lab scope/oscilloscope, so what I would recommend you do next is call around to places like auto zone and see if they have a special tool to check GM ignition modules. It's a tool some autoparts stores do have. And then take your new module and your old module down to them and get them tested to see if the are good or bad.
The way this system works is the ECM doesn't take over until after the engine has already started. So when cranking, you should still be getting spark even with a bad ECM.