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I have a 1975 Evinrude 135 hp. The problem is stalling when…

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I have a 1975 Evinrude...
I have a 1975 Evinrude 135 hp. The problem is stalling when I go to full throttle. I can back off the throttle and then feather it until engine recovers and it gain rpms. Then it takes off and runs great.

Recently
New plugs
new wires
Fuel pump, inline filter, canister filter, bulb and hoses. I did have some fuel line leaks... Read full answer
I have a 1975 Evinrude 135 hp. The problem is stalling when I go to full throttle. I can back off the throttle and then feather it until engine recovers and it gain rpms. Then it takes off and runs great.

Recently
New plugs
new wires
Fuel pump, inline filter, canister filter, bulb and hoses. I did have some fuel line leaks that I fixed an now have a solid bulb.

haven't done carbs yet. Looking forward to your suggestions! Thanks,
Greg
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Answered in 12 minutes by:
6/26/2012
Jeff G.
Jeff G., Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4,730
Experience: 42 years experience, Certified Master Technician, All Major Outboards, Sterndrives, Hi-Performance
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Welcome,this question may need more than a single answer. Please post back with additional questions on this at any time.

There are a few things that can cause a problem like yours, all fuel delivery.
If you are running a cannister type water separating fuel filter you don't need and shouldn't use another filter. Too many filters creates a higher restriction.

If you have a built in tank, remove the anti-siphon valve in the hose barb if equipped.

Basically remove any restrictions. If the fuel line is old, replace it.

You said you did something to the fuel pump. Did you replace it or rebuild it? The fuel pump must be capable of pulling enough fuel through to the engine. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, put it between the pump and carbs and see if you have good steady pressure.

Check the inlet needles in the carbs and the float levels. If the levels are off it will not allow enough fuel in the bowls to run properly at wide open throttle. Set the float level so the float is parallel with the carb body held upside down.

Try or check these and let me know what you find.
Thanks
Jeff G.
Jeff G., Marine Mechanic
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Hi Jeff,


 


I have finally got around to rebuilding the carbs. I followed your input above and have one question on the float adjustment.


 


I turned the carb body upside down and the float is definitely not parallel with the body. So do I use needle nose pliers and bend the metal tab that is connected to the front of the float?


 


Hesitant to damage the needle and seat by stressing this too much.


Thanks,


Greg

Greg you bend the tab that attaches to the float and touches the inlet needle. The small tab on the back side controls the drop, but you most likely won't have to worry and out that.
Also check that the carbs are not opening up too soon. If the carbs open before the timing is advanced enough then the engine will bog.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Jeff,


 


Good to go on the floats, they are parallel to the carb body--floats seem very close to parallel visually.


 


Can you help with some details on the timing settings? I knew this could be a potential contributor to the bogging. Any reference materials for checking this setting? Thanks,

There should be a timing decal on the engine with the wide open timing. You set this with the lower unit in the water, in gear. Just back the boat into the water until the lower unit is just covered.
Put an inductive timing light on the engine. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle arm. This way you can control the throttle from the engine. Put it in gear and briefly run it to full throttle just long enough to check the timing. If no one has messed with the timing it should be very close.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Hi Jeff,


 


Thanks for your previous reply above. After reinstalling the carbs a week ago, I attempted to start the engine this weekend. The motor cranks but there is absolutly no start, not even a sputter.


 


I wondered if the carbs, having no fuel in them, caused this.


The primer bulb is rock hard.


 


I checked the plugs and also the choke. ok


 


The rebuild of the carbs was mostly cleaning w carb cleaner. Could the floats be in upside down?


 


The motor does not sound like it will start?


 


Thanks,


Greg

The floats can't be installed upside down and adjusted correctly.
Remove the slotted plug from the side of the float bowl on each carb, squeeze the primer bulb and see if you get fuel coming out. Put paper towels under the carbs and dispose of them safely.
Jeff G.
Jeff G., Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4,730
Experience: 42 years experience, Certified Master Technician, All Major Outboards, Sterndrives, Hi-Performance
Verified
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Thanks Jeff.


 


Is the slotted plug the screw that covers each of the low speed orifices?


 


There's one on the side of each carb, 4 total.


 


Greg

They are down at the bottom and give you access to the HIGH speed jets. Only have to take one out per carb. You want to see if you are getting fuel into the carb.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Jeff,


 


I removed the high speed jets plugs on each carb and yes there was fuel!


 


Did not try to start the motor this morning though. Did a visual check of the wiring. I did not disconnect any wiring before working on the carbs but wanted to make sure.


 


What are your thoughts? Electrical issue?


Thanks,


Greg

If the carbs are full of fuel then lets do a spark test.
Get an inexpensive spark tester from any auto parts store. Set it at 7/16" and check spark on all 4 cylinders.
If no spark on all 4 then remove the black/yellow wire from the power pack, the ignition box with all the wires.
Retest.
Post back what you get.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Jeff,


 


I completed a spark test yesterday, and have spark at all 4 plugs.


 


My Stelloc manual leads to doing a Key switch test based on the above positive results.


 


However, the book recommends removing the No6 wire, the key wire, from the power pack but this wire is a ground wire on my engine.


 


What would you recommend? Greg

If you remove the black/yellow wire as I posted above that will isolate the key switch and the stop circuit. However if you have spark at all 4 cylinders then the stop circuit is not a problem.
Have you synchronized the engine as detailed in your service manual? If the carb opens too soon it will certainly bog.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

Jeff


If you remove the black/yellow wire as I posted above that will isolate the key switch and the stop circuit. However if you have spark at all 4 cylinders then the stop circuit is not a problem. Greg: I did remove the black yellow wire and did have spark!!



Have you synchronized the engine as detailed in your service manual? If the carb opens too soon it will certainly bog. Greg: I haven't been able to start the engine since rebuilding the carbs. I've been wanting to get on the water to check the performance.


 


Now that the black/yellow wire test is complete is the electrical question resovled. Engine cranks but will not start. Nothing happens when cranking. Thanks,


Greg

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